Iron Shaft ?'s! Help

[GolfDogg22]

Hey guys I just got the new TM 09 Burner irons 3 months ago regular shaft, and ive increased my swing speed and dropped 6 stokes off my game since then and i really need a stiff shafted iron. if i stike the ball well thr ball tends to go right, like a push. im pretty sure this in because of the shaft but wanted to make sure. and would i also not only pick up accuracy but distance also? And lastly if changing shafts is what i need then what kind of price am i looking at or can it even be done? thanks!

[Lean, Mean, Hitting Machine]

How do you know that you have increased your swing speed? Have you got it checked? First, you need to get your iron swing speed checked. If it is not AT LEAST 85 mph, don't get stiff. Second, if your iron swing speed is ABOVE 85 mph, then you will want to get FITTED for the right stiff shaft. Just because some people use rifle project x, or dynamic gold doesn't mean that it is the best fit for you. My next point is very important: I have a high swing speed and I play the stiff superfast shaft in my burners. Although my ball flight is higher than most (not as penetrating), my shots land softer on the green. My point is that sometimes you will find that the stock shaft works about as good as the more expensive shafts. If you just have to get something like rifle project x 6.0, or dynamic gold s300, then you are looking at over $100 to buy and reshaft. To summarize, go get your iron swing speed checked, and find out what type of ball flight you desire in order to choose the right shaft.

[Dub]

New shafts can be a very pricey affair......shafts, grips and labor.....easily $25 per stick.


It may be cheaper to sell your current irons and buy the ones you want.

[WUTiger]

If you are pushing or fading the shots, take a look at three things.

Low clubhead speed - you're not swinging hard enough to get the clubface to square up by impact. Probably not your case, since you've picked up distance.

Swing flaw - Maybe your swing action is causing you to leave it to the right. A golf lesson might help.

Too flat a lie angle - the club's toe is catching near impact, opening up your clubface. This means you need a more upright lie for your clubs.

I would get the swing and lie angle checked before messing with the shafts.

[GolfDogg22]

Well im almost positive its the shafts that are pushing my shots right and i know im above 85 mph not even close! my swing speed with driver is 110 and irons are about 90 percent strength wise, of that swing. and when i got fitted for my irons my swing speed was 85 and i know im well beyond that now. and ive been hitting a few stiff shafted irons and its just flat out straighter....same swing just going exactly where im aiming and farther with more spin. and how much does it really cost ive got one saying in the hundreds and another saying around 300?

[WUTiger]

Reshaft total cost has three parts:
* Cost of new shafts themselves (lots of price variety)
* Cost of new grips
* Cost of reshafting labor

Your have 2009 irons, so TM might give you a good trade-in if you ordered new irons from the factory with desired shafts and grips already in place.

Do a cost comparison of reshaft vs. trade + new , and see which is cheaper.

[cody west]

get uniflew project x steel if your looking for acuracy and distance unless your actually looking at stiff steel. which most of the kids on my high school golf team dont hit and there all single digit hcp's
reshafting can be cheap if you play at the same place alot, i know if i needed it done i could have it done cheap just because i know alot of pro because i play frequently at the same places. i cant say you will get the shafts cheap but i can say it will be cheaper if you go to the same pro you went to for lessons and to buy your clubs, someone you have a previous relationship with.

[GolfDogg22]

Okay so heres the deal:
I have right now the regular flex burner superfast 85 (steel) by taylormade. The shaft i want (True Temper Dynamic Gold S300) can be ordered on the burner irons stock from the factory!! So it sounds like WUtiger has the best idea. can you or anyone else give me details on getting the best deal and getting it done right? do i contact taylormade or what? or should i just order them seperatly and have them put on instead of sending them into taylormade to do it? thanks for you thoughts everybody keep them coming!

