Buying a used driver online, but getting fit in a store first - is this bad form?

[Desert]

Background - I'm going to be buying a used driver relatively soon.  I'm a high-handicapper (shoot right at 100), relative beginner, and am starting lessons.  The biggest reasons for my high scoring are three putts and a total inability to hit a driver resulting in a push slice. I'm pretty good with my irons and chipping/pitching (definitely good enough that if my driving and putting were at similar levels I'd be breaking 90). I am slowly starting to figure out the driver. I have a friend's Ping G5 with a stiff shaft, and I know the shaft is wrong for my SS (I was a 92 when I swung a driver during my iron fitting at Ping). My friend needs the driver back, so, I am going to buy a used driver - still not sure which one, but that is for a different thread.

It appears that the fit of any particular driver is significantly dependent on the shaft.  Ideally, I would like to test drive a driver before buying it.  However, the big box golf stores around me completely jack up their prices on used drivers.  I mean, as an example, a Cobra Amp that shows obvious signs of significant use was marked $189 at Golfsmith when you can get it new at Dicks for $169 and used at Callaway Preowned for about $125.

Is it bad form to go to Golfsmith, PGA Superstore, etc. to get "fitted" for a driver, and to hit used drivers, but then buy it elsewhere? Will these places negotiate prices?  Still trying to figure out golf etiquette on the retail side.

[bukifvr]

I don't think its bad form.  They know that may happen, that why they usually charge a fee for a custom fitting.  Then if you buy a club from them, they waive the fee.  Either way they get paid for their time.

[Desert]

An update: I swung by Golfsmith on the way home from work tonight to take a closer look at their prices for used drivers. Place was completely dead. Salesman came up to me and I was honest. Said I'm looking for a used driver to save costs, i'd like to be fitted, but can't promise I'll buy there if online is cheaper. He said no problem. Suggested some used clubs to look at, then showed me some brand new drivers from years past that were on sale. Asked me if i wanted to hit some on the launch monitor to get a better understanding of what to look for. Hit a total of 3 shots on a launch monitor with a Callaway Diablo Octane and Nike VRS Pro Limited, 10.5 Regular flex. Turns out my swing was 92-95. He suggested a stiff flex since my swing will likely get a bit faster with lessons and a regular may get too whippy. He also did not think an adjustable driver is necessary to bandaid a slice with a closed face. Apparently my swing isn't over-the-top as I feared, but rather the slice is due to not transferring my weight all the way through the shot consistently. When i eould do so, i hit the ball straight. Even when i didn't the shot started straight before slicing. Just need to work on closing the club face. For each club I had 1 mega-slice going about 190 yards, 1 slice going about 220, and 1 almost perfectly straight going 250. The interesting thing was that my launch angle was REALLY high (average of 20* for the 6 swings). The salesman wasn't sure if it was a swing flaw, or if I just naturally hit it high and would need a lower lofted driver. He said likely a bit of both. So I went from assuming I needed a 10.5* regular flex adjustable driver to a 9.5* stiff flex non-adjustable driver. Won't be buying until after lessons begin in June, but the hunt for my driver sure is fun as hell.

[solarbear]

I'd swing by another store and have a few swings with something else.  Just to see.

I think some lessons are definitely a geat idea.

[Desert]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to do that. I'll head to the PGA Superstore as well to check out their prices and to see what they suggest. Might even go over to Ping to do a driver fitting with them too. Not going to spend the cash for a new G25 but they'll give good information about shaft flex, SS, and loft.

[bukifvr]

Yeah, I'd definitely take some lessons and try to develop a more consistent swing, that will make picking a driver easier.  Also try to find some demo days in your area.  That's where a golf club manufacturer(s) make their clubs available for the public to try.  Nice thing is the manufacturers rep is there.  Even if you are not interested in buying their latest and greatest club, you can glean professional input as to what shaft and flex might be appropriate for you.  Its usually free, and though they want to sell you their club, they are aware that most people just want to check them out.  I think its really fun, and educational for your game.

