bigoak

Are you talking about splining a shaft? If it is graphite it will definitly help you to consistantly repeat a swing. If your swing is all over the place then it is not worth the investment.

putting. that is almost half of your total

Don't just try to put a hybrid shaft on a fairway wood. Usually a hybrid shaft is a .370" tip and a fairway is.335 or .350" Just shorten a fairway club shaft. A true bastard club would be putting a Taylormade shaft in a Ping Club or something illigitimate like that.

There are limits on the response of COR of golf clubs. They are farther? Then they are illegal. Golf and bowling share the same motive for technological advance. " Make the hackers think they are almost a professional grade. Oil patterns on the lanes turn a 160 average bowler into a 200 average and he thinks he can turn pro. Put this hack on a pro oil pattern and he couldn't hit his butt with either hand. Put the average golfer on a course set up for the professionals and he/she will not break 100. I had the opportunity to play the East Course at Oak Hill following the PGA. I am not good enough with 9 strokes to break 110 on this set up. The greens are lightening and the roughs are brutal and the fairways are very narrow.

ON the narrower fairways I resorted to trying an older Cleveland 400 10.5 driver (-1")and tried to hit it with a slightly decending path and it seemed to work fine. The longer 47" driver I have had to hit ascending. My problem now is the pop for pop there is no difference in driving distance. I don't get it.

get it done so you won't have to worry about it later

sounds backwards to me. how long is your swing. Asinger has a strong grip and traps the ball but his swing in shorter.

I am suprised no one suggested this method. Instead they all talked about what they had. Who cares what you have? This is not the information requested. When trying putter types use the two ball method. aline two balls so they will be struck at the same time with the putter. If you are a gate open=closer then the ball on the toe of the face will move the farthest when struck. If you are a shaft swinger then you are a shaft swinger when putting and the ball on the heel side will move the farthest. try this with different style putters until you find a style that has the least distance between the two balls after being stuck. This actually gives you the whole face to putt with instead of a small portion

What kind did you buy? I bought one and it was a pain to use and took for ever to get one shaft out. I don't want to spend all afternoon pulling 8 shafts.

It depends on how fussy you are about your grips. Removal of grips can be a problem for a newbie. The hooked blade on a handiknife works the best. if you are a slob you leave the old tape on and tape over it. If you are fussy then you remove the old tape. be careful if scraping graphite shafts so as to not harm the shaft. measure your tape strips so they are all the same length. attach double sided tape to your shafts. wet the inside of the grip with grip solvent by putting thumb over openings and tumble back and forth, use the solvent in the grip to activate the tape on the shaft. slide the grip on and align while the solvent is allowing manipulation. pull down on the grip to make sure the grip is on. tap butt on the floor to seat the butt in the grip cap. measure somehow the diameter of the grip to make sure that they are all consistent in diameter. wait a day and try your new grips

man up buy the clubs because you need them. buy wife jewelry to show her that you are not a self centered lil boy and you want to give her jewelry because she needs jewelry too.

sometimes the graphite shafts suffer but the steel are good to go again. pro's change heads but often keep the same shafts with a new grip. I've watched new grips being installed in a professional's clubs. it reminds you of surgery. Compared to the hacks that put new tape over the top of the old tape and charge 8-12$ a grip when they should be charging half that because they are not doing any grip work. The real professional installers measure each grip and make sure that they fit the player properly

Charley is my hero. I wish I swung it that good.

I've glued up a lot of sets and in the past have used 36 for steel and 37 for graphite. This year I have been going to 35.5 for the sand and 35 for the lobber and I like em better. I fell like I get more spin on the ball and I am not sure why. For giggles and grins I built two sets in steel all .5 in under standard and I sold both sets immediately to the first guys to try em.

Adding tape and some larger grips increase the weight at the butt half of the club. This changes the center of gravity and may make the head end feel lighter. If you are a head swinger, this could be a problem. If you are a handle swinger then it shouldn't be much of a problem

Balata balls could be cut by a wooden driver. A metal fairway club could do more damage. Persimmon is a hard wood. The modern golf ball and modern equipment is a fantastic improvement. With the Balata ball, pros were digging out a new ball at least every 4 holes. Compared to the hand work to make a wood, the modern drivers should be a fraction of the selling prices. I remember gluing a wooden head and whipping the hosel, adjusting the lead weights under the sole plate, resealing the sole and eventually refinishing the head. Today just buy a new head, glue it up, adjust to the weight you want and you're off to the range.

Two guys in our thursday league carry ice fishing rigs and cast into the ponds with soft lures without hooks and catch fish while waiting for the tee to open.

Forged can be bent more than cast typically. One degree isn't much. I have bent cast heads and had them snap. not fun

Invest the money and someday you can use it to upgrade your equipment

ok. I have one of those heavy putters. If I put that in the bag for our Can-Am tournament. Big tournament with rounds over 5 hours. Could I use that to loosten up on the course? What about one those Momentus putters?

This is too complicated. I play the driver and woods off the left nut and the irons off the right nut. Every guy knows where his nuts are.

If you are not chicken winging to make a duck hook, you may consider having your lie angle checked. You might be grounding the heal of the club first causing the face to close and move the ball left. Trying choking up an inch or two and see if the lefts continue with the shortened club.

Don't be monochromatic. Think about the bounce you want with each loft. If you have sand in your traps, you are going to want a lot of bounce on the sand iron. If traps are short on sand and are crusty, you want a sand iron with less bounce. Some guys will say to use your pitching iron. I like those guys, especially when the crusty trap is close to the pin.

Its fun to give the 3-4 footers for the first 14 holes and then get lock jaw.

Pros and top amateurs have worn out iron heads. They kept the shafts and had them installed in the new iron heads. Unless you had Aluminum shafts, it is unlikely they punked out.