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Posted

I trim my own clubs if needed be.  I change my own grips, too.   It's fairly simple (google the videos) and the tools to cut shaft, change grips are cheap.  

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(Play it again, Sam)

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Posted
53 minutes ago, onthehunt526 said:
On 11/5/2015, 11:15:37, SavvySwede said:

Do you know how much it cost to pay a clubmaker to pull the shaft and trim it for you? I figure it would be very cheap because it would only take 15-20 minutes at most.

Maybe $10-$15, but if he has to reinstall the shaft maybe a little more (24 hours for the epoxy to cure)... tip-trimming is your most cost effective way to stiffen the shaft.

Well obviously he would have to reinstall the shaft. I don't see why curing time would effect the price, he'd just half to pick it up the next day.

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Posted
1 hour ago, SavvySwede said:

Well obviously he would have to reinstall the shaft. I don't see why curing time would effect the price, he'd just half to pick it up the next day.

Some shops charge to re-install the shaft... Though some places call it different things than others... Dick's Sporting Goods for instance will charge you for shortening the shaft ($3.99) plus saving the shaft ($9.99)... Other shops will just charge you a pull and re-install fee... But it's still cheaper than any other process to stiffen the shaft.

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Posted (edited)

He's in India guys. Divide all your prices by 3 for labor. I suspect this may be offset at times by having to multiply prices or hardware by the same amount (depending on duties etc) but for a tip trim, just get it done right by someone with all the equipment to measure it's current flex, cut it, check it, and glue it all back together.

Edited by toomanymatts

Posted

@toomanymatts, Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.  Will check on the issue of having a pro shop pull and tip trim it.  Didn't realize it was actually the easiest way.  Always thought filler or butt trim was easier but have learnt from this site.

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted
1 hour ago, pganapathy said:

@toomanymatts, Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.  Will check on the issue of having a pro shop pull and tip trim it.  Didn't realize it was actually the easiest way.  Always thought filler or butt trim was easier but have learnt from this site.

Well, if you're trying to stiffen it, start at the tip - that should bring down ball flight - still, how much? Depends. Is the tip softer or stiffer in the profile. Tip carefully - doesn't take much.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  Actually have no idea about the shaft profile.  It is just an old 3 wood that someone gave us and hasn't been played much by anyone at home.  I need a club in between my driver and 3/4 iron and since I couldn't find a 4 wood, thought would tip trim the 3 wood and experiment with it.

Curiousity makes me ask what is the easiest way to make a shaft more flexible.  I have a set of woods that I want my parents to use and think my dad would need an A flex and my mom would definitely need a Ladies flex.  The shaft right now is an R flex.  Know this is going off topic but figured it would be of some help.

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, pganapathy said:

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  Actually have no idea about the shaft profile.  It is just an old 3 wood that someone gave us and hasn't been played much by anyone at home.  I need a club in between my driver and 3/4 iron and since I couldn't find a 4 wood, thought would tip trim the 3 wood and experiment with it.

Curiousity makes me ask what is the easiest way to make a shaft more flexible.  I have a set of woods that I want my parents to use and think my dad would need an A flex and my mom would definitely need a Ladies flex.  The shaft right now is an R flex.  Know this is going off topic but figured it would be of some help.

Tip less -- but that generally only makes it more flexible at the bottom.

Adding lead tape to the bottom of the club to make it heavier makes it slightly flexy

Edited by Mr. Desmond

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted

I am a bit confused now.  You say that you want a 4 wood, and to acheive that you are going to tip-trim a 3 wood to make it stiffer.

I am not sure that makes sense. 

Now I am not clubmaker - so please, pull me apart if I am wrong here guys, it's how I learn...but to my understanding there are a couple of fundamental differences between a 3 and a 4W.  The shaft length is one of them (but it's flex profile is not, so if if you just want a 4W length shaft, you may as well trim it from the butt next time it needs a regrip), but more important is the loft angle of the club face.  Tip trimming it has no bearing on this. 

Unless you can bend the head about 2* weaker (some you can, some you can't) you won't acheive much here, and if you want the  higher trajectory of a 4W, tip trimming it so it plays stiffer may be counter productive, as I understand a softer flex promotes a higher ball flight, no?


