dlance

Good choice. I have played both courses and love pebble much more. Spyglass is more challenging, but to me only in that with the layout of the course they have eliminated my driver. When i went there i didnt' know this and tried to hit drivers and 3 woods off the tee and almost every time i ended up through the fairway and in the woods. If i get the chance to play there again i think that my driver may only see the course 2 or 3 times. That to me isn't fun if you are out there to play an enjoyable round. Especially since you said you hit the ball long. Good luck out there and don't you dare lay up on 18!!

Being that you are a +1.6 handicap i find it hard to believe that you would buy a club that doesn't fit your game to start with. Don't you get on a launch monitor prior to purchasing a new club?

I have to post and back up this other guy with the 350 yard drive...I am a 5 handicap and hit the ball far. I don't average 350 by any means, but it is far from a stretch that i can hit that far. Now some people may say well yea, your handicap is a third of this other guy, but i have to say that i was hitting that far when i was a 20. The main improvement in my game has been accuracy and chipping. I have always had the distance, and i don't think that it is fair to say that just because he doesn't score well means that he can't bomb one out there every now and then... (i do want to point out that i am not saying that he does hit that far as i have never seen his swing either, just saying that the possibility is there regardless of his handicap)

I was not expecting to be able to control the e6 around the green either...but after playing on the course with it i can't argue with the results. Also, i did mention that i was going to try the 330's to see if i could keep that feel off the irons and driver, but increase green-side spin. I played many a rounds with the penta's and could not stop them (even with flop shots). I might as well have been chipping with range balls.

I have my own opinions on this, but want to know if others have something they are dead set on as being the best training tool on the market. My pick? Medicus 5i (dual hinge model) In my opinion the Medicus 5i is the best tool out there. It helps teach new players what the swing should be like and if you read the book that comes with it will help to tell you what to improve on without the need of an expensive instructor. I also like that you can hit actual balls with it once you get a little better. This helps you get the swing down while looking at the ball as well as build swing strength since it is a bit heavier than your normal club would be. I also like it because it is adjustable in it's sensitivity so that people who have engrained this swing can still gain from using it. I personally have it as loose as it can get without falling apart (i can swing it with the factory setting all day without breaking the hinge point). I do this because while my swing may be grooved to this, i do tend to have too fast a take away and by loosening it way up, i can train myself to slow down because if i jerk back on it at the start of my swing it breaks.

I would say if you could bring your club head back a little straighter it may help reduce the loop you have at the top, and then try and get a little more weight shift forward during your downswing (with a lot of your weight staying on the back foot it can cause the pushes and fades)

I played baseball for 14 years before switching to golf (im 28) and had the same problems in the beginning. For your grip i would recommend an overlap grip. It is between the interlock and baseball grip. Basically grip your left hand like you would your bat, but instead of wrapping your thumb around point it down towards the club head. Now take your right hand and put it on top of your left thumb with your right pinky on top of your left pointer finger and have your thumb point down to the club head. It will feel a little awkward, but should be much easier to adjust to than the interlock method. Now you didn't ask, but i just want to point out the two main differences in the baseball swing and golf swing when it comes to how your arms should be at the top of the swing. In baseball you were probably taught to bend your left arm and have the right arm up and out like a chicken wing. In golf it is the exact opposite. You want your left arm as straight as possible and the right arm tucked down into your body. Here is clip of my swing that kinda shows it at about the 4 sec mark (left arm straight, right arm tucked). As far as weight shift, if you have a problem rocking too much, i would say start with more weight on your back foot so you don't rock as much and try and transition to your front foot during your down swing so that you could lift your back foot up after you hit and still be balanced. Good luck!

If your normal glasses have the option you can sometimes get the clip over shad lenses that just turn them into sunglasses. I also had a pair of Oakley's that were not prescription that i sent back to Oakley to have fitted with new lenses. It changed the outer tint a little from Blue to a bit of a purple, but otherwise worked out great.

