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Posted
What is "Workbility"? What is "Work the ball"? I hear that a lot.

I am trying to decide if I am going to go for PING i15 or G15. I can strike G15 better. i15, I miss sometimes. I am willing to gain a little more "workbility" if i15 can help me. But what the is that?

Posted
I believe workability is the ability for you to shape a shot the way you intend. like you say u want to aim 15 yards to the left of a tree, and have the ball fade back 15 yards.. thus working around the tree.

but from what I"ve been told, you can't 'work' a shot unless you strike it solidly.. so better get the irons that you can strike better, instead of ones where you may miss.. b/c u can't work anything until you hit it.

Posted
What is "Workbility"? What is "Work the ball"? I hear that a lot.

It means it's easier to hit a draw/fade. Better players or people who think they're good players prefer clubs that are more workable than other clubs.

I'd say go for the G15

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
What I am thinking is, I practice a lot. And I see a quick improvment in my game, I am thinking may be in the near future, I can "work the ball" too. A set of irons are expensive. Why don't I just get a set of i15. I may get frustrated once a while, but in long run, save me some money and improve quicker. What do you guys think?

Posted
You need to have confidence in your irons, without worrying about the $$$'s. Demo the snot outta both of them, and then go with the set which gives you what you want. Otherwise, you could get so frustrated that you sell your set and quit golf.

Posted
If you understand how a golf swing works, you can work the ball - basic draw and fade - with any irons.

Ball height is easier to control with player's irons than Game Improvement (GI) or Super Game Improvement (SGI). The SGI especially have clubheads designed to get the ball up quickly.

With player's irons there's trade-offs. You'd have to look at the technical specs on specific iron models, but some designers have described the difference like this: Player's irons have a sweet spot the size of a dime, SGI irons the size of a quarter.

If you have a well-tuned swing, the player's or GI irons will be more responsive to your swing. But mishits get less forgiveness with player's or GI irons than with SGIs.

The shaft you pick also determines workability. Check out the True Temper and Project X product sites to see how different shaft flexes, flightings, and kick points affect trajectory and shot shape.

With your handicap, I would suggest the G15 model. You can work the basic draw and fade with these, if your swing is in order. If you start shooting in the 80s and want to upgrade later, the G15s should bring a decent trade-in price.

Straight ahead? With high MOI (moment of inertia) clubs available, many of our fellow posters say the just try to hit everything straight. If you're still grooving your swing, you might try straight ahead, and then add in a occasional fade or draw.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted
What I am thinking is, I practice a lot. And I see a quick improvment in my game, I am thinking may be in the near future, I can "work the ball" too. A set of irons are expensive. Why don't I just get a set of i15. I may get frustrated once a while, but in long run, save me some money and improve quicker. What do you guys think?

the i15's are pretty workable, but they are very forgiving at the same time. so it's really your call. pings are quite easy to hit. hell, lee westwood still uses g15's


Posted
the i15's are pretty workable, but they are very forgiving at the same time. so it's really your call. pings are quite easy to hit. hell, lee westwood still uses g15's

Take a look at GD's "Bag" on Westwood. Driver is only G15 he carries.

http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...ood-my-golfbag He has all Ping clubs, with custom I10s as his irons.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Workability is the ability to draw or fade the ball without having to drastically change your swing path. Clubs with high "workability" will more easily put sidespin on the ball with small swing changes, which is great for pros and scratch golfers that have consistent swings, and are able to intentionally make small changes to create different ballflights. For the rest of us, clubs with less "workability" are usually better, in my opinion, because we make small swing changes unintentionally all the time, and we'd prefer if these didn't create unintended changes in ballflight.

What's in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag:

Driver - Taylormade Superfast 2.0 TP 10.5
3 Wood - Taylormade Burner 15* REAX
Hybrid - Adams Idea Pro 18* GD YSQ-HL

Irons - Callaway X-18 4-PW

GW - Cleveland 588 51*

SW - Cleveland CG 12 56*

LW - Cleveland CG15 60*

Putter - Cameron Studio Style Newport 2

Bushnell Medalist rangefinder


Posted
Workability is the ability to draw or fade the ball without having to drastically change your swing path. Clubs with high "workability" will more easily put sidespin on the ball with small swing changes, which is great for pros and scratch golfers that have consistent swings, and are able to intentionally make small changes to create different ballflights. For the rest of us, clubs with less "workability" are usually better, in my opinion, because we make small swing changes unintentionally all the time, and we'd prefer if these didn't create unintended changes in ballflight.

+1 More "workable" irons are usually also more "sliceable" if your swing is off or inconsistent. I'd agree with other posts that until you're shooting in the 80's regularly you're probably better off with more forgiving clubs, i.e. G15's (which are also "sliceable", but a little less likely or severely perhaps).

Driver: Cleveland Classic 270, 10.5*
Fairway Woods: Adams Speedline LP (3 & 5)
Hybrids: Wilson Staff Fybrids 21*, 24*, UST V2 stiff
Irons: Callaway X-20 Tour, 5-PW, Rifle Project-X (flighted) 6.0
Wedges: Cleveland CG15 DSG 52* & 58* +/- 56* Niblick

Putter: Yes! Amy


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