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Posted
i believe that the driver is the last club you should start hitting, but to wait that long is a bit absurd. sure you should concentrate on improving your iron play and shot game, but as long as you dont go to the range and hit nothing but driver, that shouldnt be a problem. if you can hit a the club consistently, use it.

Driver: r7 460 10.5*
3 Wood: Launcher Steel 15*
Hybrid: HALO 3i 22*
Irons: X-20 Tour 3-PW
Wedge: RAC Chrome 56*/12*Putter: White Steel 2-Ball Blade


Posted
My local pro has just introduced me to the driver ( a Clevland Hibore xl ) after 18 mths of lessons and practice. He maintained until I got below 12 or 13 that a driver would only hinder my progress. How right he was. I started playing in 2005 and having no bad habits to unlearn the por suggested I not buy a driver for 2 seasons. Got my Hibore last week and ( I'm Not one for blowing my own trumpet ) but it's embarassing being beside long time golfers with Nike SQ2's, TM burners and the like and out driving them. Is this just the honeymoon period for a new club that people talk about or was the pro correct about steering clear of a driver until I could master my irons first? The reason I ask is my bro wants to start playing golf and should I give him the same advice?

It sounds to me like your pro assessed what your strengths were, came up with a game-plan for you, charted your growth, and executed his plan. I don't know if his beliefs are universal (regarding the driver) for every student he teaches or if he adopted it just for your case. Nonetheless, based on what your results have been, he appears to have a "method to his madness".

Now, whether or not your game-plan would work for your bro is anyone's guess. I would suggest that you have him meet your instructor and go from there. IMO, most good instructors will have a baseline program. However, after meeting with each student, they modify their curriculum predicated on the unique aptitude, ability, and need of each student. Recently, I went to a new instructor (my old one took a head pro job out of the area). The first time I met with my new instructor, he stated that he prefers to work with children or brand new golfers because they tend to be a "blank page". As a result, he only gives them one swing thought to work on per lesson. However, after talking with me and watching me hit golf balls, he stated that he's going to modify his approach with me because I was capable of handling more than just a single change per lesson. At that point, we worked on alignment and swing path. As a result of my single lesson with him, I'm hitting the ball crisper and my misses have been less punishing. So, I am very pleased with the results so far. Good luck to you and your bro, and keep driving 'em straight and long. DT

:titleist: :scotty_cameron:
915D3 / 712 AP2 / SC Mont 1.5


Posted
You don't hear about 2 woods much these days, but the old "deuce" used to be about 12 or 13 degrees of loft.

Many high-lofted drivers are effectively a 2-wood with high MOI (etc).

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Many high-lofted drivers are effectively a 2-wood with high MOI (etc).

with an inch on the shaft.

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted
If you want to get good at this game, at some point you have to learn how to use a driver and use it well.

I agree, you should use what ever the hole calls for, you wouldn't hit 4 iron on 600+ yard par 5. you gotta learn to hit the big dog some day day.

In the bag:
Driver-Cleveland HiBore XLS Tour 10.5s
Hybrids-Adams Pro Gold
Irons-Srixon I-701Tour PX6.0
Wedges-Srixon WG 50*/56*Putter-Rife BarbadosBalls-Bridgestone B330S


Posted
My local pro has just introduced me to the driver ( a Clevland Hibore xl ) after 18 mths of lessons and practice. He maintained until I got below 12 or 13 that a driver would only hinder my progress. How right he was. I started playing in 2005 and having no bad habits to unlearn the por suggested I not buy a driver for 2 seasons. Got my Hibore last week and ( I'm Not one for blowing my own trumpet ) but it's embarassing being beside long time golfers with Nike SQ2's, TM burners and the like and out driving them. Is this just the honeymoon period for a new club that people talk about or was the pro correct about steering clear of a driver until I could master my irons first? The reason I ask is my bro wants to start playing golf and should I give him the same advice?

i totally agree with that. its common knowledge amongst coaches. there is no point spending money on a fancy driver, when you haven't even mastered (or control) irons yet. Remember, you will only hit a maximum of 15-16 drives per round. It makes sense for sheer percentages only.

I have been playing golf since i was 11. I didn't bother getting a good driver until i was 16/17. I would suggest to him, to purchase a good driver (well-superseded models), just until he finds his feet a little. ps: nice driver. my friend pulled the HiBore Driver and Hybrid. they look great.
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted
Mate i have been playing on and off for about four years between the rugby league season.the only problem (some) double digit handycappers have with the driver is trying to smash it 300 metres everytime. what you pro should have said is by all means use your driver every metre counts but learn to know when not to use it. good luck.
Posted
I was reading an article the other day in Golf Digest that challenged the long held belief that the 3 wood was easier to hit off the tee. The authors logic was this - Todays 460 driver is actually more forgiving than the tradionally smaller 3 wood head and because of it there was less error in the club off the tee. He went on with a trial experiment with various handicaps that seemed to support his claim. And if you think about it it makes sense. That being said I got a buddy that has the driver yips who should never pick one up.

Driver - Taylormade R9
3 Wood - Titlelist 909F2 15.5 degrees

2H - Nickent

4H - Taylormade
Irons - Mizuno MP-63 5-PW
Wedges - Titlelist 52 and 60 and Cleveland CG-15 56
Putter - Scotty Cameron Stainless Steel NewportBall - Pro V or V1


Posted
The driver should be learned last and separate because it has a very different swing setup than the rest of the bag. A 3 wood's setup is much similar to a 3/4 hybrid/long iron than a driver. ie, swing plane, stance width, hand position, swing arc. For a beginner, is like a whole new swing, rather than minor adjustments to an existing swing.

I don't think handicap index should be indication for driver striking capabilities.

Posted
I was reading an article the other day in Golf Digest that challenged the long held belief that the 3 wood was easier to hit off the tee. The authors logic was this - Todays 460 driver is actually more forgiving than the tradionally smaller 3 wood head and because of it there was less error in the club off the tee. He went on with a trial experiment with various handicaps that seemed to support his claim. And if you think about it it makes sense. That being said I got a buddy that has the driver yips who should never pick one up.

I'd like to add a few things.

I, too, read this article. It isn't that the 3-Wood isn't easier to hit off the tee, it's that the results aren't as likely to be as good because of the forgiveness in the drivers that isn't present in the 3-Woods. Now, if your friend has no faith in his ability to hit driver, he shouldn't hit it. Never hit a club you aren't comfortable with.

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 6539 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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