Dude, that is a bad ass cart right there...!!! I have an ipad and have taken it out on the course with me twice and let me tell you it sucks!!! Way to large to have to handle (even if you are riding in a cart). But if you plan to walk and have a set up like this guy...i say go for it. Otherwise i just stick with my skycaddie. so in answer to your question: Tacky? No. Practical? No.

I have been putting a lot of time in over the last year trying to pick a ball that felt good and think i may be settling on the Bridgestone ones. I normally play Titleist Pro V1, but have played many rounds with the Taylormade Penta's (they are good off the tee, but don't spin for crap around the greens. I had to stop playing them because i couldn't keep the ball near the pin if it was in the front of the green..and i play with a 62* vokey..) So next i tried the Callaway Hex Black. Felt good off the tee, felt good on my wedges, but anything else and it was like hitting a rock (even with the putter). Needless to say, if it feels bad on 11 of your 14 clubs you should probably switch balls. Then I tried the Bridgestone brand (now the model i tried, and totally expected to hate was the E6 - they had been given to me). My god was i wrong. I loved the ball. Hit it a mile off the tee (i think my first hit was 330 into the wind - it was a little downhill...It also jumped off the face of my irons, even out of the rough and would have a really high trajectory. And control with my chip shots around the green was good. It even added the Pop i was missing with my putter as of late. THe only downside to the ball was that my full swing approach shots didn't spin back like they do with the Pro V1's. The would release about 5 yards. I plan to try the 330-S to see if they spin a little more, but if they don't i see myself playing the e6 Ball for a while...

Ive mostly played titleist for the last few years, but wanted to try something new this last weekend i played. Originally i intended to switch to the Callaway Hex Black, but after 1.5 rounds decided i didn't like it (felt good on driver and wedges, but anything in between felt like a rock and not much better on the putter either). I had been given a sleeve of the Bridgestone E6 the day before so i gave them a shot...Felt great off the putter, hit it a mile off the tee, and the ball jumped off my irons (especially out of the rough). By the end of the day i had the rest of my group (all sub 10 handicaps) wanting to try the ball... The only downside to the ball was that i didn't generate all the much spin with my full swing approach shots. They didn't roll off the green or anything, but they didn't back up either. It was more like a hit and kick maybe 5 yards before stopping. I may try the 330's and see if they can increase the spin without taking away from everything else that felt good about this ball.

String is where you get a length of string at the beginning of the round and you can move you ball by any length you have on the string, but have to cut the length you use off so each time it is shorter. Say you are putting and miss by a foot. You can cut a foot off your length and now your ball is in the cup. Once you are out of string you can't move it anymore.

I've been Playing Golf for: 13 years My current handicap index or average score is: 5.0 My typical ball flight is: High Cut (power fade if you will) The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Banana Slice Videos:

I was playing a round over at Eagle Ridge golf course in Gilroy, CA and on the 8th green we walked up and saw this guy crawling around on the green, so we put a ball in front of him and he crawled up on it and just stopped. Then we moved the ball and put one of our putters down and he crawled up on that too. So we took some photos on the ball and on our clubs before gently moving him off to the side of the course so he wouldn't get hit by the people behind us. It was pretty cool.

The shaft is definitely an important factor, but I would not necessarily say most important. Everything is dependent on the golfer. The things that I see in combination that make the difference is (in no particular order) Shaft brand Shaft flex Shaft kick point Club brand Face angle Attack angle Ball position in stance (will affect attack angle) Ball type Swing speed I have 3 clubs, all set up different that all hit the same height because the combined effects were the same (distances however were different)– Cobra, 400CC, 7*, extra stiff, hick kick Mizuno, 460CC, 8*, Pro-launch blue 65, stiff, low kick Taylor made, RBZ, 460CC 9* head (but opened up 2* and lowered 1.5* with adjustments), extra stiff HD shaft, (don’t know kick point) Basically what I am saying is that changing any one of the things listed above will dramatically affect the height of the ball. The goal is to set it up so that you are getting the height that best suits your swing to maximize distance.

