Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5425 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

I serious about learn to play properly.

I shoot 100 so obviously i'm a new player but getting there.

I'm taking some lessons to work on my swing and get good habits.

I got Phil Mikelson's dvd (shortage).

It's simple and it really makes sense to me.

I have 4-GW.

I want to get a  sand and lob wedge (60 degrees...which he says he uses for all chipping)

Any suggestions which wedges I should buy?

I want to grow into something but also be able to hit it well now.

Is there a big difference between a forgiving wedge and a pro wedge?

I used Phil's technique for a basic chip shot at the range using my gap wedge and it worked

well for the first time.

Thanks for your input!


Posted

First of all, I love that Phil Mickelson short game DVD.  Made a big difference for me.  As to wedges, generally speaking, Cleveland is a great place to start.  Going back to their 588 wedges, and through their current offerings, I've hardly read a bad thing about their wedges, CG10, CG11, etc.  Some are bit more forgiving than others, some have a different look, but they are generally all good.  Of course, Titleist Vokey wedges are very popular as well, and Nike, Mizuno, etc. all make good wedges.

That said, I would suggest you pick up some new or used Cleveland CG14 wedges.  I haven't played a ton of wedges, and I am by no means an expert at the short game, but I find the CG14's (I have the Black Pearl versions) to be forgiving (as far as wedges go), and very comfortable to use.  I have 52, 54, 56, 58 and 60* in the CG14's, though I generally play the 54* and 58*.  These should run you about $40 and up in nice used condition.  I've acquired all of mine within the past month or two from the used websites.

I also have a full set of Ping iWedges, and those are very forgiving as far as wedges go.  The iWedges are totally out of production though, so you'd have to do some work building a collection of those.

Equipment:
Ping K15 Driver (10.5º) - Diamana BB R flex; Ping G15 4 Wood (TFC R flex); Ping G15 20* Hybrid (TFC R flex); Ping G15 23* and 27* Hybrids (AWT R flex steel); Ping G15 Irons 6-GW (AWT R flex steel); Ping I-Wedge 54* Wedge; CG14 BP 58* Wedge; Odyssey Black Series Tour Designs #9 Putter


Posted

Very few golfers have the same qualities Phil has, so for 95% and maybe even more using a 60* wedge for all chipping is asking for trouble.

Besides that I would advise not to look for wedges for a mid handicapper like you, but to go for the best you can afford ....... there is no difference between wedges for a 25 capper and wedges for a scratch player, we all want good wedges.

Most golfers end up with Cleveland or Bob Vokey wedges, while really low handicappers mostly use Bob Vokey wedges, while some prefer the Mizuno forged wedges.

What wedges to chose ..... depends a bit on the conditions and the loft of your GW.

A 58* is also a great wedge and it is less critical than a 60*

Browse the forum ..... there is a huge info on wedges !

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter


Posted

using a 60 or any other wedge is only trouble if you don't put in the time to practice and learn the club.  Its no different than hitting the 7 iron bump(which I can't do..no practice) but I can use a 60 and hit any kind of shot I want around the green with moderate to perfect success.

Point being..with any degree wedge..its all about practice..can't expect to just pick them up and everything work great.

My philosophy on golf "We're not doing rocket science, here."


Posted

A lot of it is personal - how you feel with the wedge yourself. Try some out on your local range, see what feels a good weight and balance, looks nice and you feel confident with at address, and that has a nice feel/sound off the clubface. Generally you can't go too far wrong with manufacturers, the technology nowadays makes little difference to high handicappers like you or I - I have 52/56/60 Nike SV wedges but as mentioned already, the 60 may take a little practice - I mostly use it when I need to hit a high, soft lob or when I've not got much green to work with from a bunker etc. - my 56 sand wedge is my go-to club for 95% of chips/pitches around the greens. Talk to your local pro shop about bounce on the wedges, which will I would say will affect you more than the loft itself.


Posted

Previous responders have hit all the major points.

