Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5799 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Hey everyone my girlfriend bought a set of clubs at a garage sale and the grips are pretty bad. I was wondering how difficult it is to re-grip clubs on your own. I was also wondering what i would need and if there are any tips on re-gripping. Finally is it worth it or should I have someone do it for me thanks.

In my x86 stand bag-

DRIVER- Tour Burner 9.5* STIFF
3 & 5 WOOD- 980F PT 15* 19*
3-PW IRONS- 690 CB FORGED G-S-L WEDGE- CG 10 Black Pearl 52* 56* 60*BALL- ProV1 and ProV1x


Posted
Its very simple to do. Go to your local pro shop and purchase the supplies you need to re-grip your clubs. They usually sell these materials in a kit. The kit comes with a solvent and double sided tape. Simply use a razor knife to cut off old grip. Remove old double sided tape. May want to use an acetone to remove sticky residue. Apply new double sided tape to shaft. I take the new grip and insert a tee into the hole at the top of the grip. I pour the solvent into the grip and shake it around. I pour the solvent onto the double sided tape, remove the tee from the grip and slide it on. Make sure and slide it all the way down. The grip should have a mark at the top and bottom of the grip. Align these marks down the shaft to the club head. you can use a straight edge or just eye ball it. Its a pretty simple process. and plus you have plenty of time to adjust to make sure they are straight. Once grips are installed I would let them set over night to dry.

In myM9 bag
09 Burner 10.5* Stiff flex
Burner 19* 3 hybrid (Stiff Flex)
Burner 22* 4 hybrid (Stiff Flex)
G10 irons 4-PW(white dot) steel shaft (Stiff Flex)Oil can 52* wedge Spin milled 56* & 60* wedgesHalf Craz- E B belly putter SG 3.5golf balls


Posted
go to you tube and search it out too
watching a vid will help you

really is very easy bro, CWHOlland pretty much summed it up
"My swing is homemade - but I have perfect flaws!" - Me

Posted
Around here the cost of them putting on the grip is included in the price at some shops, but you could be without your clubs for a day or so, just do it yourself, take your time and you'll learn how simple it is to do.

Posted
Hey thanks for the help do you guys have any suggestions on what type of grips and kits I should get.

In my x86 stand bag-

DRIVER- Tour Burner 9.5* STIFF
3 & 5 WOOD- 980F PT 15* 19*
3-PW IRONS- 690 CB FORGED G-S-L WEDGE- CG 10 Black Pearl 52* 56* 60*BALL- ProV1 and ProV1x


Posted
1 vote for just taking the clubs in & having it done professionally. I'm sure it's not brain surgery to learn to do it yourself, but I like the "no-hassle" approach of letting someone else that knows what they are doing take care of it.

Getting your clubs re-gripped is DEFINITELY a must, but I'd rather have someone else do it. :)

Callaway X-18 Irons | TaylorMade R5 Driver, 200 Steel 3 Wood | Cleveland Golf CG-14 Gap & Sand Wedge | Titleist Vokey Lob Wedge | Odyssey White Hot Putter | Titleist ProV1 Ball | Bushnell Pro 1600 Tournament Edition Laser Rangefinder


Posted
Hey thanks for the help do you guys have any suggestions on what type of grips and kits I should get.

I would definitely do it yourself. I had never done it until a couple of weeks ago, and now I wonder why I waited so long. Go to the golf shop and figure out which ones you like. Shop around (ebay, etc.) for the best deal. I got a full set of 14 Golf Pide DD2's, with the tape, solvent and a rubber vise clamp, all for less than $70. My local shop charged $8.50 each, including installation. If you have a little bit of DIY'er in you, it's kind of fun.

A couple of more tips: put a foil or plastic pan (like you would use to drain motor oil) under the club as you apply the solvent and install the grip. It catches all the excess solvent. Also, I usually mark the centerline of the old grip on the shaft using a Sharpie. This makes lining up the new grip easier. Otherwise it is sometimes hard to tell where the centerline should be.

In My Grom:
Driver: Taylormade R1 10.5°
Fairway: Taylormade RocketBallz Stage 2 Tour 14.5°
Hybrids: Ping G25 3, 4
Irons: Mizuno 5-PW JPX 800 Pro

Wedges: CG-14 50°, 56°, 60°

Putter: Nike Method 003


Posted
I would definitely do it yourself. I had never done it until a couple of weeks ago, and now I wonder why I waited so long. Go to the golf shop and figure out which ones you like. Shop around (ebay, etc.) for the best deal. I got a full set of 14 Golf Pide DD2's, with the tape, solvent and a rubber vise clamp, all for less than $70. My local shop charged $8.50 each, including installation. If you have a little bit of DIY'er in you, it's kind of fun.

The last time I had mine reripped I paid for the service, but I will not do that again, as it is just too easy and cheaper.

OHIO

In my Revolver Bag
R9 460, RIP
R9 TP 3 Wood, Diamana 'ilima 70*Idea Pro Black 20*Titleist AP1 712 4-AW Spin Milled Black Nickel 56.08 & 60.10


Posted
I just had my pops 990's regripped with Golf Pride. The grip and installation was $7 a club....

