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Steel-shafted Drivers?

drtbk933
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glbrum Established Member

glbrum

I used to play a steel shaft driver when I was in high school [graduated in '04] because I had a very fast swing. It worked for the time being. I hit the ball straight and fairly long for being a skinny little kid. I just recently picked up a graphite shafted driver because I was terribly inconsistent with the steel driver.

I've noticed that when my tempo is dialed in, the new driver is on average 40 yards further and far more consistent with fairways-hit. On the flip side, when my tempo is off, I hit the ball all over the place; left, right, really right, you name it.

Moral of the story: get a lesson or just more time on the range with the big stick
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misty_mountainhop Great Member

misty_mountainhop

A lot of people dissing steel shafts for no logical reasons. There's nothing wrong with steel; Jack Nicklaus drove through the 18th at St. Andrews with a steel shafted persimmon headed driver years ago.

A steel shaft is going to be about ~120-130g maybe (for a DG shaft) so it'll be heavier than almost all graphite but not that much heavier. It'll have to be shorter than graphite to maintain a sensible swingweight but shorter will give you more control and accuracy; today's longer graphite shafted woods are too long to control for all but the pros, especially with the current vogue for ~50-60g graphite shafts. Silly.

If it works for you, go for it.

Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

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Note: This thread is 5413 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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