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Originally Posted by Jon Robert

The 2 club pictures show clubs with hollow pocket design. I have never actually seen inside the Taylormande but it may be space free of plastic, rubber etc.

1) I place the club in a vise making sure the scoring lines are level to a spirit level. (level to gravity and not the vice)  another person may want to tilt it one way or another so the liquid lead will favor the toe or heal. Mine is level.

2) I take a  scale of some sort to weigh out the lead. I am using 2 ounces and this will fill the club pocket about 1/3 full thus it stands to reason that if I filled the Hogan Apex Edge full I would have added about 6 ounces. (I did do that but it was too much) Obviously the more accurate the scale the more perfect the result but a cheap small 1# kitchen scale will work

I have collected lead over the years from plumbing sewer pipes, wheel weights etc.

3) I have an actual lead ladle but a metal kitchen ladle can suffice. I use an ordinary propane torch that is sold in every store. I melt the lead and then move the flame under the ladle to keep it molten as I pour.

4) I pour in the lead, turn off the torch set aside and about that time the lead has solidified. I remove from the vice and dunk it in water. I cool it so any heat does not soften the epoxy holding the head to shaft.

5) Dry it out with a hair dryer or whatever. I place clear silicon caulk in the remaining 2/3 of the pocket and smooth with my finger and let dry.  You would never notice the weighting unless looking carefully.

The entire process takes about 5-10 minutes per club. But a first timer should take their time as there is no reason to rush anything except the heating pouring combination.

I have removed the lead to experiment several times. I use a drill and bit to drill holes in the lead at an angle that is allowed to do it.. This provides reliefs and voids to allow movement when I pry the lead out with a narrow screw driver.

For flat back clubs I have contact cemented lead to the back. The contact cement is a bear to remove if removing the lead. I have tried to burn it off and high speed wire wheel it off. I learned to soak them overnight with GOOP waterless hand cleaner globbed on the cement. The cement softens into yuck and then wipes off.  I don't remember now 15 years later but I think I glued about 6 or 8 ounces to the backs to experiment.

cool! can you post a pic of one of your irons back, so i can see how it is when finished?

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Originally Posted by ulle73

i don't really get it, how you added weight to it...

In the angle shot you are looking down into the hollow pocket. You are seeing the clear silicone caulk. Beneath the silicone caulk is 2 ounces of lead that was poured into the hollow cavity.  As I said the alteration is hardly noticed and the club remains "pretty" looking as opposed to ugly

The finished result is similar to the Apex Edge PRO The PRO has no hollow cavity and comes "full" of steel.  I could not do this to the "PRO" version

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ps here is a 4 iron that has no caulk in it. I filled the entire cavity and determined that it was too much. I chiseled out enough to equal 2 ounces remaining and then added a little lead tape to make it perfect. I just never got around to putting the caulk in yet. Same with my three iron. I'll get to it someday.

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Originally Posted by Jon Robert

ps here is a 4 iron that has no caulk in it. I filled the entire cavity and determined that it was too much. I chiseled out enough to equal 2 ounces remaining and then added a little lead tape to make it perfect. I just never got around to putting the caulk in yet. Same with my three iron. I'll get to it someday.

where do you buy the stuff for this? the silicon and the other thing?

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Originally Posted by Jon Robert

If you remove wheel weights forever try GOOP waterless handcleaner globs to soak overnight to remove evidence of glue.

note:  OBVIOUSLY MOLTEN LEAD AT HUNDREDS OF DEGREES REQUIERES SAFETY GLASSES / PROCEEDURES.