[GolfDogg22]

Okay ive just got a guy who has the exact shaft and will take my clubs for my and spine the shafts, put new lamkin cord grips in, and install them into the heads and ship them back to me for $220! do i take it or no?? hurry i need responses fast sounds like a steal! 8 shafts 8 grips all spined and installed! hows it sound?

[Kingfisher]

How do you know that you have increased your swing speed? Have you got it checked? First, you need to get your iron swing speed checked. If it is not AT LEAST 85 mph, don't get stiff. Second, if your iron swing speed is ABOVE 85 mph, then you will want to get FITTED for the right stiff shaft. Just because some people use rifle project x, or dynamic gold doesn't mean that it is the best fit for you. My next point is very important: I have a high swing speed and I play the stiff superfast shaft in my burners. Although my ball flight is higher than most (not as penetrating), my shots land softer on the green. My point is that sometimes you will find that the stock shaft works about as good as the more expensive shafts. If you just have to get something like rifle project x 6.0, or dynamic gold s300, then you are looking at over $100 to buy and reshaft. To summarize, go get your iron swing speed checked, and find out what type of ball flight you desire in order to choose the right shaft.

I agree with most of what you have said, especially the importance of a correct fitting.

However the part about swing speed being at least 85mph to warrant a stiff shaft is a generalisation and possibly even nonsense.[/ B] Here's my case to demonstrate: For a while, I was using Ping i3 blades with JZ stiff shafts, very similar to the DG in terms of weight and characteristics. The clubs were fitted at the Ping Factory in UK. I played pretty well for several years using this combination, more than enough distance and good trajectories. Last year, I got itchy and bought a set of Mizuno MP57, which were fitted in a store without launch monitor, so the fitting was based solely on club head speed and impact tape (yes, my mistake!). My swing speed was measured using some small electronic gadget and came out at ~80mph . The fitter said I was in between a 5.0 and a 5.5, but given my smooth tempo, should opt for the 5.0, so I got fitted with Project X 5.0, which together with the mp57 heads 'felt' great and the impact tape said I was striking the ball consistently. Foolishly, I sold away my Pings as soon as the mp57s were delivered - this was my second big mistake. After a couple of outings, I quickly noticed that I'd lost ~2 clubs in distance. At first I put it down to the fact that it was a case of getting used to the new clubs. The trend continued. I went to a professional clubfitter to make sure the clubs were set up as ordered, +0.5", 1 deg up, 5.0 flex, std loft and they were. I persisted with the clubs and despite continuing to strike the ball consistently from the middle of the club, my distances never increased. In the end I just end up taking more club than I used to, no big deal, but a bit frustrating all the same. I just went home to UK for a vacation and whilst I was there I went to the Mizuno National Fitting Centre to have them look at me and my clubs. This was at an outdoor driving range that had a trackman launch monitor. The fitter checked the specs of my 6 iron and commented that he would only issue a PX 5.0 to a senior player or somebody who can't get the ball in the air. I hit a some balls with my current 6 iron and although I was striking it well enough, there was quite a lot of dispertion. The data showed I was averaging ~83mph swing speed, but had a relatively poor smash factor and also that my spin rate was way too high, Around 6500rpm. The fitter immediately cited the shafts as the major cause for the lack of performance. He had me try a few clubs out, all 6 irons with a variety of stiff shafts including DGS300, Rifle 6.0 and NSPRO 1150. I hit 6 irons in total, mp58 and mx300, both with all 3 shafts I mention above. In all 6 cases, the spin rate was lowered to less than 5500 and in each case, the dispertions, trajectories and distances were better than my original set. The DGS was the best shaft for me and in one of the combinations, I increased my smash factor by .10 and gained 25yds of carry. As you can all imagine, this was a real eye-opener for me and now I am in a dilemma- whether to attempt a reshaft on my mp57s, to the DGS, or to buy a correctly fitted new set. I think my experience is a good lesson for all. Sorry it was a bit long-winded, but I hope this demonstrates that saying shaft flex should be determined by which side of 85mph you fall on is nonsense.