Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5916 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Update: I went with a set of Mizuno MX-25 irons. Hopefully it dries up a little here in southern Illinois so I can play a round soon! Thanks for all the advice!

I think you made a good choice, considering your criteria. I recently switched from Callaway X-20's to mx-25's. The X-20's definitely hit the ball farther, but I just couldn't get over the clunky, round look of the X-20's, especially in the short irons (which for some reason are clunkier than the long irons in the set). The X-20 PW looks like a shovel, which makes it difficult to use for pitching and chipping.

Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge 10*
Woods: Mizuno F-60 (15*, 18*); Hybrids: Callaway FT-iZ 21*, Callaway X 24*
Irons: Mizuno MX 25 (5I - GW)
Wedges: Mizuno MP T Chrome (56/10), MP T-10 Black Satin (60/8)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot Tour #9

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Because I have a very similar question I'll it here rather than start a new thread. I'm a high handicapper, but I think that being a low-high or a high-mid handicapper isn't unrealistic after some solid practice this summer so I want clubs with that goal in mind. (I only started keeping track of my handicap as of the last few games, which weren't exactly my best, and my biggest weakness is woods, not irons.)

I'm considering new irons, and the MX-23, MX-25, and R7 have topped my list so far. The problem, though, is that I can't find any MX-23s or MX-25s to demo hit. No one around here has any, not even the places specializing in used clubs. If I could find demo clubs I'd hit them and let that speak for itself, but I can't so I'm asking here.

From what I've read, it seems that the MX-25s are a bit more forgiving than the MX-23s (more noticeably in the longer irons). If that's true, I'd thought that maybe the MX-23s would be better for me because they'd be a bit over my skill level and help train me to hit better. Can anyone verify that the MX-25s are more forgiving / have a larger sweet spot? If so, my main question is: Might MX-23s be overly ambitious or would they not be any less practical than the MX-25s? It seems not, from my reading, but I'd like to get all the info I can before buying anything.

"Golf is an entire game built around making something that is naturally easy - putting a ball into a hole - as difficult as possible." - Scott Adams

Mid-priced ball reviews: Top Flight Gamer v2 | Bridgestone e5 ('10) | Titleist NXT Tour ('10) | Taylormade Burner TP LDP | Taylormade TP Black | Taylormade Burner Tour | Srixon Q-Star ('12)


Posted
Because I have a very similar question I'll it here rather than start a new thread. I'm a high handicapper, but I think that being a low-high or a high-mid handicapper isn't unrealistic after some solid practice this summer so I want clubs with that goal in mind. (I only started keeping track of my handicap as of the last few games, which weren't exactly my best, and my biggest weakness is woods, not irons.)

I have mx-25's and a demo mx-23 6-iron, and I don't notice any difference in terms of forgiveness (although I have read that the 25's are more forgiving). You should be able to find some demo 6-irons on ebay. IMO, the 25's have a lot nicer finish than the 23's. Maybe just see which set you get the best deal on.

Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge 10*
Woods: Mizuno F-60 (15*, 18*); Hybrids: Callaway FT-iZ 21*, Callaway X 24*
Irons: Mizuno MX 25 (5I - GW)
Wedges: Mizuno MP T Chrome (56/10), MP T-10 Black Satin (60/8)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot Tour #9

Posted
Callaway X-18-20-22

These are all great consideration. You may like Mizuno MP52 (prgressive offset, meaning less offset for higher irons)

I used Callaway X-20 tour and like it better than x-20 as tour version has less offset. You need to spend enough time to test them to find one that works best for you. Let us know which one you'll end up with.

