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Posted
Greetings all. Even though I got my 3 posts, I'm still a newbie and I need club advice.

I have been using the TM R580 for a couple of years with varying degrees of success (mostly negative). At one point I was crushing it with little movement. Then, things started slowly (a fade here and there) and things snowballed on me. Now I'm back to hitting the dreaded banana ball. Once it got back into my head, I was a gonner. I have been able to dial it back in, but I still have too much of a fade/slice. No banana balls, but too much right movement.

So, I have decided to take the plunge on a new driver. I was 100% dead set on the R7 Draw until I saw that TM has now put out the Burner Draw. I have heard a lot of good things about the Burner, so I figure the Draw version would be good too. But, since it's so new, I can't find a review on it anywhere. I assume that it has the same benefits of the Burner over the R7 but it's just a draw version.

Has anyone hit the Burner Draw yet? I'd really like to hear from someone who has hit them both so I can get some sort of comparison together. Thanks for any help!

  • 9 months later...
Posted
Never buy a car in its first model year.
Never buy a dot zero (1.0, 2.0, etc...) version of software.
Never be on the bleeding edge of technology.

The r7 has been around for a while and has developed a good reputation. The Burner draw may or may not develop that good reputation, but only time will tell. Unless you want to be the guinea pig for the Burner draw, stay with the proven item.

Instight XTD A30S Driver 10.5° ($69 new ebay)
Instight XTD A3OS Fairway Wood 15° ($45 new ebay)
Fybrid 19.5° ($35 new ebay)
Ci7 4-GW ($175 new Rock Bottom Golf via ebay)
53° & 58° 8620 DD wedges ($75 each new PGA Superstore) C2-DF ($35 new Rock Bottom Golf) Riley TT stand bag ($7 n...


Posted
Never buy a car in its first model year.

Especially when they are on

sale .

"You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred." Woody Allen
My regular pasture.


Posted
well i have the burner and it is by far the best driver i have ever hit. i wold go with the neutral version if i were you because the neautrial version also promotes a draw (facde is closed 2 degrees). i tried the burner draw and with my normally neautral ball flight i was hitting a huge hook.

Burner 10.5* driver
Burner 3 wood GD Pershing Shaft
Burner 5 wood GD Pershing Shaft
Tour Burner irons
Rac black 52* Rac satin 60* Red x 3 pro v1


Posted
DO NOT BUY A DRAW DRIVER!
I had an R7 draw, and for two weeks, it fixed my HUGE banana slice. After that two weeks, it's like it stopped working. Still hitting HUGE slices, yet used my dad's non-draw club and hit a slight fade.

Just buy a normal driver and get a lesson.
What I Play:

Driver: Sasquatch SUMO² 9.5º Stiff
Hybrid: HiBore 16º (3W replacement)
Irons: Staff Ci6 3-PW StiffWedges: Vokey Spin Milled 54.10 60.04Putter: Newport Studio Style 35"Ball: Pro V1xAge: 15

Posted
DO NOT BUY A DRAW DRIVER!

I've been thinking abou tthat for a while, which is why i was wondering if getting a club that has weights in it to alter ball path would be a good idea.

Set it to draw to fix my slice and then back to neutral once i feel comfortable

In my Extreme Sport Stand Bag
Driver: 4DX D-Spec Driver 10.5* Stiff UST SR3
3W: F-60 15* Regular Fujikura E150 Fit-On
Hybrids: 4DX Ironwoods 20* 23* Regular UST SR3
Irons: 4DX CB 5-PW Stiff True Temper ST-90Wedges: Vokey 50* 56*Putter: SabertoothBall: DT Roll


Posted
I've been thinking abou tthat for a while, which is why i was wondering if getting a club that has weights in it to alter ball path would be a good idea.

THAT is a good idea. Just don't get a totally draw-biased club.

And by the way, the draw driver will not FIX your slice, per-say, it will just cover it up. You'll still slice your non-draw 3W if you did before you got the driver.
What I Play:

Driver: Sasquatch SUMO² 9.5º Stiff
Hybrid: HiBore 16º (3W replacement)
Irons: Staff Ci6 3-PW StiffWedges: Vokey Spin Milled 54.10 60.04Putter: Newport Studio Style 35"Ball: Pro V1xAge: 15

Posted
THAT is a good idea. Just don't get a totally draw-biased club.

Oh i realize, but the weights are just to ease myself into it and make it easier to fix it.

In my Extreme Sport Stand Bag
Driver: 4DX D-Spec Driver 10.5* Stiff UST SR3
3W: F-60 15* Regular Fujikura E150 Fit-On
Hybrids: 4DX Ironwoods 20* 23* Regular UST SR3
Irons: 4DX CB 5-PW Stiff True Temper ST-90Wedges: Vokey 50* 56*Putter: SabertoothBall: DT Roll


Posted
DO NOT BUY A DRAW DRIVER!

BULLOCKS! lol

"You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred." Woody Allen
My regular pasture.


Posted
over the two, go with the R7
since the burner has a 46" shaft, it'll be a little harder to hit dead center consistently or at least control
In The Bag...

Nike Nike SQ SUMO 5000 9.5*(UST ProForce V2 Stiff)
Titleist 975F 13.5* (Dynamic Gold S300)
Titleist DCI 990 2-PW (Dynamic Gold S300)Nike Forged Unchromed 53*Nike Forged Chrome 60*Ping G2i Craz-e

Posted
Had an r7 draw and it made me slice the ball. Bought a burner draw and actually hit a draw. Its a great club.

What's In My Bag

Driver R9 Supertri 9.5
3 WoodR9
3 Hybrid: Baffler DWSIrons X-20 Tour 4-PWGap Wedge RAC TP SmokeSand Wedge Vokey 56.14Lob Wedge Vokey SM 60.7Putter:SeeMore FGP Black


Note: This thread is 6352 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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