Degree driver? Or is it all about the shaft?

I got fitted for a driver and this was my problem going in.

I started out hitting a MacGreggor Mactec 10.5 degree, Fujikura regular flex, 50g shaft, and I loved it.  I could hit it far...for me....but I had a bad slice from time to time.

Trying to fix it partially with equipment, middle of last year I bought and used a Callaway FT-IQ i mix 13 degree, Fubuki 60g shaft regular flex.  I could hit it straight, but cost me a lot of distance.  I figure it was mainly from the higher degree.

So, I got tested officially with the real club maker guy (not his assistant as before).  He said I did go overkill on the degree of driver, going to a 13 from a 10.5.  He said I should have a 10.5 degree.  BUT he also said the head of a driver matters very little.  He said it’s all about the shaft.

My swingspeed is between 85-90.  Everything I read on the internet had told me to go to a 13 degree, but to also get fitted.  I get contradiction.

Does anyone have any advice on what I should do?  I could just buy a lower degree head and slap on my i mix?  Or should I let the guy build my club similar to what I did have but a tad heavier?  (He prefers an Acer XF 10.5 degree, regular flex with a low kickpoint and a torque of 4.5....whatever the heck that means)

Who/where did you get your "fitting" done?

They are a local shop in town and do a lot of business online.  I can send you their website if that is what you are wanting.

They both matter.  I'd suggest going to another fitter.  I've seen "club fitters" give out bad advice based on what they had in stock at the time.  Not saying that's what this guy is doing, but the loft does matter.

Okay - the more loft, the less sidespin, and the more backspin. The result is that within a driver line, a 13 will tend to go straighter but shorter, and higher than a 10.5 degree head of the same model.

Some heads are low spin, some are higher spin.

Some heads have variable thickness in their face design to promote more ball speed on off center hits - See Titleist 910, Callaway, Taylormade, Ping, etc. for example - there may be others.

Some heads have loft, lie, and face angle adjustments - see Titleist 910, Taylormade, Callaway as examples, to fine tune a fitting.

Some heads look a bit more triangular than others instead of Pear or round - the soft triangle promotes club head stability for more forgiveness.

Some heads have bulge and roll across the face - which promotes forgiveness on toe, heel, low hit or high hits on the face.

So yeah, heads make a difference.

As to shafts, they help, too.

Torque - higher torque is not always bad. In fact, I find it very good -- for me. Low torque graphite tend to feel tight and may have some players swinging out of their shoes. Lots of studies recently - some players hit higher torque shaft straighter, longer and with less spin because they swing within themselves with those shafts.

Non-technical explanation of kick.

High kick - tend to throw the ball low

Mid kick - throw the ball on a mid trajectory

Low kick - tends to kick the ball up into the air.

Weight of shaft - lighter typically means you will swing the club slightly faster -- but light can throw off your tempo, some players may need 65 or 75g shafts. The typical Average Joe can deal with 46 to 56g driver shafts with new shaft technology.

Hope that helps.

As to the Hireko head, if it outperforms a well known brand and you like it, and the price is right....

Apparently, your club guy has recommended a 10.5 head with a low kick, high torque shaft to throw the ball into the air to help give you more height on your drives. If you hit the ball straight, it may work. If you don't, then work on your swing.

Id love to see someone post some launch monitor specs that comfirm the notion that more loft = less sidespin.

Inside out swing produces sidespin, and vice versa, regardless of loft. If you don't hit it square, it doesn't matter what loft it is.

Funny you should ask this. I was noticing more slices with my new 9* RBZ. I wanted to compare it with my R9 10.5. To the launch monitor I go....... RESULTS: RBZ 9* - Aldila MOI Proto 65 - Avg 15.1 launch, 1331 sidespin 3607 bacspin RBZ 9* with stock shaft - Avg. 16.1, 1551 sidespin, 3726 backsoin. R9 10.5* - Same shaft - Avg 12.3 launch, 700 sidespin, 3511 backspin. Keep in mind, this is just how it went for me. I did also remove the highest and lowest scores for each measurement and was sure to hit the same callaway hex chrome.