Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5421 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Right now I only have 2 wedges, a Gap wedge and a 56 (CG14). My irons are from 4-PW and also have a R9 driver and a Nike SQ 5 wood, and will also be adding something in between my 4 and my 5 wood (suggestions please!!!). My gap wedge is a 49 degree which I hit about 100-110 yards. I really use my 56 around the green and sand, since I'm not confident in it yet from 50-60 yards. Therefore, what would you get in this situation?


Posted


Originally Posted by DannyB215

Right now I only have 2 wedges, a Gap wedge and a 56 (CG14). My irons are from 4-PW and also have a R9 driver and a Nike SQ 5 wood, and will also be adding something in between my 4 and my 5 wood (suggestions please!!!). My gap wedge is a 49 degree which I hit about 100-110 yards. I really use my 56 around the green and sand, since I'm not confident in it yet from 50-60 yards. Therefore, what would you get in this situation?


It seem like you have 3 wedges.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

The addition of a lob wedge is a personal call, and many "experts" say that high-mid handicappers don't need anything more lofted than a sand wedge.  What's your game like?  Do you need more loft in your short game?  I am trying to ween myself off of my 60* wedge, as it usually contributed more harm than good.  I have a grind on my SW that helps me open it up a lot more, so the LW is becoming redundant anyway.  For someone with your handicap (a mid capper like myself), bridging the gaps in your long irons/hybrids is more important, in my opinion.


Posted


Originally Posted by DannyB215

Right now I only have 2 wedges, a Gap wedge and a 56 (CG14). My irons are from 4-PW and also have a R9 driver and a Nike SQ 5 wood, and will also be adding something in between my 4 and my 5 wood (suggestions please!!!). My gap wedge is a 49 degree which I hit about 100-110 yards. I really use my 56 around the green and sand, since I'm not confident in it yet from 50-60 yards. Therefore, what would you get in this situation?

If your gap is a 49 the question is what is your PW????  Is it a 46 or 49 so in essence you may be carrying 2 clubs the same loft or at least very close.  Find out your PW loft and work out from there 5 degrees for covering the various yardages.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip


Posted


Originally Posted by weavej2

If your gap is a 49 the question is what is your PW????  Is it a 46 or 49 so in essence you may be carrying 2 clubs the same loft or at least very close.  Find out your PW loft and work out from there 5 degrees for covering the various yardages.



Gap wedge is 49 and PW is 44. I JUST got the new JPX 800's, so now I might do a 54 and a 58 degree, and trade in my 56.


Posted

Quote:

Gap wedge is 49 and PW is 44. I JUST got the new JPX 800's, so now I might do a 54 and a 58 degree, and trade in my 56. ...

---------------------------------------------------

...Actually, could GG or Golf smith bend my 56 to 54? Or do you recommend getting a new club.

What is the distance gap between PW and GW, and GW and SW? Consider a change which will get you about equal distances between the three. This might involve bending the GW to 50*. You'll just have to test it out, considering the CG14 is a different model club.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I hit my PW 130-135...GW 100-110...SW..Don't really use my CG14 outside of the green, as it's a club that I don't trust yet, and I'm considering changing it. I definitely need a club that I can hit from 70-90 yards...I can hit the 56 degree about 50 yards.


Posted

To me it's all about finding a wedge you are confident with around the green.  Whether it be a PW, GW, SW or LW.

I was clubbing a PW and 54 degree SW and then added a Vokey 60.4 degree wedge and to be honest it was the best addition to my bag in a long time.

Even at my handicap (19/20 range) I feel its super easy to hit.  From full on shots (about 60-70yds down to greenside work).

To get used to it I chipped around the yard for about a month before I took it to the course.

The only shot I dont use it for is short bump and runs around the green (I prefer a 7 iron with a putting stroke for those).  Love it for 30-40yd pitches where I can hit it higher and let it release on the green and run up to the hole (I don't generate much spin so this shot works well for me).

Even pitched one in from that distance last season and put many within 18" of the hole.  I've never been able to get that accurate with any other wedge before.

The key was really in the fact that I spent alot of time around the yard hitting all my wedges about 15-20 yards.  I felt out of my 48 deg, 54 deg and 60deg the 60deg for me was the easist to get the ball up into the air and the most accurate.  That builds confidence for the course.

Also another consideration regarding the # of wedges you play is how accurate you want to be with shorter shots.  I know my PW goes about 115-120, my 54 degree about 80-100 depending on how hard I swing and my 60 covers anything under that.  I have a GPS unit so I know my yardages and can then hit a full shot with the right club instead of trying to take some off with the next club up.  This has helped lower my score as well.  This year I am adding a GW so I will have a 45, 50, 54 and 60 degree in my arsenal.  I would rather give up  a long club because my odds of hitting a green that is 230 away with a 3w is slim to none.  I would rather hit it 200 with a hybrid then have a short shot remaining that I can try and snug up close.

