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What can I learn about wood shafts from my driver fitting?

3 posts in this topic

Hi All,

A while back I did a driver fitting, and it went really well (Read: Awesome).  I was fit into a stiff E-360 Fujikura shaft and it has been great.  Recently, my 3 wood broke (there was an incident with a car trunk) and I'm going to upgrade to the RBZ woods.  I called my fitter that did the driver and he said he doesn't fit wood shafts.

Given that I "know" what works for me in a driver shaft, can I make any assumptions (Torque, weight, flex, etc...) about a good wood shaft, or do I need to go pay for and find someone to fit the woods shaft as well?

I'd like to get a 3 and a 5 wood, but I'm not sure if I'll get similar results with a similar shaft to my driver that has worked so well, or if woods are just a different animal?


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It all depends on how the shaft plays out.

By chance, I had an R.flex Fuji E360 on my Callaway Hyper X Tour driver (circa 2009).  It worked out pretty well. I got the same in an X Tour 3W - without really getting fitted, assuming the shaft would work in 3W also. As it turned out, I sometimes had trouble getting sufficient height on shots off the fairway if I wasn't swinging well.

A driver you hit off a tee, but the FW off the fairway may need a bit more shaft help than the driver. At 8 HDCP you probably have really good clubhead speed, so it may not be an issue for you. However, some players who enter the hitting zone fairly level with their driver are said to "drive the the ball rather than launch it." Such players may find a 4W works better off the deck than a 3W.

When in doubt, get some launch monitor data to help you in your choice.


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You'll never know until you try.  However, I bought my 910D3 with the ahina x-stiff and loved it.  They didn't have any shaft options I liked in stock for the 910F, so I decided to order the exact same shaft (72 grams, ahina x-stiff) in my 3-wood.  I like the shaft even better in the 3-wood, so it worked out well.


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