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How important is the shaft?


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I have always just went and bought the driver from the store with a shift staff. I have heard people say the stock shafts are junk. Is it worth the money to go and buy a 300.00 club and then replace the shaft. What is your guys' opinions on the launch monitor? Is it worth the money?
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The article below is very interesting:


golf.about.com/od/faqs/f/fleximportance.htm

you can google " how important is the golf shaft"

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

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The shaft makes all the difference in the world. It's the engine of the club. I guess my take on golf equipment is that if someone is willing to buy expensive clubs, they might as well pay the little extra for a decent club fitting and/or shaft.

One more thing. Don't buy into all the hype over a specific shaft. I know many people will buy a shaft based entirely off reviews; however, just because a specific shaft might work for some people doesnt mean that it will work for you as well. Good luck and have fun!
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you could argue its more important than the head...

Daniel Duarte
905R UST Proforce V2 76g 44" S
904F 15, Graphite Design YS6+
MD Hybrid, 19 Degree, UST V2 Hybrid S
Pro M Gunmetal 5-PW, Nippon 1150GH Pro SVokey Oil Can 52 - RAWVokey Spin Milled Oil Can 56, 60 - RAWTEI3 Newport II - Torch Copper- Prov1x

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There is nothing junk about OEM stock shafts, infact many of the OEM shafts are the same as the aftermarket shafts and some are the same shaft that are co-developed by the club manufacturer and the shaft manufacturer.

Depending on what driver you bought many drivers have shaft options that are not just limited to the ones at your local proshop, it's just that many are too impatient to order the head and the correct shaft option they want.

The question in the title is not the same as the one you asked in the actual thread.

Is the shaft important, yes very important. Is the OEM shaft good enough for you, more then likely yes.

If the OEM shaft performs fine why swap it out for an aftermarker one?
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I'd say the shaft is as important as the head, if not more. Without a proper working shaft, the head, and most importantly you won't work to your full potential and vice versa. As you can see below, I've replaced all my stock shafts on my clubs, except for my wedges. The shafts I chose are what I feel best suit my needs. At my level, I feel I don't need to get fitted for the shafts I want, as I already feel and know which best suit me. Personally, I love searching for new shafts more so than I do the actual club head.

CPGA Member
Eagles Nest Golf Club
Toronto Highlands Golf

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Approx. how much does it cost to get fitted and reshaft a driver?

Driver: TM Rocketballz 10.5°, Stiff Shaft

3Wood: TM Rocketballz Tour 14.5°, Stiff Shaft

7Wood: Maxfli, Regular Shaft

5-PW: TM R7 Draw, Stiff Shaft

Wedges: 50, 54, 58° Cleveland CG14 or CG15

Putter: TM Rossa Daytona

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Approx. how much does it cost to get fitted and reshaft a driver?

I'm not sure about stores at the US, but here in Canada it depends on the store you're going to get fitted at, as all stores have different prices. Costs on reshafting a driver can vary, all depending on what shaft you're going to choose.

CPGA Member
Eagles Nest Golf Club
Toronto Highlands Golf

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The shaft is really important. It really does help.

Getting fitted for one is the same as a driver. All the different stores have their opinion, but it will be what works for you.

Usually now when you buy a new driver, you can get fitted then and not pay that much of a difference in price.

Joey R

In the Bag:

905T w/Aldila NV 75x 904F w/Dynamic Gold x100 MP-32 w/Project X 6.5 Vokey 52.08 BeCu 56 MP-R 60 Studio Stainless Newport 2 ProV1, ProV1x, or NXT Tour

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There is nothing junk about OEM stock shafts, infact many of the OEM shafts are the same as the aftermarket shafts and some are the same shaft that are co-developed by the club manufacturer and the shaft manufacturer.

Take a shaft that has been pured and then take the OEM shaft that's in the club and compare the two. If you could see the difference you might change your opinion.

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the shaft dictates the flight of the ball from it's kickpoint.
it can give you distance or control depending on its flex.

I could've spent less $ by buying a new driver...but I put the right shaft into my HiBoreXL and I've never been happier. It quickly became my 2nd favorite club to pull out of my bag...the 1st being my Scotty
DJ Yoshi
Official DJ: Rutgers Football
Boost Mobile Tour
In My Bag
HiBoreXL 9.5 White Board D63 Stiff Exotics CB2 5 Wood, Exotics CB3 3 Wood MP-60 5.5 Flighted Shafts 54 & Cleveland CG-10 60 Newport 2
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Take a shaft that has been pured and then take the OEM shaft that's in the club and compare the two. If you could see the difference you might change your opinion.

Umm, the process of having a shaft pured or spined or whatevery you want to call it has nothing to do with the quality of the shaft considering every shaft, good or bad can be pured. So a pured OEM shaft is no worse then a pured aftermarket shaft.

If you think only aftermarket shafts can be pured or the process makes them special, you are misinformed. An OEM shaft can be pulled and pured just as easily as an aftermarket shaft. Nothing is done to the shaft when puring, it simply takes the spin of the shaft and aligns it to the target line so the bend is straight and not influenced by the natural bend position.
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Wow, I guess you have it all figured out. I'll be sure to tell that to the people at the Performance Golf Academy.

I hope you do and they give you your money back for ripping you off...you don't believe me read it from the SST site itself.

http://sstpure.com/media/meng0008.html
"This affects every club that's out there and at every level of play," says Weiss. "But by positioning the shafts spine in a neutral position, clubmakers can eliminate equipment induced mis-hits for their customers and then make every one of their customer's clubs their favorite.

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beung's right. any shaft can be pured. it's just dealing with the inconsistencies of the shaft and what he said. but puring really doesn't make a huge difference in my opinion. i played my px's put in. then had them pured..and there wasn't a huge change... just a more consistent feeling throughout all the clubs.
DJ Yoshi
Official DJ: Rutgers Football
Boost Mobile Tour
In My Bag
HiBoreXL 9.5 White Board D63 Stiff Exotics CB2 5 Wood, Exotics CB3 3 Wood MP-60 5.5 Flighted Shafts 54 & Cleveland CG-10 60 Newport 2
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Well I think just find a shaft you are comfortable with and go from there, I know I have never really hit the driver well except in spurts, well my best friend snapped a shaft off an older Big Bertha he had bought at one of those play it again sports places, I bought the head off of him and then bought the exact shaft that was on my Callaway 3-wood that I hit very well (stock shaft) and I am hitting it very well! Maybe its all mental, but I did hit 9/14 fairways last week and over the past 2 years I used to hit between 1-4! But thats just a lowly high-handicapper's opinion :)

:
Driver:  MachSpeed Black 10.5 Fukikura Motore Speeder shaft

1Hybrid: VR PRO 15* (replacing my 3wood with this) 

Hybrids:  Baffler 18*, DWS 20*, TWS 23*

5I-GW  Mx-19 

  Wedges - 50.08/54.14/58.10 

Putter:iN Craz-e

Ball: Pro V1x or Callaway Tour i(z) 

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Note: This thread is 5755 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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