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Posted

to get just enough spin on the ball one way or another you can start simple. Draw: imagine a V line, where left line goes at the target; line up your feet along the right line in the "V" - start small, few inches. Keep your club aligned towards the target (left line in the "V"). Try to swing "normal" and allow your body guide your club from inside-out along the line of your feet. Experiment with that, changing the angle in the "V" until you reach appropriate effect.

To hit a fade - do exact the opposite. Feet alingment is the easiest way to send your club down the proper path, if you don't have to - leave other "technical nonsense" out of it
You won't be able to generate a sweeping hook or hard fade (around imaginary obstruction), but I'd start there first. Once you get comfortable moving the ball 10 feet either direction you can add some of the "technical nonsense" to get the 'hard movemement of the ball' down !

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Posted

I've always struggled to hit draws and fades because I just don't hit enough balls at the driving range anymore. However, I was watching Golf Academy Live last night on TGC, and Stuart Appleby was on there as a special guest.

They asked him to demonstrate how to hit a draw and fade, and Appleby basically did exactly what Rafi just described. I always tried to take some huge swing from inside out, and in all reality, the alignment of the feet is the main key from what I gathered last night. I'm excited to hit the range to try hitting the shots more now.

So Rafi, you are pretty much dead on according to Stuart Appleby.

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Posted
Rafi, thats about the best and simplest explanation I've ever heard for hitting draws and fades. You da man.

Jeff

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Scotty Cameron NP2, 33"

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Posted
As far as the driver is concerned:

Step One: have a driver that has a 1* open face and NOT a draw biased club like is popular now.
Step Two: keep it as simple as possible using ball positioning first and see how you do with this.
Move the ball up in your stance for a fade, and set the club naturally with the 1* open doing the work for you, this will produce a slight fade.
For the draw move the ball back in your stance and square the club with 1* closed at address, and try to hit the ball down the middle, don't try and pull it.

If you want a bigger draw then that's when you need to do the V with your feet and club, but this can lead to many disasters.

Same thing with a big fade, opening the stance can open you up to a lot of trouble. The pro's usually don't hit sweeping fades or draws, they just want a little bend and tail on it so that it kicks down the fairway in the right direction.

The worst that can happen with this method is that you'll hit it dead straight which usually isn't too bad. Also the ball you use has an effect, the high spin balls like the HXTour56 and ProV1 will bend more then the ProV1x, HXTour, TP Red/Black

2009 Burner R
FT-I Fusion Squareway 3W 15* Fujikura Speeder Fit-On R
5W R7 R
FT Fusion Hybrids Draw 3/21*, 4/24*
G5 5-PW X-forged Vintage: 52.12, 56.14MDScotty Cameron: Newport 2 ProV1


Posted
LOL, I was trying a similar method hitting range balls with my new Nike SQ driver and they wouldnt do anything except fly straight. The only way I would get them cut in any direction was to open up the face big time. I then resorted to "ole trusty" (TaylorMade 320) and no problems. I like the Nike driver since it has a much better feel when cutting throught the air on the downswing and I consistently have club head speeds in excess of 118mph compared to the 117mph on "ole trusty".

I had a similar situation with the Cleveland HiBore, some of the newer clubs are designed to hit it straight no matter what! Workability is a problem.

Now I use the Tayor Made R7 425 TP with the 1* open clubface and it is very easy to work the ball with just small adjustments of ball position and clubface. What I found is that there is no need to overdo the set up like that which is necessary when trying to shape shots with clubs like the HiBore or Nike SQ which do require excessive adjustments.

2009 Burner R
FT-I Fusion Squareway 3W 15* Fujikura Speeder Fit-On R
5W R7 R
FT Fusion Hybrids Draw 3/21*, 4/24*
G5 5-PW X-forged Vintage: 52.12, 56.14MDScotty Cameron: Newport 2 ProV1


Posted

Thanks for the advice guys and for keeping it nice and simple!!! will try these out and let you know how i get on!!


Posted
You might want to try experimenting with some of these tips. For a fade open your stance up and bring the club slightly outside on your takeaway. On the downswing feel like you are coming over the top and hold your release. To hit a draw close you stance a bit and slightly hood the clubface at address. On your down swing feel like you drop the club under a bit and release the club. Hope this helps!
Elizabeth

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
the most important thing you want to lign up to the right are your shoulders, not your feet. Most amateurs stand to the ball with a closed stance and open shoulders.

Note: This thread is 6995 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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