As noted, 60* is difficult for a lot of people to use. I  found that a 58* is more forgiving. Also, make sure you understand bounce in wedges, and what bounce you need for your swing. (Just search "Wedge and Bounce" and you'll find plenty of Sand Trap info on it).

Also, managing four instead of three wedges takes a lot of practice time. Last season I played with PW, GW and SW. I dumped the 56* SW, and now have a 54* and 58*, and four wedges is a lot to keep track of. I may dump the last two and go back to a 56* for sand and pop shots around the green.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Thanks for all the replies and great info.

Many thing to learn.

I think I will focus on the proper swing etc and learn more about wedges.


Posted

I needed a new wedge after buying my new irons. After speaking with my fitter, I went with Vokey 56/11.  I've learned 3 different shots with it rather quickly.

I can lay it open for more loft and bounce, play it straight  for a bit longer shots to the green, or close it up for those little bump and run shots. I love this club !!

For me, the 56/11 gives me the ability to hit different shots with ease.

Burner 2.0 Graphite 4-AW
09 Burner 10.5*
08 #3 Burner 15*
09 Burner 3H
09 Burner 4H
TM-110 putter

Vokey 56.11
Titleist NXT 


  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

We have the same handicap and I have a Vokey SM 56/11. As I get better it's becoming my best friend :-)

910D2 9.5°
 Baffler Rail Fairway 3F 15.5°
IDEA Tech V3 3i 19°

G20 Hybrid  23°
JPX800PRO 5-GW

SM 56°, 64°
  KOMBI-S Mid 43"


Posted
I tried to make a thread about this yesterday but i couldnt. So basically i am just wondering if the label on the wedge is as big a deal as other clubs. Im a mid-high capper who has only been playing for a couple momths (im not a bad player by any means i hit beautiful shots frequently) and im interested in getting new wedges. Currently i have the adams tight lies plus 52'/56' and a cleveland cg60' and im thinking about selling them and going with something cheaper (the only one i use consistently is the 60 anyway). I was thinking about getting this set http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Affinity-Golf-REVO-3-Piece-Wedge-Set-52-56-60-/380350179525?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item588ea328c5#ht_2179wt_922 For just $50 i love the white coat on the back and i highly doubt the quality is just terri le, so im thinking for probably my worst area of my game, might as well get something cheap, that looks good, and i like. Any suggestions?

Posted

I went with the Vokey 56/11 and 60/7.

I love chipping and short game shots so this is all great.

Over the weekend, I actually made a 20 yard shot out of the sand......

and I also mishit many shots.

It true, its the rare great shots that keep you coming back.


Note: This thread is 5425 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I would think of it in terms of time. The time it takes to get the arm angle into a good position to deliver the club with proper shaft lean. Another component is rotation, but that is also a matter of timing. It relates to how the body stalls to give the golfer time to hit the ball. If you have to get 80+ degrees out of that right elbow in one third of a second versus 50 degrees in the same time then you have to steal time from somewhere. It is usually body rotation. That does not help with shaft lean.  I agree in that amateurs tend to make the swing more complicated than pro golfers. 
    • I haven't been able to practice like I wanted and won't for the next week.  1. The weather sucks in Ohio this year. I have been mostly inside hitting foam balls. Just kind of my basic stuff.  2. I woke up last Saturday with a left side rib muscle on fire. If I turned or leaned a certain way it would spasm that almost buckled my knees. I have been taking a break to let that settle. I don't want to get a long term injury. I think I pinched a nerve or just aggravated a muscles.   3. I am going on a mini-vacation to Florida (screw you Ohio weather) with a friend, and rolling that into a work conference I have next week. I will be with out my clubs for a week.  I will be back next in two Fridays to hit the ground running with some warmer temps and better weather in Ohio, hopefully. I would really like to get more out on the course and the range.     
    • Day 580 - 2026-05-04 Played eight holes. Sometimes golf kicks you in the nuts. 😉 
    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.