Driver: Big Bertha 460, (9° Steel) | Wood: X Fairway 3W (15° Steel) | Hybrid: X 3H (21° Steel) |
Irons: 4-PW, MP-52 (TT DG S300) | Wedges: X-Forged Chrome 52°/13, 56°/15, 60°/10 (TT DG S300) |
Putter: Ping Karsten Anser


Posted
I just went through the same process, and I'm at the same level. I wanted something that would allow me to get better, but make me focus a bit more on what I was doing, so that when I don't do what I'm supposed to, I have to pay for it. I had TM R9's and liked them, but they still didn't give me that feedback I was looking for. I went and demo'd clubs for 2 hours at a time, 2 days in a row and hit everything they had in the store multiple times before I made my decision. I hit everything from X-20 and X-22 Tours, Mizuno MX irons, TM R9 Tours, Burners, about everything Nike made, and everything Cleveland makes.

I ended up choosing a set of Cleveland CG Red Tour Specs. I thought they were a little over my head, although I hit them well on the simulator. What they do make me do is concentrate on my shots, and since I had them fitted and have taken a lesson since I bought them to straighten me back out, I love them.

Posted
I have mx-25's and a demo mx-23 6-iron, and I don't notice any difference in terms of forgiveness (although I have read that the 25's are more forgiving). You should be able to find some demo 6-irons on ebay. IMO, the 25's have a lot nicer finish than the 23's. Maybe just see which set you get the best deal on.

I'd hate to spend $100 to buy and ship two different demo clubs just to decide on which set set to get, but I did think of that. In the mean time, I'm going to keep looking around the local area to see if anyone out here has them. I think the MX-25s look better too, but that's really only a tie-breaker in my for me.

What kind of feedback do you get from the MX-25s? If you hit it an inch from the center, can you tell that you mis-hit? How strong can you feel it? What if you hit a half-inch from the center? Sorry to pick on you, but any info would be helpful.

"Golf is an entire game built around making something that is naturally easy - putting a ball into a hole - as difficult as possible." - Scott Adams

Mid-priced ball reviews: Top Flight Gamer v2 | Bridgestone e5 ('10) | Titleist NXT Tour ('10) | Taylormade Burner TP LDP | Taylormade TP Black | Taylormade Burner Tour | Srixon Q-Star ('12)


Posted
You can certainly tell when you mishit the MX-25s. I have found them to be forgiving enough, though I did replace the 4 iron with a hybrid. I'm not exactly a great golfer either.

Tour Edge Exotics XCG-V 10.5*
Tour Edge Exotics XCG-6 15*
Tour Edge Exotics XCG-6 #4

Callaway Razr X Tour 5-AW
Nike VR Pro Forged Brushed Oxide 54-58
Yes! C-Groove Sally-12M Mid Counterbalance


Posted
I'd hate to spend $100 to buy and ship two different demo clubs just to decide on which set set to get, but I did think of that. In the mean time, I'm going to keep looking around the local area to see if anyone out here has them. I think the MX-25s look better too, but that's really only a tie-breaker in my for me.

I don't think I could answer your last question with any set of clubs, but I do think the 25's have great feedback. I know when I hit them on the sweet spot. I'm not sure if this makes much a difference, but the 25's are have slightly softer forgings (1025 versus 1020 in the 23's).

Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge 10*
Woods: Mizuno F-60 (15*, 18*); Hybrids: Callaway FT-iZ 21*, Callaway X 24*
Irons: Mizuno MX 25 (5I - GW)
Wedges: Mizuno MP T Chrome (56/10), MP T-10 Black Satin (60/8)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot Tour #9

Note: This thread is 5916 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
    • I haven't been able to practice like I wanted and won't for the next week.  1. The weather sucks in Ohio this year. I have been mostly inside hitting foam balls. Just kind of my basic stuff.  2. I woke up last Saturday with a left side rib muscle on fire. If I turned or leaned a certain way it would spasm that almost buckled my knees. I have been taking a break to let that settle. I don't want to get a long term injury. I think I pinched a nerve or just aggravated a muscles.   3. I am going on a mini-vacation to Florida (screw you Ohio weather) with a friend, and rolling that into a work conference I have next week. I will be with out my clubs for a week.  I will be back next in two Fridays to hit the ground running with some warmer temps and better weather in Ohio, hopefully. I would really like to get more out on the course and the range.     
    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.