Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5765 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Hey guys I have been agonizing over what shaft I should be playing for a long time. I know there are a ton of threads about this already but I was given some advice at the local Edwin Watts and I wanted to see what you guys think.

I have stiff shafts in all of my clubs. I was thinking I may get better distance out of regular flex but the guy at Edwin Watts said I should stick with the stiff shafts since I can draw my 7 iron. He said I would just end up hooking it pretty bad. I had heard this before but he never even asked me about tempo in my swing which is pretty slow.

I know that I should have just got my swing speeds measured but they don't have a machine there. Anyway this is more of a rant than anything else but I just wanted to see what your advice was.

In my Sasquatch stand bag
Driver: G5 10.5*
Fairway wood: R9 4 wood
Irons: R7 3-PW OR Firesole 3-PW
Wedges: VR 52-10 56-14 & 260-4Putter: TraceyShoe: Powerband 3.0


Posted
I'm gonna agree with the guy at Edwin Watts. If I was hitting a draw one of the last things I would do is go to a flexier shaft.

Posted
It is more like I CAN hit a draw if I want to. Mostly I am a straight ball flight kinda guy. I see your point though. Maybe a more flexible shaft in my woods? It seems like the difference between my driver and my old 3 wood was only about 15 yards.

In my Sasquatch stand bag
Driver: G5 10.5*
Fairway wood: R9 4 wood
Irons: R7 3-PW OR Firesole 3-PW
Wedges: VR 52-10 56-14 & 260-4Putter: TraceyShoe: Powerband 3.0


Posted
I agree with Max Power and the EW guy. I'd stick with the stiffs. In general, more flex will pull you to the left. If you can hit your 7i 150 or further, thats enough distance IMO. 7i is a club for accuracy, not power/distance.

'09 Burner (UST ProForce V2 77g - S)
4dx 15.5 hybrid (UST V2 - Stiff)
'99 Apex Plus 3-EW (Stiff)
TM rac 50/6 GW
Arnold Palmer The Standard SW (20-30 years old)'99 Dual Rossie Blade


Posted
Thanks. With my old R7s I hit my 7 iron 150. With my VRs I hit my 6 iron 150. It is frustrating.

In my Sasquatch stand bag
Driver: G5 10.5*
Fairway wood: R9 4 wood
Irons: R7 3-PW OR Firesole 3-PW
Wedges: VR 52-10 56-14 & 260-4Putter: TraceyShoe: Powerband 3.0


Posted
I had my first experience with a FlightScope this afternoon. I have been hitting a regular flex shaft in my r7 driver for two years now. Every golfer I have played with has been in shock when they found out I am hitting a Reg flex shaft with my swing speed. (I know better than to post numbers on this forum, so I won't go there)

Point being after demo'ing a variety of drivers and shafts, the Pro said I had the most ideal trajectory, distance, and consistency out of my old driver with the reg shaft. I would suggest actually getting fitted to see what works best for your swing, as its not as easy as saying "Your SS is XXX, so you you need ABC Shaft"

I realize you are talking about your irons, but I'd assume the same would apply. You should get fitted for what works best for you, rather than spending money on reshafting when it may not actually improve your game.
Driver: r7 Superquad 9.5°
5W: Speed LD
Hybrid: Rescue TP 19°
Irons: MP-57 3i-PW
Wedges: SM Oil Can 52° and 58°Putter: Rossa Daytona

Posted
When you got fitted did you hit on a range or on a simulator? I only know of one fitting system close to me and it is on a simulator. I like to see the real ball flight but if that is all I have I will use it. The problem is that the folks there (it is an Edwin Watts) don't seem that interested in helping you. I went there once and they let me swing a couple drivers and they said, "Yep this is what you need" like they were trying to rush me. This one store is kinda known for that. It is in a tourist town so I can see it a little but still it is annoying.

Maybe I will give them another try.

In my Sasquatch stand bag
Driver: G5 10.5*
Fairway wood: R9 4 wood
Irons: R7 3-PW OR Firesole 3-PW
Wedges: VR 52-10 56-14 & 260-4Putter: TraceyShoe: Powerband 3.0


Posted
When you got fitted did you hit on a range or on a simulator? I only know of one fitting system close to me and it is on a simulator. I like to see the real ball flight but if that is all I have I will use it. The problem is that the folks there (it is an Edwin Watts) don't seem that interested in helping you. I went there once and they let me swing a couple drivers and they said, "Yep this is what you need" like they were trying to rush me. This one store is kinda known for that. It is in a tourist town so I can see it a little but still it is annoying.

The flightscope I hit was set up on a range, so I could see the ball flights. I can't say I've ever been to an Edwin Watts, however it sounds like you may have to go somewhere else to find someone willing to help you.

Driver: r7 Superquad 9.5°
5W: Speed LD
Hybrid: Rescue TP 19°
Irons: MP-57 3i-PW
Wedges: SM Oil Can 52° and 58°Putter: Rossa Daytona

Posted
Thanks. The only one I have every had a problem with was this one. Unfortunatley that is the only one with the launch monitor. The one I normally go to has a range but no monitor.

In my Sasquatch stand bag
Driver: G5 10.5*
Fairway wood: R9 4 wood
Irons: R7 3-PW OR Firesole 3-PW
Wedges: VR 52-10 56-14 & 260-4Putter: TraceyShoe: Powerband 3.0


Posted
I have stiff shafts in all of my clubs. I was thinking I may get better distance out of regular flex but the guy at Edwin Watts said I should stick with the stiff shafts since I can draw my 7 iron.

This sounds like the sort of crappy advice I'd expect to receive either from a cab driver (no offense to any cab drivers out there), or from my mother-in-law.

First of all, I am fully capable of hitting a draw with a 7 iron with a Dynamic Gold X-100 shaft in it, but that doesn't mean that's the right shaft for my irons. It isn't. I have to swing it way too hard, I don't hit them high enough and I lose too much distance. Second, every brand and model of shaft is different, and therefore sweeping generalizations about someone being a "Regular" or a "Stiff" are silly. Try different shafts and see what feels comfortable to you, and gives you the best combination of accuracy, trajectory and distance (in that order).

Note: This thread is 5765 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.