Flop shot is my 2nd favorite shot. I can do it with anything 53* and higher...i currently carry a 53* and a 62* that makes it really easy. I can also hit a stinger driver like tiger (his goes a bit longer, but i can get around 275 with it) Having faith in my full swing driver i would say is special... say if there is a trap that cuts into the fairway at about 260-275 well most people would probably want to lay up short of it. If i am swiging well, i can go all out on my driver and fly them. (favorite shot - because who doesn't like hitting it long) Punch shots really depend on the situation. If you are going laterally and have a little room for height i use a 5-7 so i can control distance and keep it in the fairway..if you are trying to advance it and/or keep it low, i use a 2i or 3 wood. I also use a lot of punch shots for my regular approach shots to control spin and distance. My theory is choose the club i would hit full swing then drop 3 and punch (drop only 2 if into the wind) I can hit a cut or slice or hook, but not a draw...still working on that one.

I didn't read all 4 pages of this so the topic may have changed from the original, but i wanted to put in my thoughts anyways about what is a pretty good score: I have played these scrambles in 2 man and 4 man teams (never with anything special - take the best score, @ 80% of your handicaps - no mulligans, string things, or ladies tees) I typically play these with my father we both jump between 3-6 handicaps through the year...Which for most scrambles is too low to compete. Our strategy for these is to pick harder qualifier courses so that being the better players makes up for the difference in strokes that most the other players get. In a two man even this year at San Juan Oaks GC in California, we shot a -12 in 1 round. (however at the finals for this held at Spyglass GC in CA we only managed a -3 and were pretty close to the bottom of the group - it was my first time there...i want another shot at it...) As a 4 man team at Poppy Ridge GC in Livermore, CA we shot a -22 with 3 of the 4 people having below a 10 handicap. These types of scores are what i normally see take the top spot, but i did play a different 4 man team this year at Monarch Bay GC in san Leandro, CA where we got 2nd place with only a -8... so a good score really only depends on who you are playing against that day... (these were all NCGA regulated tournaments)

Typically if something like this happens you can send it back for repair/replacement. I have done this several times with my Scotty Cameron Putter when the shaft was coming loose from the head one time and a pin was loose in the shaft (rattle like you are describing) the 2nd time. It can take a little bit to get back, but it is a heck of a lot cheaper then buying a new club... of course if you are leaning towards another club anyways, you can send it back for repair, buy the new club, then sell the R11 when you get it back to make the new club cheaper.

Played in an NCGA turni on Tuesday @ Poppy Hills GC in Pebble Beach, CA. Shot a 78...with a 5 putt on a par 3...From about 15 ft.!! (i don't want to talk about it...) Good thing i was under par on the par 5's and the weather was great...

You can also just use the impact stickers an he face to see impact point.

7, would have been lower because guys shouldnt be between another guys legs, but added points because i think the visor needs to make a comeback

I know you disagree...you started the thread.

How many of these people hitting into a net at home have an instructor with them?

Wow, i can't believe that so many people are buying into this idea. The only time a net is an advantage is if they are total beginners and can not get consistent contact with the ball. As soon as they can consistently get the same contact or feel YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHERE THE BALL IS GOING...If you don't know where the ball is going how do you know what you are doing is correct? Sure you saw somebody post earlier that it is a key note that they have to understand the swing...well if they understand the swing enough to analyze what is happening without seeing the end result, they they are smart enough to put aside the need distance that you claim is the root or evil in fixing a swing on a regular driving range. If the majority of people were able to analyze their own swing then there would not be simulators and golf instructors charging $100's per hour to help them. I wonder, How far away from the hitting location is the net? 5, 10, 20 yards maybe? Next time you go and play and you hit a bad shot, could you tell in the 1st 20 yards that it was bad? Every time? (this of course only applies to shots that actually got air-born...) QUESTION 1: Has anybody ever hit the ball and thought "ohh that felt great", then look up and see it isn't where you thought it would be? Well get used to it if you buy a net... QUESTION 2: What other sport do you try and learn by practicing and practicing and gaining muscle memory that is hard to break prior to seeing what the results of your practice is?