Help!! Adjusted Driver Loft and my shot-shape reversed!

[Hacker James]

On 4/9/2017 at 1:40 PM, David in FL said:

It does.  Thanks.

Realizing this is a bit of "old" news, but in as much as I have just ordered an adjustable driver, I have been doing considerable research including an in-depth article from Tom Wishon which explains in detail what is happening with today's adjustable driver. Tom had produced his own several years back. I think the confusion lies in the fact that using the adjustments on today's drivers, it does change face angle in a manner that seems the opposite in that closed face equates to more loft. From what I can gather, this occurs only because of the "optics" of a soled club and that after making the adjustment, the golfer will attempt to square up the face at address resulting in more "apparent" loft. The static loft can not be adjusted by anything having to do with the hosel.  For me, the bottom line is that whatever adjustments are made, all bets are off once the club is picked up. Then there is the angle of ASP as with TM R-1 which could serve to change the loft at address by virtue of a raising/lowering the back of the sole plate with a soled club. Wishon further maintains that the only way optimum fitting results can be achieved is by a competent club fitting taking into account at least 12 aspects of what is desired/needed for a particular golfer's swing. 

  That being said....whatever works.....works! YMMV

(caveat...after I get my driver, I will more than likely be one who is touting the virtues of same, fickle person that I am)

[klineka]

On 4/9/2017 at 2:53 PM, Tee Wade said:

I apologize for veering off topic a little but this post is pretty spot on for me.  My approach shots are very inconsistent.  I tend to pick the ball off the ground as opposed to hitting down steeply enough to leave divots.  My shots sail really high and I know its robbing me of distance because I play with guys that can't outdrive me yet they're hitting a club shorter than me on equal length approach shots.

I think when I started playing my driving was so atrocious (major banana slices) that I spent a lot of time fixing that aspect of my game and neglected to work on irons.  Hitting down on the ball correctly will definitely be my next priority piece. 

Have you looked at ball position for your iron shots in relation to your stance? For tee shots with my driver, the ball is significantly more towards my front foot where mid irons are more central. If I want to hit a higher than normal iron shot (especially with 3 or 4 iron) I move the ball closer to my front foot and that launches the ball higher as well.

 

[Tee Wade]

4 hours ago, klineka said:

Have you looked at ball position for your iron shots in relation to your stance? For tee shots with my driver, the ball is significantly more towards my front foot where mid irons are more central. If I want to hit a higher than normal iron shot (especially with 3 or 4 iron) I move the ball closer to my front foot and that launches the ball higher as well.

 

That's a good suggestion but I had already experimented with ball position before.  My swing was the bigger source of my problems.  Since starting this thread, I took a few lessons with a pro.  Among the many flaws she noticed was that I flung my arms forward to hit the ball instead of moving my hips in the downswing (which is pitiful considering how many of the hip slide/turn threads I've read and learned from on this site).  Because of that fling, my head was moving all over the place and I was having to jump up to avoid hitting the ground which made it hard for me to hit down on the ball properly.  Now that she has me making a more pivot controlled swing, I hit the ball 10-15 yards further with better compression.  I still hit it higher than I think I should but she says not to worry about it that much.

[klineka]

2 hours ago, Tee Wade said:

That's a good suggestion but I had already experimented with ball position before.  My swing was the bigger source of my problems.  Since starting this thread, I took a few lessons with a pro.  Among the many flaws she noticed was that I flung my arms forward to hit the ball instead of moving my hips in the downswing (which is pitiful considering how many of the hip slide/turn threads I've read and learned from on this site).  Because of that fling, my head was moving all over the place and I was having to jump up to avoid hitting the ground which made it hard for me to hit down on the ball properly.  Now that she has me making a more pivot controlled swing, I hit the ball 10-15 yards further with better compression.  I still hit it higher than I think I should but she says not to worry about it that much.

Awesome that is good to hear! I dont think it is a bad thing that your irons go high, that means they should land softer and not have as much rollout, which is obviously important on approach shots to the green where 2-3 yards of rollout can be the difference between a birdie putt or a downhill up and down chip to save par. 

If you are interested in adjusting shot heights, read the article below for tips on how to flight your short irons and wedges

 

 

[Hacker James]

Okay, I just received my adjustable hosel driver (XCG-7). Although I have read up on the particulars (in general) I am wondering just how to go about trying to figure out what settings are best. Is there any recommended procedure in terms as which settings to try first?  How long should one wait to give each setting a chance, before changing? The literature that came with the tool (wrench), points out that 9.5 is more or less the "neutral/standard" setting. The range is from 8.5 to 12 with a couple of settings for "U" (supposedly these encourage a draw).  Lots of questions, I know, but I am a complete novice with modern drivers. FWIW, the standard 9.5 feels the best hitting into a net in terms of contact and sound. I briefly tried the 12U and it felt a bit weird.

