Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5795 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Ok, so I have been toying with the idea of changing my putter's grip. The current grip is fine...soft even, allows for good feedback (rife black and gray), but I was looking at the Winn mid size (jumbo pistol) and over sized (Giant pistol) and the theory behind it seems to make sense. I kind of like the Jumbo, as is not ridiculously by as the giant, but I have a few questions:

- What should I look for in a putters grip?
- The jumbo weighs 124 grams...how is that if any going to affect swing? HOw much to regular grip weigh?
- Any truth to the claim of thicker grip better pendulum?

Thanks!!!
It's the indian, not the arrow! But it sure is nice to have good arrows!!!!!

Driver : r7 Limited 9.5* Matrix Ozik X-Con 5.5 (Reg) | Fairway: 906F4 15.5* (Reg) | Hybrids: DWS Baffler 3/R 20* (Reg) & Baffler Rail H 4-H 22* (Reg) | Irons: AP1 5-G (Reg) | Wedges: SW - SM56-10 & LW - SM60-04 | Putter:.....

Posted
putting is all about comfort and confidence. well, it's really about confidence and comfort leads to confidence. so go with what feels good to you - what gives you the confidence to hit your line. don't worry about your swing. you're likely not pulling or pushing as much as you think. i can't tell you how many times i've watched someone putt when they think they have pushed or pulled but have not. in reality they just read the green wrong. when you are putting, you do not have a good view of the beginning of your roll. a "push" or "pull" if often times a bigger early break than you saw. when you stand behind the putter, you can observe this.

so to net it out, my advice is to go with what you're comfortable with. don't over-think your stroke. and practice, practice, practice your green reading.

What's in my Titleist Lightweight Cart Bag that sits on my Clic Gear 3.0 Push Cart:
Driver TaylorMade Tour Burner 10.5° Fujikura SuperFast Stiff
3W TaylorMade Burner 15° TM REAX Stiff
Hybrid Cobra Baffler Rail H 19° Fujikura Motore Stiff
Irons TaylorMade  R7 3-PWWedges Cleveland CG14 52°.10 and...


Posted
I recently switched to the mid-size winn grip on a whim. It only costs $8 to change, so I thought it was worth a shot. So far, so good -- it is really just a matter of personal preference.
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge 10*
Woods: Mizuno F-60 (15*, 18*); Hybrids: Callaway FT-iZ 21*, Callaway X 24*
Irons: Mizuno MX 25 (5I - GW)
Wedges: Mizuno MP T Chrome (56/10), MP T-10 Black Satin (60/8)
Putter: Odyssey White Hot Tour #9

Posted
I changed to a jumbo grip because I thought it would be a good idea. Well, it didn't really work out as I felt like I lost some feel so I was out about 15 bucks or so once I put the regular size back on. It was a relatively cheap lesson on why I shouldn't fix things that aren't broken. I'm sure it won't be the last either!

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted
My friend just put a jumbo grip on his putter. We have been ribbing him non-stop since. Decorum prohibits me from mentioning what it looks like in such a pure place as the innerwebs.

- Shane

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
i switched to a jumbo grip (original Super Stroke, aka KJ Choi's grip) last year due to some handsiness on short putts. Really helped that. The original SuperStroke is heavy though, and feel was off until i added a bunch of lead tape to the putterhead. Some newer models aren't any heavier than std grips though. However, i'm experimenting with a standard grip again as i got a steal on a new Odyssey Sabertooth; it seems a year of the SuperStroke may have been like a swing-trainer for me, and i no longer seem as handsy!

Driver: Cleveland Classic 270, 10.5*
Fairway Woods: Adams Speedline LP (3 & 5)
Hybrids: Wilson Staff Fybrids 21*, 24*, UST V2 stiff
Irons: Callaway X-20 Tour, 5-PW, Rifle Project-X (flighted) 6.0
Wedges: Cleveland CG15 DSG 52* & 58* +/- 56* Niblick

Putter: Yes! Amy


Note: This thread is 5795 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
    • Wordle 1,789 4/6* ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟨🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.