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Posted

First real season of golf, looking to fine tune my swing a bit before I take a shot at lessons.

I (quite obviously) slice the heck out of the ball with my driver. Doesn't seem to be as much of an issue with irons, slightly less so on fairway woods. From the videos and scuff marks on the bottom of my driver it looks like an outside-in swing. I'm just not sure how to fix it.

Do your worst, any comments/critiques are very very very more than welcome. Thanks a bunch!

(duffed the 2nd one, whoops)


Posted

A drill I did for a while that really helped me hit a nice controlled fade was to place a ball in a straight line behind the tee about 2-3 feet, and to make sure I hit that ball on my takeaway.  It will help to keep the club on plane.


Posted

Hey man, boy do you ever come over the top. But with that being said that is really the only part that looks horrible. I'm no teacher by any stretch of the imagination. But you should try this one simple swing thought. Try bringing your rear shoulder down, under and to the ball while keeping your spine angle... I really think you would have a nice little swing after doing that. Best of luck man.


Posted

From the front view you haven't got enough of a shoulder turn. Try visualizing hitting one over the 2nd baseman rather than over the shorstop. Also that dejected "I give up" finish position is probably not helping.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5413 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
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