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Posted
Hi guys...new here and have decided to take the game back up. Just a quick history. Was a very accomplished player and was an All-American in college. Gave Q school a shot one year and then essentially gave the game up altogether. At one point I did not even pick up a club for five years. Just got burned out. Last summer I only played three times.

So here is my question. I am out of the equipment game. Meaning I have not followed it the past 14 or so years. I have a set of Mizuno MP-11. With how long it has been since I played on a regular basis, a forged blade is not a good thing. Any suggestions as what I should look at as far as irons? I will probably be playing more this summer...once a week probably.

Much appreciate...any direction you guys can give me. Looking forward to playing again and not viewing it as a "job".

titleist.gif Titleist 910 D3 - Project X 6.0 7C3 Shaft  |  adams.gif Adams XTD Super Hybrid - 15 degrees  
adams.gif Adams Idea Pro A12 Hybrid - 18 degrees 
Adams CB2 - KBS Tour Shafts - 4 - PW
vokey.gif Vokey 54.10 Oil Can  |  vokey.gif Vokey 60.07 Oil Can  |  rife.gif Rife Trinidad - SuperStroke


Posted
maybe like Titleist CB something blended because u wont have lost everything you will maybe be able to hit them

Posted
Forged -- Mizuno MP 58 or 57, Titleist AP2
Cast -- Taylormade Tour Preferred, Ping S57

Those are all somewhat forgiving player's irons.
Driver -- 909 D2 9.5º - Diamana Blueboard 65
3 Wood -- Burner 15º - REAX Superfast 50 - (re-shafting)
Hybrid -- Rescue TP w/ FCT 19º - Aldila VooDoo SVS8
Irons -- RAC MB TP 3-PW - DG S300
Wedges -- Vokey Spin Milled 52º, MP-T 10 Raw Black Satin 60ºPutter -- Studio Select Newport 2...

Posted
Cool to see someone take up the game again after a long hiatus...good luck. Brugz7 made some good suggestions and I really don't have any to add. I do want to say that I think you will find that forged blades nowadays are easier to hit than they used to be. In general, the head is a little bigger and there is more mass behind the club. They are all more forgiving than something like the MP-11, which is basically like trying to hit a butterknife. I bet you can handle most of the forged stuff on the market once you get back into it.

"I'm not going left or right of those trees, okay. I'm going over those trees...with a little draw." ~ Tin Cup


Posted
the ping i15s even if there good enough for westwood, cabrera etc there good enough for anyone any they are quite easy to hit aparently the callaway diablo forged should also be ok

Posted
Thanks for the initial thoughts guys. I will go give the few listed a good look. I see that Nike is now a big player, any thoughts on their clubs?

I di want to look at the Ping i15s. I always hated the look of Pings back when I was playing a lot, but like I said, the game has changed a lot since I last bought a set of clubs.

titleist.gif Titleist 910 D3 - Project X 6.0 7C3 Shaft  |  adams.gif Adams XTD Super Hybrid - 15 degrees  
adams.gif Adams Idea Pro A12 Hybrid - 18 degrees 
Adams CB2 - KBS Tour Shafts - 4 - PW
vokey.gif Vokey 54.10 Oil Can  |  vokey.gif Vokey 60.07 Oil Can  |  rife.gif Rife Trinidad - SuperStroke


Posted
If your a Mizuno guy, they seem to have plenty to offer in the "players club" category. The Titleist AP2s or the Titleist Cavity Backs would be another route.

Another club you might think about is the Bridgestone J series irons. Bridgestone seems to be in that advanced, yet not pro-blade like, "players irons" category.

You're just going to have to go and hit a bunch to see what looks and feels best to you....

Good luck and welcome back to the game!

What I Play:

Driver: R9 460
4 Wood: G15

Hy: Callaway FT 3Hy

Irons: AP1 4-PW

Wedges: Vokey 52* & 60*, Mizuno MP-T 10 58*

Putter: Newport Studio Select 2.7

Ball: Nike One Vapor


Posted
Good ideas from the other posters. Three you might try:
* Callaway X22 Tour
* Titleist AP2
* Ping I15 or S57

I tested all of these last spring, but my swing wasn't stable enough for consistent hits. With X22T and AP2 you know on impact if you have hit a great, OK, or poor shot.

X22 Tours: These have a slightly higher Vertical Center of Gravity than the X20Tour irons. This means it would be easier to keep the ball lower if you wanted, easier to hit knock-downs.