Posted
Sounds pretty easy. My wife hates the grips on her clubs. I am going to tell her to pick some out.

"I play in the low 80's. If it is an hotter than that, I don't play"

Joe E. Lewis


Posted
I just had my pops 990's regripped with Golf Pride. The grip and installation was $7 a club....

Golf Pride Tour Velvet? If so, you paid about $3.50 per grip for installation.

In My Grom:
Driver: Taylormade R1 10.5°
Fairway: Taylormade RocketBallz Stage 2 Tour 14.5°
Hybrids: Ping G25 3, 4
Irons: Mizuno 5-PW JPX 800 Pro

Wedges: CG-14 50°, 56°, 60°

Putter: Nike Method 003


Posted
Golf Pride Tour Velvet? If so, you paid about $3.50 per grip for installation.

Yep, and that sounds reasonable to me.


Posted
The good thing is if i screw up..... who cares their not my clubs haha.

In my x86 stand bag-

DRIVER- Tour Burner 9.5* STIFF
3 & 5 WOOD- 980F PT 15* 19*
3-PW IRONS- 690 CB FORGED G-S-L WEDGE- CG 10 Black Pearl 52* 56* 60*BALL- ProV1 and ProV1x


Posted
Check out http://www.puregrips.com They are non tape grips that you put on with an air compressor. You buy the little gadget for a compressor and all 13 clubs re-gripped in about 20 minutes. Took much longer to get the old grips off. You will also need something to hold the grip in a vise, I got mine from golfsmith.

The grips are made smaller on the inside so they grip the shaft with no adhesive necessary. I have had mine on for about 2 months and think they are great.

Right now they are selling the grips half off when you buy the tool. Cost me about $80 with shipping. I did find them at some online stores for even cheaper but that was after I had already bought them.

In the Bag

Custom Built
Driver - R7 Draw 460 / Matrix Studio 84 Shaft X-Stiff
3 Wood - Kest S S.D. T-Steel / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-Stiff5 Wood - Kent S S.D. T-Steel / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-Stiff3 Hybrid - RX Low Pro / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-StiffIrons - 4-PW C1 Tour / Precision Rifle...

Wedges - Titlest Vokey Wedges SM5 56-14 and 52-12


Posted
Check out http://www.puregrips.com They are non tape grips that you put on with an air compressor. You buy the little gadget for a compressor and all 13 clubs re-gripped in about 20 minutes. Took much longer to get the old grips off. You will also need something to hold the grip in a vise, I got mine from golfsmith.

The grips are made smaller on the inside so they grip the shaft with no adhesive necessary. I have had mine on for about 2 months and think they are great.

Right now they are selling the grips half off when you buy the tool. Cost me about $80 with shipping. I did find them at some online stores for even cheaper but that was after I had already bought them.

In the Bag

Custom Built
Driver - R7 Draw 460 / Matrix Studio 84 Shaft X-Stiff
3 Wood - Kest S S.D. T-Steel / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-Stiff5 Wood - Kent S S.D. T-Steel / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-Stiff3 Hybrid - RX Low Pro / Matrix Studio 94 Shaft X-StiffIrons - 4-PW C1 Tour / Precision Rifle...

Wedges - Titlest Vokey Wedges SM5 56-14 and 52-12


Posted
I will look in to that sounds like I might have to try that. Has anyone ever sharpened groves before? I was looking into that for my wedges but I also might have to try that with her clubs. Just wondering if it is worth it or not.

In my x86 stand bag-

DRIVER- Tour Burner 9.5* STIFF
3 & 5 WOOD- 980F PT 15* 19*
3-PW IRONS- 690 CB FORGED G-S-L WEDGE- CG 10 Black Pearl 52* 56* 60*BALL- ProV1 and ProV1x


Posted
I have my clubs regripped by someone else also. Just don't have the interest to do it myself. I usually do no more than 5 clubs at a time so the turnaround time is damn fast. I had my backup Wilson irons 5-PW done in less than 2 hours. I use the Golf Pride New Decade MultiCompound grip.

Callaway Org14 Sport w/ Clicgear Cart:

Callaway X 460 9* - Callaway X 15* - TaylorMade 19*/21* Hybrid - Callaway Diablo Forged 4-PW - Titleist 50/56/60 - Rife Cayman Brac - Bridgestone xFIXx/B330-RX - TRUE Linkswear Supporter!


Posted
Around here the cost of them putting on the grip is included in the price at some shops, but you could be without your clubs for a day or so, just do it yourself, take your time and you'll learn how simple it is to do.

My local pro shop just charges for the grip, but obviously they are expensive as it is a small shop. I regrip my own clubs when needed, only because i buy the grips and tape online and save a load off what one would pay in a shop. And it is just one of those things that is fun to learn.

What I Play:
Wilson Mini Stand Bag | PING G10, 10.5°, Proforce V2 HL S | PING G5, 15°, 18°, Aldila NV 75 S | PING G5, 19°, Aldila VS Proto By You 80 S
Mizuno MX200 4-PW S | Ping Tour W 50/12 X | Ping Tour W 58/TS X | A selection of putters, all 35.5 inches.

Note: This thread is 5799 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
    • Wordle 1,789 4/6* ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟨🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.