Jon you are the man with the wheel weight idea. I thought that  I had thought of everything.  I was about to have one of my aircraft machinist friends drill holes into my clubs and then cut tungsten bars to replace what was cut out just James Patrick does.  I still might do it when I am certain of what weight I need in each club because I am going to be playing my irons for a long time because it took me so long to get them to this point where I am happy with the weight of them. I thought I was alone in thinking that ultra lightweight clubs are absolute junk.  It is always funny when I do my Tour Lock fittings that people think that there is no way that a heavier club will increase their distance because when I hand them the club with the weight in it hate it but then when they hit the clubs, they don't want to give it back.!  I have never EVER had anyone not gain at least 10 yards with every club in their bag when I do my tour lock fittings.  Their eyes just light up!

Sergio Garcia uses these weights in his clubs along with a lot of tour pros and that is part of the reason for all the lag he creates using the weight of the club. Hand him a shaft and a grip and see how much lag he creates.....NONE....unless he manipulates the club by trying to hold his wrist cock.

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Originally Posted by ulle73

"

where do you buy the stuff for this? the silicon and the other thing?"

The torch, small level, and small tube of silicone caulk can be found at any hardware store. Home Depot, Menards etc.  The ladle there maybe and check the kitchen section. Try a hardware store for the ladle and lead.  If not get a heavy metal ladle from a kitchen store. Of course some gloves safety goggles etc.  If no lead there then go to a fishing store and buy cheap lead sinkers. You may want to buy a ladle from a mail order fishing store. they sell them for making your own sinkers.   In my case I would need 22 ounces to do my 11 irons.

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a bit off topic, but my only experience is with heavy putters ... I played an extremely heavy oversize putter earlier this year & the last few months, was some of the most consistently awful putting I've ever seen - it worked great for long lag puts, but for short finesse putts, just had no feedback/feel.     I was stubborn & figured it was me & not the putter.    I eventually found a very light aluminum bladed putter & what a difference ... my putting has never been better - after all, its all about feel.

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Originally Posted by inthehole

a bit off topic, but my only experience is with heavy putters ... I played an extremely heavy oversize putter earlier this year & the last few months, was some of the most consistently awful putting I've ever seen - it worked great for long lag puts, but for short finesse putts, just had no feedback/feel.     I was stubborn & figured it was me & not the putter.    I eventually found a very light aluminum bladed putter & what a difference ... my putting has never been better - after all, its all about feel.

That doesn't surprise me and what I've found is that the weight that is put on the head is for ensuring that you feel the clubhead tracking it's arch.  If you put too much weight into the head of the club you will  begin to lose feel.  My putter has a 150 gram weight in the shaft and an 80 gram counterweight, and then I put a 8 grams of tungsten powder down the shaft near the clubhead and I love it.  I can still feel where the ball hits the clubface because the MOI of the clubhead isn't so high and will still react to off center contact.  The thing with the internal weights is that once you move the weight past a 14 inch depth you begin to increase swingweight but no weight is being added to the clubhead and that is a big deal because your club will still retain it's feel.  What I love about heavier clubs is that it automatically activates the proper grip pressure needed because the club is perceived to be heavy even though the 165 grams extra that I have added to my clubs is a lil over a 1/4 pound.  It's all about how the weight is distributed through the club that makes all the difference.

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Here is some more interesting tid bits:

"Back-weighting clubs is not knew. Jack Nicklaus back-weighted clubs, as do a number of tour players. The process of back-weighting clubs has been somewhat cumbersome, requiring drilling through the end of the grip. The Secret Grip accomplishes the same thing simply by changing the grip.

"None of the average golfers know anything about back-weighting," Boccieri said. "Jack Nicklaus used it in his day and people throughout the tour do it, but it's kind of behind closed doors, basically...."



Read More http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equipment/blogs/newstuff/2012/01#ixzz22hG5d0nr "

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  • 1 month later...

By the way Jon I made it to the U.S. and got the wheel weights put on my clubs and I immediately knew that my intuition was correct in wanting to put weight on the toe of my clubs because it immediately worked.  I even gained about a half club from releasin the club more aggressively.  I still want to get JP to put the permanent weights in my clubs but for sure in the short term that was the fix.  Thanks again for your help.

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