Graphite shaft question

[JPBayern]

My X-14's are fitted with Big Bertha Light Flex Graphite shafts - I bought them used at Golfsmith and as such didn't really have a choice as to what shaft style I wanted with my budget (paid ~$150 since I didn't want to blow hundreds if I found out I didn't enjoy golf...which clearly isn't an issue!). They hit well, but I wonder if some of the problem I'm having finding consistency among other things is due to the shaft flex. I'm a 6'2'' 195lb. young man and probably have a swing speed that exceeds optimal light flex shaft speed (while testing out hybrids at a fitting center I was told I swing in the low to mid 80s).

I'm sure that with the proper instruction I should be able to work around this, as well as try and "contain myself" from grip it and rip it speed...but what are your thoughts on shaft style? Is this a huge problem or is it ok?

[upah]

Shaft stiffness was one of my big accuracy/consistency problems. I'm 6'4" 195 and I was swinging stiff graphite and having problems controlling the ball. I switched to stiff steel and am much more precise with my shots now. I don't have any idea what my swing speed is, but I'm glad I switched for what its worth.

[JPBayern]

Any other input or advice on this topic? Just curious as to what other experienced golfers think.

[RC]

Graphite shafts in irons took a while to take off for general use, mainly because the shafts were so light compared to steel. Now there are graphite shafts that reach 115 grams and otherwise have characteristics of previous steel shafts. So playing characteristics for irons are getting close.

A shaft has firmness, flex-point (kick point higher or lower,) and torque (think of it as resistance to twisting.) Combine these with response speed (related to stiffness) or frequency and you have pretty much everything people measure. Still, a shaft's response (loads and unloads) in an infinite number of unique ways -- they are all very slightly different.

Typically, graphite has more torque than steel. We have been using graphite in drivers now for long enough to take advantage of a lighter weight, and designer firmness and flex characteristics. The torque issue was something we adjusted to due to the benefits of other parameters. Modern graphite driver shafts can be matched very well to your swing speed and type and your clubhead design, so as long as you are getting optimum or near optimum launch angles and acceptable spin with a driver you are in good shape.

I happen to find an old steel shafted driver in the garage the other day, took it out to swing it, and it felt terrible. However, the three wood felt great. A lot of shaft preference ideas are determined by what you first learned to swing.

Finally, in general, cheaper graphite shafts have more torque or twisting.

[Leftygolfer]

It depends on how you hit them. If you hit them well then they are fine. I would think a decent steel shaft would be more optimal but you are talking about doubling the price. I would use them and see. Maybe rent a set of steel shafted irons to see the difference.

[allin]

My X-14's are fitted with Big Bertha Light Flex Graphite shafts - I bought them used at Golfsmith and as such didn't really have a choice as to what shaft style I wanted with my budget (paid ~$150 since I didn't want to blow hundreds if I found out I didn't enjoy golf...which clearly isn't an issue!). They hit well, but I wonder if some of the problem I'm having finding consistency among other things is due to the shaft flex. I'm a 6'2'' 195lb. young man and probably have a swing speed that exceeds optimal light flex shaft speed (while testing out hybrids at a fitting center I was told I swing in the low to mid 80s).

Is light flex equivalent to an A flex or R flex? If it is A this is probably to soft a shaft and may actually be costingy you distance as well as accuracy. Swing speed in the low 80s, for hybrids, if accurate, would translate to 90 or more in the driver, easily a regular shaft. If you tend to hit your irons excessively high when making a good swing I would experiment further.

[JPBayern]

Is light flex equivalent to an A flex or R flex? If it is A this is probably to soft a shaft and may actually be costingy you distance as well as accuracy. Swing speed in the low 80s, for hybrids, if accurate, would translate to 90 or more in the driver, easily a regular shaft. If you tend to hit your irons excessively high when making a good swing I would experiment further.

You know, now that you mention it, I feel as though sometimes when I get that pure clean strike on the ball it not only goes far, but also climbs up REALLY high into the air...I assume you mention this because it would begin to hold back the distance that I can achieve on my iron shots?

As far as stiffness equivalency, I believe the "light flex" to be comparable to "senior flex" (I'm not sure if that is "A" flex as you refer to it in your post).