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Posted

Anyone out there using steel shafts in their fairway woods ?  I have a #3 Rocket Balz w/factory reg flex graphite.  It's a great club as far as disance (180) and ability to launch the ball, but I'm finding that it isn't as accurate as my old Callaway S2H2 that I replaced (steel shaft).  I was thinking of going to a TT/DG/Reg.  Any thoughts ?

F


Posted

I'm pretty sure @Lihu has played steel shafts in his woods for a while. Maybe he can chime in?

Henry

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Posted
I'm pretty sure @Lihu has played steel shafts in his woods for a while. Maybe he can chime in?

Steel is straighter and has way less spin. I hit more fairways than with graphite at a cost of only 20 yards. I would recommend only flexing up one notch, I think I over did it a bit. In general, expect shorter distances, but more short grass.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

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Posted

Thanks, kind of what I was thinking, I wasn't expecting a 20yd difference, 10 wouldn't have surprised me.  The club I'm thinking of re-shafting is a Rocket Balz 3 w/a stock Regular Flex graphite.  I get good distance but I'm all over the fairway.  I was thinking of going to a TT Multi-Step Lite with 1 hard step or a TT DG/SL with 1 hard step.  I have no trouble getting the ball in the air, just looking for as much consistency as I can and preserving the distance.  The Factory graphite shaft is definitely not the greatest.


Posted
Thanks, kind of what I was thinking, I wasn't expecting a 20yd difference, 10 wouldn't have surprised me.  The club I'm thinking of re-shafting is a Rocket Balz 3 w/a stock Regular Flex graphite.  I get good distance but I'm all over the fairway.  I was thinking of going to a TT Multi-Step Lite with 1 hard step or a TT DG/SL with 1 hard step.  I have no trouble getting the ball in the air, just looking for as much consistency as I can and preserving the distance.  The Factory graphite shaft is definitely not the greatest.


If you replace the regular shaft with an S300 Steel wood shaft, you should not lose too much distance. The heavier shaft will make up for the stiffer flex. The X100 from a regular will lose you the extra 10 yards you were not expecting.

The modern head with a steel shaft appears to be a very forgiving combination. Maybe too forgiving for my own good. . .

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Ahhh,I think I understand.  Going from graphite to steel you should go one notch stiffer, so to speak, to make up for the increase in shaft weight (which will slow the swing ?).  Did I get that right ?

:beer:


Posted

I disagree.....

Graphite shafts are very good these days.   Whether choosing graphite or steel, the key is finding a shaft flex that fits your swing.  The material is irrelevant.   I can't think of a reason why I'd ever play a steel shaft in any club longer than an iron.  Doing so is a step backwards.....

It's a step backwards for AMs too....

What's in Paul's Bag:
- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha Driver
- Big Bertha Alpha 815 3-wood
- Callaway Razr Fit 5-wood
- Callaway Big Bertha 4-5 Rescue Clubs
-- Mizuno Mx-25 six iron-gap wedge
- Mizuno Mp-T4 56degree SW
- Mizuno Mp-T11 60degree SW
- Putter- Ping Cadence Ketsch


Posted
Ahhh,I think I understand.  Going from graphite to steel you should go one notch stiffer, so to speak, to make up for the increase in shaft weight (which will slow the swing ?).  Did I get that right ? :beer:

Yes, you can verify this by doing frequency analysis on the club. [quote name="BuckeyeNut" url="/t/76776/steel-in-fairway-woods#post_1046728"]I disagree..... Graphite shafts are very good these days.   Whether choosing graphite or steel, the key is finding a shaft flex that fits your swing.  The material is irrelevant.   I can't think of a reason why I'd ever play a steel shaft in any club longer than an iron.  Doing so is a step backwards..... It's a step backwards for AMs too.... [/quote] Graphite shafts are much better, but it's really hard to beat the $18 price for a steel shaft versus $200-$1700 for a graphite shaft. The Proforce shafts are kind of interesting, but still over $80. If the OP liked the feel of steel shafts with an old style club head, the new style club heads should work with steel shafts too. Plus it's hard to beat the jewelry chrome finish on the steel shafts. Tougher too.

:ping:  :tmade:  :callaway:   :gamegolf:  :titleist:

TM White Smoke Big Fontana; Pro-V1
TM Rac 60 TT WS, MD2 56
Ping i20 irons U-4, CFS300
Callaway XR16 9 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S
Callaway XR16 3W 15 degree Fujikura Speeder 565 S, X2Hot Pro 20 degrees S

"I'm hitting the woods just great, but I'm having a terrible time getting out of them." ~Harry Toscano

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I used a steel shaft in my 7 wood for a long time.  I experimented w/ different shafts and found one that worked for me that was graphite, so I could pick up a couple of yards.  I moved from the steel to fubuki's last year.  I thought the same thing for a long while, should I just put steel in everything.  But, eventually finding some nice graphite shafts worked well.  I still like slightly heavier graphite, but still able to grab a little more distance.


Note: This thread is 4236 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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