arturo28mx

I wash them in the sink and running water with liquid dish soap, rubbing with my hand only or a scotch brite pad and it works very well

7 wood is fantastic

I have seen many videos of tour trucks at PGA tournaments. They can build a club in minutes. For epoxy they usually use 3M DP810 and then a heating gadget to get the epoxy cured in minutes so the player can go hit balls immediately. But my question is about the grips. What do they do so the grips can also be used immediately to go hit balls? Normally grips require a few hours to be ready. Can somebody explain? Thanks

I purchased a set of Pro's last year but sold it. They are nice clubs and I love Mizuno, but they are very strong lofted and I am a senior with a slow swing speed. Had difficulty getting the ball up in the air. Strong lofted irons are not for slow swing speed players. Preferred the Hot Metal High Launch model.

First thing to try is to add some weight. I'd say start with ten grams and see how it feels.

I play in Mexico City at 7,000 ft elevation. Air is thinner, so you have two effects: less drag and less lift. Ball flies longer but lower. Same effect on clay birds when shooting sporting clays. Discs fly longer and flatter. Spin is not dictated by elevation. It is dictated by swing speed and loft.

Based on my own experience, I would say even high handicappers should get fitted for shaft weight. In my opinion, the wrong weight is the single most important factor that could ruin a potentially good swing. Everything else can wait. Of course, a full fitting would always be best.

For a putter to fit you it's not just length, lie and loft. In my case it was also weight. My two Scotty Camerons improved dramatically after I added a bit of lead tape to the head.

A chipper has a heavier head, a shorter shaft and a wider sole. I used to have one and it worked very well, better than an 8 iron, for me.

The PRO 950 GH is a wonderful shaft.

I'm just a mid handicapper, but my experience with SGI irons is that they all have a lot of offset. I just can't hit irons with so much offset. I pull all the shots. Surely there's something wrong with my swing. But I can hit players irons (with significantly less offset) much better. I'm currently gaming Mizuno Pro 223 and love them. Much more forgiving than the Titleist AP2s I used for years. And much better distance control.

For years I have played around with shorter shafts in my Titleist drivers. Yes, I feel I have more control in hitting the center of the face. But the swingweight will be much lower, and this affects tempo. Most drivers come in D3 swingweight. Every inch I trim costs me 5-6 swingweight points. TRimming an inch means I will end up with a C7 or C8 swingweight and for me that is still playable because I'm 66 years old and a lighter club is better for me. However, if I went down and inch and a half I would end up with a swingweight of about C4 or C5 and that is just too low. You can't feel the head, the club is too light and your tempo goes down the drain. Titleist drivers have interchangeable weights so I fix the above problem by installing heavier weights you can purchase on line. Lead tape is another option.

I have recently switched to Titleist Velocity and really like it. Did an experiment the other day. Played both matte green and matte orange balls side by side. Both balls are very high visibility, but without a doubt for me the matte orange balls were the most visible a mile away.

My experience. I can clearly hit my 10° driver farther than my 12° driver. No doubt about that. But I sometimes slice the ball and with the 10° the slice is bad. On the other hand, the 12° flies higher, with more back spin and less distance, but straighter. I hit more fairways with it.

My opinion: not too slow, maybe half speed. A good alternative to practicing at half speed is practicing with half swings, where the left arm stops at parallel.

Most times a stiffer shaft is a heavier shaft. Your problem may have to do with a shaft that is too heavy and is throwing your tempo off.

Several instructional videos I've seen recently say to use same brand and model shaft for your wedges as your irons, just a notch softer. In my case, I use same shaft as my irons for those wedges I will definitely be doing full swings.

One word of caution. Based on my own experience, "senior" shafts are too soft and whippy, and produce too much dispersion.

i have more fun when I play with others, but I get a better idea of what I'm doing wrong when I play alone.

Talking about chef knives, german knifes are very resistant to rust and easy to sharpen. Cheap stainless steel knives are very resistant to rust but very brittle and hard to sharpen.

Every time I want to get new clubs I just go for different shafts. Especially different weights. I own a set of Titleist 718 AP2. I have gone from factory white AMTs, to XP95, to Project X LZ 5.0, and now to NIppon 950GH. Every time I change shafts I feel its a totally different club. In my opinion, it is shaft weight that makes the most difference, not shaft flex.

AFter many years of playing I have concluded the driver is the most forgiving club, if you hit it right. My problem was a slice, no matter what I did. Until I saw this video about keeping the club head behind you.. Slice solved. Hope it helps.

After many years of playing golf I finally understood the importance of "keep a steady head". It is definitely possible to shift your weight to your left foot without moving your head. It has helped mi enormously to have more precision at impact. Look at Fred Couples. His head has zero movement throughout the swing with the driver.

In my experience, choose the shaft (steel or graphite) that gives you the most consistency in hitting the center of the clubface. When you accomplish this, distance will happen by itself.