Also, test out different shafts. As others have surely told you, lots to choose from these days.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted
Hi guys...I'm back. I really appreciate all the ideas. So this afternoon I went and hot a ton of clubs. Nike, Ping, Titleist, Callaway, Misuno, ToylorMade, Wilson, Cleveland and anything else I could find. I came away with I really like my current irons. Are they older, yes, but I still have great confidence in them and still hit them pretty well. Ball striking wiil only get better as I play and practice more over the summer. My only complaint has been the long irons. Obviously they are hard to hit and I have always hot them very low. Sooooooo...I have decided to keep my Misuno MP-11 and replace at least the 2 and 3 iron with hybrids.

What hybrid do you all recommend. I am a TaylorMade guy...but do TM have "hook" faces on them? I have a buddy who swears by his Adams Idea Pro. I wanted to change the title of the thread...not sure it is possible.

Thanks again.

titleist.gif Titleist 910 D3 - Project X 6.0 7C3 Shaft  |  adams.gif Adams XTD Super Hybrid - 15 degrees  
adams.gif Adams Idea Pro A12 Hybrid - 18 degrees 
Adams CB2 - KBS Tour Shafts - 4 - PW
vokey.gif Vokey 54.10 Oil Can  |  vokey.gif Vokey 60.07 Oil Can  |  rife.gif Rife Trinidad - SuperStroke


Posted
Everybody has alot of strong and great input, I guess not moving too far away from forged styles. But, mizuno and plenty of other brands do now offer muscle backs and cut muscles that offer the close feel of forged but are more forgiving.

mizuno mp-30
mizuno mp-60
nike cci
nike forged cci

Posted
sorry that I did not read your last thread, but I can also swear by the Adams Idea hybrids. The pros use them and so do the weekly golfers. if you're looking for an easy to hit hybrid the Nike sq2 do wonders, but the distance may be just a bit less than others, but man are they an ease to hit.

Posted
Regarding hybrid, I had a good experience with Cobra and Ping. Have seen a good feedback for Mizuno and Callwayway as well. I understand your comments on TM for "hook".

Driver: Big Bertha 460, (9° Steel) | Wood: X Fairway 3W (15° Steel) | Hybrid: X 3H (21° Steel) |
Irons: 4-PW, MP-52 (TT DG S300) | Wedges: X-Forged Chrome 52°/13, 56°/15, 60°/10 (TT DG S300) |
Putter: Ping Karsten Anser


Posted
Hi guys...I'm back. I really appreciate all the ideas. So this afternoon I went and hot a ton of clubs. Nike, Ping, Titleist, Callaway, Misuno, ToylorMade, Wilson, Cleveland and anything else I could find. I came away with I really like my current irons. Are they older, yes, but I still have great confidence in them and still hit them pretty well. Ball striking wiil only get better as I play and practice more over the summer. My only complaint has been the long irons. Obviously they are hard to hit and I have always hot them very low. Sooooooo...I have decided to keep my Misuno MP-11 and replace at least the 2 and 3 iron with hybrids.

I haven't hit a ton of hybrids (still prefer long irons) but I did like the Wilson Staffs, the PING i10 and I really like my friends Nakashimas - actually their irons are really nice too.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I see that Nike is now a big player, any thoughts on their clubs?

If they're good enough for Tig......oh...that's right...he don't play anymore, never mind.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted
Lean towards Mizuno when it comes to irons. They have have a good selection from the high to low handicapper. Before you buy a hybrid to replace your long irons get fitted. I changed the lie on my long irons to 2 degrees because I got properly fitted and now I can hit the long irons no problem. Cleavand and Ping make good fairway woods but depending on your swing speed you may need to change the shaft. Recommending a driver is like talking about politics and religion, I'll leave that up to you.
Good Luck :)

Note: This thread is 5917 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
    • I haven't been able to practice like I wanted and won't for the next week.  1. The weather sucks in Ohio this year. I have been mostly inside hitting foam balls. Just kind of my basic stuff.  2. I woke up last Saturday with a left side rib muscle on fire. If I turned or leaned a certain way it would spasm that almost buckled my knees. I have been taking a break to let that settle. I don't want to get a long term injury. I think I pinched a nerve or just aggravated a muscles.   3. I am going on a mini-vacation to Florida (screw you Ohio weather) with a friend, and rolling that into a work conference I have next week. I will be with out my clubs for a week.  I will be back next in two Fridays to hit the ground running with some warmer temps and better weather in Ohio, hopefully. I would really like to get more out on the course and the range.     
    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
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