1puttit

I've been using a Super Stroke Slim for about six weeks. Love it!! What I like best is it has no taper. I putt "left hand low" and having a straight grip really feels great.

Golfsmith used to produce a lot of quality components and was a great place for club builders. In the last several years they've scaled their component business way back and they only offer about 25% of what they once did. If you're looking to get some nice component irons I would look at Hireko Golf. They have lots of great stuff at very competitive prices. Also look at Value golf, which offers a lot of the same things as Hireko plus some other models. Both places offer clubs in components or they will build them for you. Checking Value Golf's site you can get a set of Acer XF pro's (similar to Callaway Razr X Tour ) built for about $150. Take a look at FST shafts (designed by the same guy that did the original Rifle shafts and KBS shafts)

I really recommend US Kids clubs. Great clubs for every size golfer. A 5 club set with bag will run you about $100 - $150. They also sell individual clubs at about $30 each. If you check their website they have an "outlet" where they sell left over clubs from last years model. They make a 9 iron with a training grip that makes a good starter club if you just want to get one club to whack some balls around. I'd also recommend "almost golf" balls. They are plastic balls that fee and fly like real balls but only go 1/3 to 1/2 the distance. The are Neighborhood Safe and wont damage houses, cars, etc... Great to hit out in the yard without having to worry about damaging anything.

I've been working on getting my arms down faster the last few days. What a difference! When I do it right I'm hitting the ball 20+ yards farther. The feeling I'm working with right now is feeling like I'm pulling the butt of the club into the back of the ball with my left arm and trying to pull my left elbow to my left side. Still a lot of work to do but feel like I'm on the right track.

I'll check that book out. If athletes have been doing the "4 hour body" diet for 40 years then it must work.

I think amber tint is the way to go. I had issues with the progressive bifocals when standing over putts so I just went with the distance prescription in my golf glasses. I also went with non-polarized because I had read that polarized makes it difficult to see the grain.

Definitely recommend the FST 125s. The regular 125 is a mid-kick design while the 125 is stepless and High-kick. Great shafts and very "smooth" feeling.

The folks at Vision54 recommend a similar slow motion drill they call the "Tai Chi Golf Swing". I find trying to make the swing last about 30 seconds is very helpful and helps ingrain changes and feelings.

For those of you doing low carb diets I'd recommend checking out the 4 Hour Body by Tim Ferris. http://www.amazon.com/The-4-Hour-Body-Incredible-Superhuman/dp/030746363X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1339091273&sr;=1-1 He prescribes a "slow carb" diet that is very easy to follow. Basically eliminate all white carbs (anything that is white and has carbs except cauliflower), lots of protein from beans & meat, and green veggies. One of the interesting things about this diet is there is a built in "cheat day" where you are allowed to eat anything you want for one day a week (must be 6 days of slow carb diet before each binge day). The theory is the binge day with the huge jump in calories keeps your body from going into starvation mode. Plus having a planned cheat day makes it easier to stay on the diet during the week. Lots of interesting info.

Thanks Erik. Totally forgot about that old post. Thanks for combining for me.

Club head weights vary quite a bit by manufacturer. I do not know of any company that makes two different sets of heads depending on whether they are going to shaft them with graphite or steel shafts. BUT, the clubs can be weighted differently using tip weights to change the swing weight. Typically graphite irons will have lower swing weights than steel shafted irons but this depends a lot on the weight of the shafts being used. There are 115g steel shafts, 90g steel shafts, 85g and 95g graphite shafts, etc... If you're looking to upgrade your irons I'd go out and hit all the major OEM's. You can save a ton of cash by picking up last year's model. Sell your current irons on ebay.

I've been Playing Golf for: 15 years, last 3 years using Stack & Tilt framework. In the last 2 years have gone from high 90's shooter to low-mid 80's shooter. My current handicap index or average score is: about 10 My typical ball flight is: push draw, tend to be a high ball hitter The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Tend to pull a bit to the left, starting the ball at or a bit left of target and then overdrawing. I think part of this is caused from "hitting from the top" and also seem to over-rotate my hands closing the face to the left. Looking at these videos I'm sure there are numerous flaws. Really looking for advice on the top 2 flaws you see and which one you would attack first. I've been working on my setup and getting my arms a little farther from my body at setup. I've been hitting it on the heel a lot lately and this seems to have fixed the issue. FYI I've lost about 80 lbs in the last year so I'm struggling with some basic setup/balance issues as my body has changed so much. Thanks in advance for your advice. Videos: Shot on 6/6/12. Down the line view hitting a Tour Striker Pro 7 iron. Shot on 6/6/12. Face on view hitting a Tour Striker Pro 7 iron.