Posted

@toomanymatts, you are right in that a softer flex will promote higher ball flight but the basic issue is the weaker flex is promoting too much dispersion due to my clubhead speed with the woods (use a stiff driver and regular irons) and unless I can deloft the wood (doubt that honestly), I would rather have a larger gap between the 3 wood and long iron than a lesser gap but more dispersion.  For me the key is accuracy with any club, plus the fact is I can hit a 3 wood shorter if need be.  Yes, the higher ball flight of a 4 wood will not be there with the stiff shaft, but I might need to use a 5 wood and stiffen the shaft if the experiment with the 3 wood works out well.  Will try the experiment of butt trimming it and see if it helps any.

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for the advice on how lead tape can help make the club more flexible.  Guess that is an option for the clubs for my dad, though it probably will not help so much with my mom considering she needs lighter clubs in general, but it is an experiment worth attempting.

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, pganapathy said:

 

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for the advice on how lead tape can help make the club more flexible.  Guess that is an option for the clubs for my dad, though it probably will not help so much with my mom considering she needs lighter clubs in general, but it is an experiment worth attempting.

I need to mention it will only make the shaft slightly more flexy -- to make a big difference,it would take too much lead tape. Tipping less is the better alternative and makes a difference.

Remember, if you have the wrong flex, it's still the wrong flex. Tipping less will only help a little - the rest of the shaft is still the wrong flex. If you are in a "tweener" flex, tipping less helps. Getting good pulls on eBay if you can get shipping is still the better way. I saw pulls of Kuro Kage Black 50 at $30...

Edited by Mr. Desmond

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  I know there is a bit of opposite info I am asking for here.  Tip trimming the shaft is for a club for me (turning regular to stiff).  Making the shaft more flexible is for my parents (turning regular to A or Ladies flex).  So tipping at all may not be great advice for making shafts less flexible, unless the shaft is tip stiff and then trimming it makes it more flexible.  I know that getting a different shaft is always the best solution, but in India clubs and even things like shafts are way more expensive than in the States.  Will experiment with the lead tape, but no idea where I can find that in India.  Also, does the lead tape stay stuck on for a long time.

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, pganapathy said:

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  I know there is a bit of opposite info I am asking for here.  Tip trimming the shaft is for a club for me (turning regular to stiff).  Making the shaft more flexible is for my parents (turning regular to A or Ladies flex).  So tipping at all may not be great advice for making shafts less flexible, unless the shaft is tip stiff and then trimming it makes it more flexible.  I know that getting a different shaft is always the best solution, but in India clubs and even things like shafts are way more expensive than in the States.  Will experiment with the lead tape, but no idea where I can find that in India.  Also, does the lead tape stay stuck on for a long time.

Let me give you the general rule so there is no misunderstanding.

1. Best to purchase the correct flex

2. Tipping the correct flex less will bring up ball flight as the tip is generally softer but it will not turn a stiff into a regular

3. Tipping the stronger flex less may help bring up ball flight a little because you've tipped less - it is softer at the tip generally - but it won't change flex

4. Tipping a weak flex more will tend to lower ball flight because the tip is generally now stiffer -- flex is still the same.

5. If you butt cut a butt-stiff shaft more where it has a less stiff midsection, you may make the butt section less stiff, but the flex is still the flex.

It's best to spend the money on the right shaft; experimenting may not work -- that's why they call it "experimenting."

Edited by Mr. Desmond

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  I assume by tipping you mean tip trimming.

What's in the bag

  • Taylor Made r5 dual Draw 9.5* (stiff)
  • Cobra Baffler 4H (stiff)
  • Taylor Made RAC OS 6-9,P,S (regular)
  • Golden Bear LD5.0 60* (regular)
  • Aidia Z-009 Putter
  • Inesis Tour 900 golf ball
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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, pganapathy said:

@Mr. Desmond, thanks for that advice.  I assume by tipping you mean tip trimming.

Yes, tip trimming is generally shortened to "tipping."

Cutting from the butt is "cut the butt ... (so many inches or cm)" or "cut the butt so the final length of finished club is ... (so many inches) ..." after tip trimming of ...

Edited by Mr. Desmond

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Note: This thread is 3678 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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