[clearwaterms]

first off, read this article:

http://thesandtrap.com/b/playing_tips/ball_flight_laws

it will help you learn a lot about your slice.  In other words, the salesman at the store was incorrect about you not getting the club face closed.  In general, the face angle determines the initial trajectory and the club path determines the path of the ball.  An open club face with a square swing should result in a straight push compared to a square face with an over the top swing will result in a straight start with a slice at the end.

A 20 deg. launch is WAY high, going down 1 degree in club face will not fix that.  It could be an early release, the ball is too far forward, etc.  What ever it is, lessons should get it sorted out.  I believe at your swing speed you want something in the 13 to 15 degree range.

No standard exists for shaft rating.  What I mean is that one club rates something stiff, that another might rate as a regular.  The generally accepted rule is that you should swing the softest flex you can control.  Also, when getting a fitting, try to swing at 70%.  I know when I get fit, I try to swing as HARD AS I CAN.  The problem is that on the course, a swing for the fence often times results in a ball over the fence (onto a street, into a pond, in some body's pool, or worse)  And last but not least, never believe a launch monitor's distance.  At best, the carry MIGHT be somewhat accurate, but to be honest, most are overly optimistic to try to sell golf clubs.  The best option is always to compare the results against the club you currently game.  The last time I got fit for a new driver, I brought both drivers that I gamed last year into the store, and hit them compared to every club that they had in the store.  I picked the one that matched my swing the best.

Finally, remember that COR is maxed out on golf drivers, the reality is that one club to the next, you won't see a HUGE difference.  In other words, one club isn't going to give you a magical 280 yard draw when ever other club gives you a 230 yard slice.  I believe in adjustable drivers, especially for people like us who are still learning our swings.  I have an adjustable driver because it makes it easy for me to swap the shaft when I grow out of the one I have.  It also means I can open / close the face as I learn to fix the swing flaws that I have.

[Ernest Jones]

Originally Posted by clearwaterms

first off, read this article:

http://thesandtrap.com/b/playing_tips/ball_flight_laws

it will help you learn a lot about your slice.  In other words, the salesman at the store was incorrect about you not getting the club face closed.  In general, the face angle determines the initial trajectory and the club path determines the path of the ball.  An open club face with a square swing should result in a straight push compared to a square face with an over the top swing will result in a straight start with a slice at the end.

Not to nitpick but I believe an open face with a square swing (neutral path?) would result in a push (from the open face) slice (from the path being to the left of the face). A straight push would be an open face (push) and an in-to-out path that matchs (or is close) the face.

[clearwaterms]

Originally Posted by Ernest Jones

Not to nitpick but I believe an open face with a square swing (neutral path?) would result in a push (from the open face) slice (from the path being to the left of the face). A straight push would be an open face (push) and an in-to-out path that matchs (or is close) the face.

You are right, thank you for the correction.  The point I was trying to get across was that most golf store sales people get it backwards from the article that I posted.

If you start down the target line and then the ball slices, it is generally a result of a square (to the target) face combined with a in to out face path.  When you add to that the high launch angle, it is (not an expert, so this is my uneducated guess) a classic example of casting / flying elbow (early release and coming form the outside)

[Desert]

I definitely need to record my swing. What you describe sure doesn't sound like how my swing feels, but the results don't lie.

[bukifvr]

Originally Posted by clearwaterms

You are right, thank you for the correction.  The point I was trying to get across was that most golf store sales people get it backwards from the article that I posted.

If you start down the target line and then the ball slices, it is generally a result of a square (to the target) face combined with a in to out face path.  When you add to that the high launch angle, it is (not an expert, so this is my uneducated guess) a classic example of casting / flying elbow (early release and coming form the outside)

Sorry but I think you got your path backwards,  If the ball starts straight down the target line and then curves right, then the clubface would be square at impact and the path would be out to in.  The ball would fly straight at first because of the square clubface but then the sidespin would take over because of the out to in swing path, which causes the ball to curve to the right.

[clearwaterms]

Originally Posted by bukifvr

Sorry but I think you got your path backwards,  If the ball starts straight down the target line and then curves right, then the clubface would be square at impact and the path would be out to in.  The ball would fly straight at first because of the square clubface but then the sidespin would take over because of the out to in swing path, which causes the ball to curve to the right.

you are correct.  Out to in causes slice.