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every once in a while i will a round of golf where i shank about every 5-6 shots with my mid-long irons

i remember one time last year during on of our biggest golf meets (high school) there were about 15 schools there and i literally shanked EVERY shot on the back 9 that was over 50 yards out and i ended up shooting a 112 when my average at that time was about 80-90

what am i doing when i am shanking the ball so i can easily fix it on the spot when it happens

BAG:Nike ExtremeSport 2
DRIVERTaylormade R11
WOODAdamsgolf Insight
IRONSMizuno MX-100's
WEDGEPing 60 & Mizuno MP R Series 56 PUTTERSeemore FGPLOWEST 9:36LOWEST18:74


There may be various reasons, but for me it is that I roll the clubface open on the backswing and pull the hosel of the club down.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

For me, it was that I wasn't making a complete shoulder turn.
Driver- SuperTri 9.5*
Wood- 906 F2 13*
Hybrids- Rescue TP 17*
Irons(4-PW)- R9 TP w/ KBS Tour
Wedge-ZTP 52* w/ KBS Tour Wedge-58* VokeyPutter- Studio Select New Port 2 Mid-SlantBall-TP Black/Red

Shanking is sometimes caused by not staying "connected" during you backswing and most improtantly, during your downswing.

Next time you practice, place a towel or glove underneath both of your armpits. During your swing, try to focus on not allowing the glove or towel to fall out of your armpits. This will keep you connected and prevent you from shifting the swing toward the ball and becoming un connected with your arms which effectively, causing the hosel line up with the ball and produce the shank. This drill will also prevent the fanning of the club face as becoming unconnected and pushing your arms away from the body slows down the squaring of the face at impact.

Also, during the drill, make sure you make a full shoulder turn.

Good luck!

Deryck Griffith

Titleist 910 D3: 9.5deg GD Tour AD DI7x | Nike Dymo 3W: 15deg, UST S-flex | Mizuno MP CLK Hybrid: 20deg, Project X Tour Issue 6.5, HC1 Shaft | Mizuno MP-57 4-PW, DG X100 Shaft, 1deg upright | Cleveland CG15 Wedges: 52, 56, 60deg | Scotty Cameron California Del Mar | TaylorMade Penta, TP Black LDP, Nike 20XI-X


what am i doing when i am shanking the ball so i can easily fix it on the spot when it happens

I've mostly heard about people hitting shanks with short irons and wedges - when trying to make a shot that requires an outside-in swingpath, yet they have the inside-out path as a swingthought.

With mid and long irons you want to use the inside-out path, but it's easy to overdo it - the clubhead must stay on target line for a moment. Imagine one of the following motions (it will seem exaggerated at first - you can tone it down once you get it): - making a long pass in hockey with hands sweeping along the ice toward the intended target - sweeping dirt and leaves off your deck/porch with a corn broom PS. Also don't forget to maintain quiet feet and to complete your shoulder turn - don't just take your arms and hands back. You need to build up some proper torsion to get the most out of long irons.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5345 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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