Even considering bending my 54 to a 55 just so I have the 5 degrees of separation between all of them, but I don't know if I am even good enough to notice a degree.

Driver: Ping G25

3w - Ping K15

3h - TEE Trilogy

4h - TEE Trilogy

5h - TEE Trilogy

Irons: Ping G25 6-LW

Putter: Odyssey White Ice D.A.R.T
Bag: Nike SQ Tour

Optics: Bushnell Tour V2 Slope

Shoes: True Linkswear


Posted

Quote:

I hit my PW 130-135...GW 100-110...SW..Don't really use my CG14 outside of the green, as it's a club that I don't trust yet, and I'm considering changing it. I definitely need a club that I can hit from 70-90 yards...I can hit the 56 degree about 50 yards.

What is the bounce on your 56 degree CG14? Is it 11º (one dot) or 14º (two dot)? If it is 14º, you might be having trouble with too much bounce if you use it from tighter lies. Cleveland dealers offer "wedge fittings" in which they gauge how much bounce you need for a fairway type shot. Higher bounce clubs dig in less on shots, but some people have trouble with too much bounce. Have someone check out your 56º set up, see if you do something unusual with just that club. Also, given your other wedge distances, you should be getting more than 50 yds. from a 56* club.

Sometimes a club just doesn't work for you. I was the other way - had major trouble with a 50º X20 gap wedge, but did super with a 50º CG14 I picked up last year to replace it.

Or, you might want to trade in the CG14 (plus a little cash) for the JPX set SW. Looks like other JPX wedges work for you.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

It might not be a bad idea to add a 58 or 60 degree wedge.  That would give you the ability to hit a nice little greenside flop shot.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted

Trading in for the JPX SW doesn't sound like a bad idea...We'll see..I literally just got my JPX's delivered last week, and tomorrow will be my second time at the range with them. (Live in Philly, finally getting a 60 degree day here!!) As I continue to grab the feel for these clubs, I think I'll make my adjustment accordingly. Thanks for the help!!!


Posted


Originally Posted by DannyB215

Trading in for the JPX SW doesn't sound like a bad idea...We'll see..



I would go this route!!

Cleveland Hibore XLS Driver: Nike Ignite2 Irons: Adams SW and LW: Odyssey White Hot Mallet: Bridgestone e6 and TreoSoft Balls etc...


Posted


Originally Posted by DannyB215

Trading in for the JPX SW doesn't sound like a bad idea...We'll see..I literally just got my JPX's delivered last week, and tomorrow will be my second time at the range with them. (Live in Philly, finally getting a 60 degree day here!!) As I continue to grab the feel for these clubs, I think I'll make my adjustment accordingly. Thanks for the help!!!



I've never hit a set matching sand wedge I liked, but maybe the JPX is different. You can pick up Vokeys and 588s for dirt cheap on ebay. People were brainwashed into dumping them because of their "nonconforming" grooves and you could experiment with loft and bounce combinations without spending a lot of cash.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

i'm using a pw, 51( bounce ground to 4*), 56 (bounce ground to 8*), 60, and a 73.  it's a matter of distance desired, ability to shape the shot, and your own confidence.  do your own experimenting to find what works for you.  go to the Goodwill or whatever thrift store is local and buy a couple old wedges, and while you're there look for a grinder or grinding wheel.  look up "wedge grinding" on the 'net and try it out for yourself.

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter


Posted

To the OP, I think you're good with what you've got.  I think you'll hit the hybrid/5-wood more often than the 60* wedge.  And if you really need a 60* from the sand or to hit a flop, it's pretty simple to just open up the 56* a bit.

What's in the Bag:
Driver: Taylormade SLDR 12*
3-wood: Taylormade Burner 15*
Hybrid: Taylormade Burner 19*
Irons: Callaway XR

Wedges: Vokey 50*, 54*, 58*
Putter: Scotty Newport Studio


Posted


Originally Posted by nickel_aTm

To the OP, I think you're good with what you've got.  I think you'll hit the hybrid/5-wood more often than the 60* wedge.  And if you really need a 60* from the sand or to hit a flop, it's pretty simple to just open up the 56* a bit.

I have a 53 degree Cleveland 588 that's easier to open up and hit a high lob than the 57* 588 I pair it with. From 95 yards, from the rough, and from the sand the 57* is fantastic. For just about anything else around the green, the 53* is a better choice. My point is, just because one person can open up their 56 and hit a high lob, doesn't mean the next guy can do it. It takes a certain amount of skill and the right grind on your wedge.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5421 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 1: 2025.12.26 Worked on LH position on grip, trying to keep fingers closer to perpendicular to the club. Feels awkward but change is meant to.
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.