Getting a new wedge, please help with bounce some..

[xringx]

Example:

Vokey spin milled 60.04 vs 60.07 or higher...

I read that non diggers (me) need less bounce to keep from digging... would that be the lower (60.04) with the 04 being low bounce?

I rarely make much of a divot much less of a big divot. (dad threatened me with death when i was young and hitting balls on the grass)

Thanks for straightening me out..

[VMAN]

04 would be the lower bounce, in fact that may be less bounce than most pitching wedges. And for a wedge 07 is not that much bounce either. I played a 60/06 for years, I found a little more bounce helpful in the bunkers but it still didn't keep me from opening the blade up on the turf. Currently I have a 60/07, I'm happy with that as well.

[CrazyXGolfer]

Yes 04 would be the lower bounce. I would sugest going to a fitting night and trying them out before you buy them
I would tell you what mine are, but I can't rember. I have them grinded for me, when I brought them.

[James_Black]

you don't "need" less bounce.

Bounce will stop the wedge digging into the ground.

Nothing wrong with that, too much and it become harder to hit flop shots.

I have 7* bounce on my 60* and I wouldn't want less.

[erock9174]

I just got a vokey 60.4 and love it. I am also a sweeper and it works great with my swing. Both for chips to flop on or from about 60yds out.

[JML22]

most players dont even need to be worrying about bounce to be honest
Well out of the sand it obviously helps but you should have that figured out with what clubs you need for that.
But 15+ caps usually arent hitting those flops shots where you nuke the ground first to generate a ton of spin. Even attempting those shots ends up 1/4 goign to the otherside of the green or fat

[rebby]

Also look at the sole grind between the two. There is more than just bounce at play here. The 60.04 has much more relief in the heel/toe than the 60.07. Depending on your game, that could be a good thing.

[WUTiger]

For details on wedge playability (including things that influence bounce), check out Ralph Maltby's link:
http://www.ralphmaltby.com/50

For more detail on bounce , try this Hireko site:
http://blog.hirekogolf.com/2007/10/1...-bounce-angle/

Read both of these, and you'll be qualified to give advice on golf blogs!

[TourSpoon]

For the conditions I play in South Florida, I needed the higher bounce in the Vokey. I had the 60/04 and sent it back for the 60/07 which was a better fit. I thought to go with the lower as my Cleveland was a low bounce but they are different clubs. Good luck and either get fit or go play with them.

[boston blackie]

I just got a 52* black magic wedge. It arrived yesterday and I took it to the range, and then played a quick nine. I have to say that the wedge is truly magic. All my range shots fell in a tight group with no shanks or mishits. On the course it worked well, fantastic out of the sand trap. You have to try these to believe it. http://www.blackmagicwedge.com/

[James_Black]

I just got a 52* black magic wedge. It arrived yesterday and I took it to the range, and then played a quick nine. I have to say that the wedge is truly magic. All my range shots fell in a tight group with no shanks or mishits. On the course it worked well, fantastic out of the sand trap. You have to try these to believe it.

it isn't a wedge lol.

[mlf16507]

Bounce and Camber
The "bounce" of the sole is the angle the sole makes with the ground when the club is held at a normal address. The term comes mostly from sand wedges, which have a substantial positive angle on their flange that keeps them from digging into the sand and burying.
The "camber" of the sole is the curvature. There are two different kinds: heel-toe camber (illustrated in the section on Club Length) and face-back camber. A clubhead that has a lot of both kinds is frequently advertised as having "four-way camber".

In the hope of reducing confusion, I'm adopting some terminology I've seen used by Golfsmith. The heel-toe curvature will henceforth be referred to as "rocker" in these notes and my r.s.g. posts. The term "camber" will be reserved for the face-back curvature.

A head with a negative bounce will tend to dig into the ground when it strikes it. A zero or slightly positive bounce will skim along the ground.

If your swing uses a downward strike of the ball, a negative bounce means you'll take a "beaver pelt" divot with relatively little effort.
If your swing is a sweep that contacts the ball at the bottom of the arc, a flat bounce may save a slightly fat hit from becoming "play the divot, it went further than the ball". A little face-back camber added to such a clubhead will reduce the slowing of the clubhead from friction with the ground.
Note that both swing styles are valid, and are taught by some following of pros. The touring pros tend to take big divots with their irons and sweep their fairway woods. Jack Nicklaus' tape and book "Golf My Way" tends to encourage a sweeping swing with most clubs (even though that point isn't made explicit).
Now let's talk about rocker (heel-toe camber, but I won't remind you again). I believe it's very important, and greatly prefer more of it. Quoting from Golfsmith's "Golf Clubs - Design and Repair":

"The soles of all clubs, both woods and irons, should have some contour from heel to toe, so that when the sole touches the ground the contact point will be directly under the sweet spot. This contour is particularly important in the irons where divots are normally taken. With a flat soled club, the slightest error in the lie angle would cause either the toe or the heel to dig in at impact while the contoured sole has a built in margin of error. Also, the contoured sole takes a narrower divot, which permits the club to cut through the ground with less effort."
I agree with what they say about the irons. However, I also find it makes a surprisingly large difference in woods, even the driver. My most common mis-hit with a driver is scuffing the ground before I hit the ball. Most drivers have a fairly flat sole plate, so a corner (usually the heel for me) catches the ground and turns the club; when I scuff a drive with a conventional-sole driver, I usually hit a duck hook.
A few years ago, I experimented with two new drivers:

Golfsmith's Big Gun has accentuated rocker. Most of the times that I scuffed it, I got a high draw instead of a duck hook; I lost a little distance, but usually got away with a respectable drive.
Acer's M160J has a keel sole, the reductio ad absurdum of rocker. When I scuffed the ground with that keel, it always dragged in the center of the clubhead, without turning the club. You couldn't tell from the direction or trajectory of the ball that I had scuffed; it just lost a little distance.

I practice what I preach with irons, too.

In the past, I have used a sweeping swing that hits the ball without much divot. My irons were Golfsmith Tour Model IV, with zero bounce (or perhaps even slightly positive) and as accentuated a 4-way camber as I've seen.
This year, I have learned to hit down on the ball. I have built myself a new set, with a sole better designed to take a divot (less camber and no bounce).

Sole Width
A narrower sole has less friction with the ground. However, if you hit it fat, a narrower sole won't provide as much saving "skim" on the surface; it'll tend to dig. In other words, if you are quite repeatable with your swing and almost never hit it fat, you'll probably want a narrow sole. A wider sole is a feature of game-improvement clubheads for the less-precise golfer.

Weighting