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Posted

This is pretty much the part of my game that is holding me back. I don't have any hybrids and I want to learn how to use these clubs. Off the tee I'm totally fine, the problem is with the 4,5,and 6 iron since the loft is lesser I'm having a very big problem with topping the ball. I can't make clean contact at all and I have no idea why. Any ideas?


Posted
Those clubs are just like all your other clubs, next time you swing your 4 iron pretend it is your 8 iron... Same swing for every club in your bag... I'll send you an invoice!

Posted

I mean honestly, I'll admit that it is in my head. I played a round today and tried using these clubs on the front 9. The back 9 I limited myself to a 7-A and I shot a lot better but it limits what I can do. For example If I'm 200 out that 4 iron would come in handy if I could make clean contact. I continually top the shop and it's so frustrating. Instead Ill use my 7 iron and max out around 140/150. Back to the grind tomorrow.


Posted

Yeah I've been hitting my long clubs horribly lately. I haven't been out yet but on the range i've improved by focusing on taking 3/4 swings. For me it must've been mental, me trying to hit the ball harder with a club thats supposed to go longer. Turned out taking 3/4 swings I lost almost no distance but was hitting them straight and long :)

:whistle:

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Posted

It's the same problem for me. I swing extra hard because I want the ball to go 200 yards, and in my head now...I don't even want to use any of them because I figured I'll top it and it will go 20 yards. Pretty frustrating.


Posted

Easiest to hit long irons I have ever played are TM Firesole irons.  I hit a bucket yesterday at Big Oak golf and concentrated when I first started on my 4 iron, thinking it may have been a fluke I hit it so well when I played 9 Fri.  Well it wasn't apparently.  I have two different sets of Firesoles, a tour grind model with gaphite shafts, Pro Launch or Pro Logic or something like that.  The second set are steel shafted DG S300 with seniscore, and these are labeled custom series.  Other than those differences, steel vs graphite, and one set says tour and the other custom series they appear identical to me.

Bottom line though is that I hit the DG 300 4 iron as well as the graphite 4 iron.  I could hit a fade or a draw depending on a open or closed stance and hand position staying the same on the grip.  I also bought a set of Nickent XD3 hybrid's a 3 and 4 in regular flex and can't hit them to save my life.  I'll tell ya something else too and that is the long irons feel better to me when hitting them than do the shorter irons in the Firesoles.  I can feel the shaft kick in either the steel or the graphite.  So that is my take on it.  TM Firesoles have the best hitting and feeling long irons I've ever  hit.

Now a trick to long irons is to do what Nicklaus used to do and alot of other tour players.  Have your 2-4 reshafted with senior flex shafts.  Like Nicklaus said in his book, long irons were for getting the ball down the fairway in the general direction of the pin.  He then had his scoring clubs 9-sw shafted in X stiff so they wouldn't go off line but were very accurate.  I think that is the deal.  thanks


Posted


Originally Posted by longbow

Like Nicklaus said in his book . . .



Which book is that? I've read a few Nicklaus books and never read that nugget of wisdom.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

I think it is in Golf my Way.  I could be wrong though, but I do know he initiated this piece of advice.  He was talking about his club make up.  He said he used an A flex or senior flex in his long irons, stiff in the mid irons and Xstiff in his scoring irons.  My brother mentioned once when he was writing a golf column for his newspaper, The Daily News, that he saw several tour players using this advice.  But this was back in the 90's I do believe.  Stands to reason though.  Matter of fact the shafts in my Firesoles feel as though they might be a softer flex in the long irons, even though the set is marked stiff, maybe they were tipped soft or something when they were made up.  I just feel the kick of the shaft more pronounced in the long irons vs the short irons and I am talking 6-pw.  I just don't get that release feeling with the short irons as I do with the long irons.  thanks


Posted



Originally Posted by longbow

I think it is in Golf my Way.  I could be wrong though, but I do know he initiated this piece of advice.  He was talking about his club make up.  He said he used an A flex or senior flex in his long irons, stiff in the mid irons and Xstiff in his scoring irons.  My brother mentioned once when he was writing a golf column for his newspaper, The Daily News, that he saw several tour players using this advice.  But this was back in the 90's I do believe.  Stands to reason though.  Matter of fact the shafts in my Firesoles feel as though they might be a softer flex in the long irons, even though the set is marked stiff, maybe they were tipped soft or something when they were made up.  I just feel the kick of the shaft more pronounced in the long irons vs the short irons and I am talking 6-pw.  I just don't get that release feeling with the short irons as I do with the long irons.  thanks



I've had a few sets of blades from the 80s and 90s, and if anything the long irons have even stiffer shafts than the short irons. Maybe they're duds and that's why I got them so cheap.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

Id agree that its probably all mental and that youre swinging too hard and not trusting the loft of the club to get the ball in the air.  Try playing the ball slightly forward in your stance, sweep it off the ground and just swing nice and easy.

That and considering investing in a hybrid.  They are much easier to hit the long irons.  Ive never been a huge fan of hybrids but even at my worst I still hit hybrids better than long irons.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted

I was hitting my 6 iron and above just fine and as soon as I went down to my 5 iron through 3 I would really, really struggle. I would slice them, hook them, top them, chunk them, you name it. I was working with one of the kids on the golf team and he was struggling with his six and five iron and I noticed he was standing too close and told him to back up a little. Made sure each club lower he would keep the same hand position but it would put him just a little further away with each club. He began hitting them clean, that's when the lightbulb went on for me..lol. Now I'm hitting them better then ever, hit my first 5 iron last night about 195 yards, flew the green badly, couldn't believe it. You might be standing a little too close, and make sure your back swing is smooth, not fast.

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Posted

Well...I went out today and played and I used my 6 iron a ton and was hitting the dead straight around 160-170, which was totally awesome. I topped a few of my shots early with my 5 iron, so I decided to not use the club at all. 6 iron down, 4 and 5 irons to go. The only problem I had today was that I kept slicing my driver. Is it possible to be able to hit your irons dead straight, but slice your driver?


Posted

Absolutely, I can hit all of my irons and my 3 wood straight or how ever I wanted to work, more often then not..lol. I hit my 3 wood off the tee around 225 yards but I would take out the driver and slice it about 180 yards. So yes, it is very possible. I was swinging my driver quite a bit differently then everything else and with a few different fixes I had it down to a nice fade and have been hitting it around 230-240 with a nice fade this year. However, I have to be very careful for it to not turn into a slice. I was out with the golf pro yesterday and he made one more change on my take away and now I am hitting it dead straight without a hint of even a fade.

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Posted

I was taking it so straight back it was going a little outside on the start of my backswing. He just told me to starte my backswing more inside and that's all it took, straightened it out on the first shot. Only problem is the hole angles to the right after about 100 yards so I usually hit a strong fade/small slice on purpose on that hole which always put me center of the fairway. Did my usual setup to hit it with the change he showed me at put two balls as straight as can be right into the woods, wasn't the hole to try it on..lol. The next hole was a straight hole and I hit it 248 yards on the nose. I put it about 4" from the 150 yard marker that is in the ground, made it easy to know how far I hit it..lol, again, it was dead straight, no fade or draw at all.

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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