[klineka]

On 5/13/2017 at 4:51 PM, Hacker James said:

Okay, I just received my adjustable hosel driver (XCG-7). Although I have read up on the particulars (in general) I am wondering just how to go about trying to figure out what settings are best. Is there any recommended procedure in terms as which settings to try first?  How long should one wait to give each setting a chance, before changing? The literature that came with the tool (wrench), points out that 9.5 is more or less the "neutral/standard" setting. The range is from 8.5 to 12 with a couple of settings for "U" (supposedly these encourage a draw).  Lots of questions, I know, but I am a complete novice with modern drivers. FWIW, the standard 9.5 feels the best hitting into a net in terms of contact and sound. I briefly tried the 12U and it felt a bit weird.

Personally, I would take it to a place like golf galaxy or somewhere that has a launch monitor, most places will let you rent out a hitting bay and use their launch monitor for 30 min or an hour, then you can see the launch angle and spin rates along with carry and total distances for each degree setting to see which one fits your swing the best. That is what I did with my Taylormade R1 driver when I bought it used, I hit it for about 30 min at golf galaxy dialing in the correct loft and face angle for my swing.

[Hacker James]

@klineka. Yeah, I will probably do that. or at least at an actual range.

[Hacker James]

also just for fun and to debunk the claims about loft (covered in a couple of other threads),  I made my own golf protractor by downloading an image of a protractor, glued it to a piece of thin foam board, cut it in two (90 degree right trangles) and then with a tiny screw, attached the two pieces so that the rear piece could be "fanned" out to show the actual loft angle. I got the idea from seeing one made by Maltby online. works good and is only  about 3 inches wide. Can also used to check lie angle, but it is a little bit tricky. Just tinkerin.

 

Edited May 15, 2017 by Hacker James

[Hacker James]

here is the commercial one (but I used an image of a regular one)  ...https://www.golfworks.com/golf-club-loft-and-lie-protractor/p/GWPRO/?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NB_Remark_Dynamic_CRIT

Edited May 15, 2017 by Hacker James

[1badbadger]

On 5/13/2017 at 3:51 PM, Hacker James said:

Okay, I just received my adjustable hosel driver (XCG-7). Although I have read up on the particulars (in general) I am wondering just how to go about trying to figure out what settings are best. Is there any recommended procedure in terms as which settings to try first?  How long should one wait to give each setting a chance, before changing? The literature that came with the tool (wrench), points out that 9.5 is more or less the "neutral/standard" setting. The range is from 8.5 to 12 with a couple of settings for "U" (supposedly these encourage a draw).  Lots of questions, I know, but I am a complete novice with modern drivers. FWIW, the standard 9.5 feels the best hitting into a net in terms of contact and sound. I briefly tried the 12U and it felt a bit weird.

When working with a new adjustable driver, I always recommend starting with it in the stock neural position.  Before you start ripping drives onto the range, warm up with shorter clubs first, and work your way up to the driver, otherwise your initial shots won't provide the best feedback.  If you still have your previous driver and hit it fairly well, take it along too.  If for some reason you just can't seem to hit the new one, you can hit a few shots with your old driver to determine if you're not swinging well or if it's the club.

If the neutral setting isn't producing the ball flight you are looking for, then make the smallest adjustment in the appropriate direction and hit some more shots.  You should be able to get a pretty good idea in about 3-5 shots (not including any obvious mishits). The "U" setting probably stands for "upright", which will have a draw bias.  Never make more than 1 adjustment at a time to a golf club when dialing it in, otherwise you won't know which adjustment influenced the change in ball flight, whether it's good or bad.  The cool thing about the new drivers is you can't screw up too bad...worst case scenario is you set it to neutral and start over! 

[Hacker James]

@1badbadger Thanks, that is more or less what I've been doing. Simple enough with the Tour Edge as there is only one adjustment that makes minor changes in lie angle and face angle at the same time. Most folks know by now that there is no way to really change the loft as the adjustments only change lie and face angles which makes apparent/dynamic loft only "appear" to change. Still, the convenience of being able to swap shafts is noteworthy.

[1badbadger]

4 hours ago, Hacker James said:

@1badbadger Thanks, that is more or less what I've been doing. Simple enough with the Tour Edge as there is only one adjustment that makes minor changes in lie angle and face angle at the same time. Most folks know by now that there is no way to really change the loft as the adjustments only change lie and face angles which makes apparent/dynamic loft only "appear" to change. Still, the convenience of being able to swap shafts is noteworthy.

Good point.  I would bet that most folks don't know that though, so it's good that you mentioned it.  The trajectory can be adjusted on most new drivers, but the loft really cannot be changed.

I'll tell you what...if these type of adapters become common on iron sets and other clubs, I'm going to have to find another line of work!  No one will need an equipment tech or club builder anymore!

[Hacker James]

19 minutes ago, 1badbadger said:

Good point.  I would bet that most folks don't know that though, so it's good that you mentioned it.  The trajectory can be adjusted on most new drivers, but the loft really cannot be changed.

I'll tell you what...if these type of adapters become common on iron sets and other clubs, I'm going to have to find another line of work!  No one will need an equipment tech or club builder anymore!

already here....

http://divnickgolf.com/adjustable/