Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5824 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm back on this section- once again haha.

This time I'm wondering if the key to power and clearance is hip rotation, or core rotation. In my quest to increase the quality of my irons, I've tried time and time to get my hips cleared faster, which won't work. I was hitting practice balls yesterday when it hit me - instead of using my hips to rotate, what if I just used my abdominal area?


Green=Core
Red=Hips

I'll use that fantastic 3D model just to rid my question of any confusion.

Thanks!


 
 


Posted

Pushing the hips forward, or hip slide forward and spine extension at impact are more important than quick/fast rotation of the core or hips.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
In the video of Jamie Sadlowski, he has what I would consider a setup error that results in a swing fault.

With the ball teed high, it appears that he rests his clubhead on the turf directly behind the ball, and then starts his backswing from there. That puts him too close to the ball. Then he bends his left elbow through impact to get his clubhead up to the ball. However, if he is consistently accurate with that setup and swing, then there may be no need to change it.
He also uses a strong grip. The strong grip could be necessary to get the clubface to square at impact because he is too close to the ball. Whatever works.

As for the OP question: I do not key on my hips or abdomen. I key on my lead shoulder. This makes all of my other body movements automatic, including making my lower body lead my downswing perfectly. See, "The Golf Swing and Its Master key Explained" by Noel Thomas.

Posted
I'm back on this section- once again

I'm not clear on what you mean by "quality" and if you are equating that to "power." I am no teacher, but I find my best iron shots are when I am not trying for power at all.

"You can foment revolution or you can cure your slice - life is too short for both" David Owen

WITB*: 2010 winter edition

Driver: AyrtimeFW/hybrid: Distance Master Pro Steel 5w, 7w, 27* hybridIrons: Powerplay 5000 hybrids (6i-SW)Wedge: SMT Durometer 55 degPutter: Z/I Omega mallet*as soon...


Note: This thread is 5824 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Wordle 1,639 4/6 🟩⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩⬜🟨🟨⬜ 🟩⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • You can try it with some lead tape first to see if it works for you.
    • Wordle 1,639 5/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟨⬜🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟨🟩⬜⬜ 🟩⬜🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I am currently playing a Cobra Ltdx LS 9 degree driver and Cobra Ltdx LS FW3. Both with Tensei White stock stiff shafts and original weights of 12g (heel) and 3g (toe). My miss is usually a pull fade or sometimes a slice, swing is out to in. Driver swing speed about 112 mph. Grips are stock regular. Intended change: Driver: Switching to Tensei White x-flex one inch shorter which I suppose would be 44,5? Changing heel weight to 18g. Changing grip to Golf Pride Z-grip cord midsize. Change hosel setting to standard draw. FW3: Changing heel weight to 16g (apparently not available in FW weights, but supposed to be something called "internal weight" a club builder can add which fits between the weight and the screw?). Change grip to Golf Pride Z-grip cord midsize. Changing hosel setting to standard +1. The goal is to 1) get better grip since I tend so lose grip in warm and moist conditions with the current grips and 2) mitigate the misses to start more straight with less side spin. Also considering adding the Cobra Ltdx LS FW5 instead of my old Taylormade R9 and getting 14g heel and 6g toe weights with the same grip as the others and hosel setting standard +1.   All of the above is based on conversations with ChatGPT and, as everyone knows, it can come up with pretty much whatever but I spent a few hours asking about different perspectives etc and this was the recommendation. So, my question is basically, does it make any sense?   Thanks.
    • Wordle 1,639 4/6* ⬜⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.