Steel shafts are fairly easy to pull. You just need a butane (or propane) torch. Heat for a minute or so, moving the flame back and forth so you don't discolor the hosel, and when the bond breaks the head should slide off. For graphite shafts I would definitely recommend a shaft extractor. Otherwise you'll almost certainly ruin the shaft. Depending on how many shafts you plan on pulling you can probably get by with a non-professional shaft extractor. Something like this should work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Golf-Club-Shaft-Extractor-Puller-More-Powerful-Model-/270983145220?pt=Golf_Clubmaking_Products_US&hash;=item3f17daa704

The fire sale was last summer. You could get 6 dozen Gamer v2 for $60 shipped on ebay! My gut says that now that Dick's has topfilte that they will either discontinue the gamer or change it. Dick's also owns Maxfli and I hear they actually have some decent balls so maybe their is hope for the gamer as well

I just might do that. OTOH, if you'd like to send me one, I'd be happy to post an unbiased review after I try it out.

Cutting the 1/2 inch off is no big deal. If you regrip your own clubs it's a simple process of cutting off the grip and using a pipe cutter (plumber section of Home Depot) to cut the shaft. Then re-grip. Change in flex will be minimal as you are cutting the butt end. You didn't mention what type of heads but most cast head can be bent 2* with no issue. The only issue you might have is if these clubs were originally built to standard length and then lengthened later. In this case they will have shaft extensions. These are easily removed using heat to break the epoxy bond.

Given that your 54* has 10* of bounce I might suggest a 58* with about 6* of bounce. That would give you some versatility in your bag having a low bounce option when you need it. Really a good option when having to hit off of hard packed sand. Also a good option to chip with around the green when you shor side yourself. I agree with the others that it is a club to be used sparingly - not every shot requires you to flop it on.

Can you hit these clubs before purchase? If so, I'd just choke down on them an inch or so and see how you hit them. If you can hit them off a lie board (while choking down 1") you can see if you'll need to have the lie adjusted or not. MVMAC is correct that shortening them an inch will make them play 2* flatter. This could be a good thing depending on what specs you need which is why I suggest hitting them off a lie board before making any alterations. If they were bent 2* upright and you play standard lie you will probably need to get them bent back. MVMAC is also correct that each 1/2 inch you shorten the clubs will lighten the swing weight 3 points so shortening an inch will make it 6 points lighter. I doubt this will be an issue because my experience is that people that end up having longer shafts installed are usually playing with clubs that are way over the standard swing weight. The reason for this is because club heads come in standard weights and are designed to be built to standard lengths. So a guy that is taking a 38" 5 iron and extending it an inch is ADDING 6 points of swing weight from the "standard" weight that club was meant to be built at. The only way to adjust this is to remove weight from the head which is almost impossible with irons so it is almost never done. SO, when you cut them down an inch the swing weight will be "standard" (assuming you going back to standard length)

I'm not sure why there is so much prejudice against S&T; but it definitely exists. It is probably because S&T; challenges a lot of what is traditionally taught so it puts mainstream instructors on the defensive. Most people have this black/white style of thinking - if S&T; teaches that you don't need to shift your weight back then teachers who do favor a big weight shift automatically feel that S&T; is saying they're teaching the swing wrong. And nobody like to be wrong. Maybe its because they say the grip and stance aren't fundamentals? Maybe because they've said (in the Charlie Rose interview) "What if we told you everything you've been taught about the fundamentals of golf is wrong" (or words to that affect)? Or maybe because the "system" was marketed through Medicus and was therefore seen as a money grab infomercial and not a serious swing method? For whatever reason, there are a lot of people out there that don't like S&T.; What I find humorous is golf announcers commenting on golf swings like Tiger, Hunter Mahan, Rose, etc.. that are all basically S&T; swings. The sad part is Andy and Mike are probably never going to get the credit they deserve. For me it is not worth the hassle of arguing with uneducated people about the merits of S&T.; I just tell people I;m working on a center pivot swing which is what S&T; is. The whole debate kind of reminds me of the Atkins low carb diet. When it first came out there was all this uproar about how bad it is for you and how it was going to cause heart disease, etc... Now most of the leading diets (Jenny Craig, Weight Watchers, Nutrisystem) are moving away from low fat diets and incorporating low carb principles. They talk about Glycemic index but it is really low carb.

D2 Feel is a good two-piece ball, soft with decent greenside spin.I used to play them a bit. Not sure about the xl 2000 but I think they were produced up to 2010 or so.

This is what I do as well. I use a 4' steel ruler I got at the hardware store. I covered the bottom side with felt. I raise the hole end a couple of inches so I'm putting up hill a bit. Great practice aid that forces you to hit the ball straight (since the ruler is only a couple of inches wide).

Those are a couple of great drills. I use a raised string line to practice my putting. Attach the string to two pencils/knitting needles/shishkabob skewers so the string is 6"+ above the ground. Put the ball directly under the string and putt. This really helps train you to get your eyes over the ball and putt on your intended line. Works well practicing both straight and breaking putts

I'm not complaining and I'm certainly not worried about "my loss" of $35. Sometimes you take a lesson and it doesn't work out for you, other times it works out great. I know on SITD there are lots of satisfied customers but this method just isn't for me.

Love my Wishon MC949 16.5° 4 wood. Get the same distance as a 3w and much easier to hit off the fairway.

I second the suggestion about the Mangum stuff. If you have the video I would review that a couple of times as there really is a lot of info pertinent to your issues.