Ok, forget just getting woods, Im getting all new clubs.

Mine are about 10 years old, I don't hit them consistently at all, and I just want new ones.

I've been hearing things about the Nike Blades, TM R7, Cleveland Launchers, Mizunos... What else?

My natural swing always draws the ball. Then when i close my grip I can either straighen it out or make it slightly fade. I plan on going to Golfsmith soon to get my specs tested out, that should determine what type of clubs, right? (such as shafts)

I also plan on getting a hybrid. Hybrids take the place of high irons right? Or do they take the place of woods? I should still get a 3 wood? I was thinking D, 3w, 5w, 3h, 4h, 5i, 6i, 7i, 8i, 9i, PW, a 52d/54d wedge, SW 60d, P. That sounds right?

Any comments or reccomendations to start things out?

I love everything in my bag, and I purchased all that stuff about when I was a 25 handicap. Take a look at the stuff in my signature below, and those are some clubs to look into. They vastly improved my game, so check some of them out. (ie. Ping G5 driver, Ping G5 hybrid, Bobby Jones fairway woods, Cleveland Launcher LP irons...)

well, i would start with your driver, you want to go somewhere that measure you clubhead speed and launch angle. this will set you in what shaft flex and loft to get. then i would get a 3 wood to match. next is hybrids, these replace long irons and can be used as a driving iron. lofts vary between 16* and 25* depending on what irons you want to replace. Now the irons, many people immediatly look at blade irons or something of the same. i would definately suggest "game improvement" irons. in my opinion the benefits dont outway the risks when it comes to blades. wedges and putters are more or less a feel and comfort thing. you see something and you like the way it looks or feels then it will prolly work for you. hope this helps and please dont take it as gospel. thanks and good luck

-matt

Jesus! I wrote a response twice and sandtrap required me to sign in again. Therefore, I lost the post!

Get fitted! The best method is on a launch monitor. Your local store may have one, if not you can go online and find local demo days in your area. Manufacturers sometime bring launch monitors with them to demo days. The LM will allow you to determine your club head speed, spin rates and carry distance. This is important to determining the weight, torque and flex point of your shafts.

Irons, a very tough purchase in my opinion. If you have money to spend then you are fine, but most people look at an iron purchase as a long term investment. You have to look at how much you are going to play and realistically how much you are going to improve. You may be fitted into a super game improvement iron that you may hit well now but if you improve as a player you may not need what those clubs provide players. This may lead to you making another purchase.

Twomey,

Since you asked for advice, I'll give you my thoughts. As tends to happen on any board like this, I'm sure someone will disagree and tell you why I'm wrong on some point. That's cool, as I'm not any expert. Simply an enthusiast.

You asked, " I've been hearing things about the Nike Blades, TM R7, Cleveland Launchers, Mizunos... What else? "

- What type of clubs do you want to play? Game improvement? Player's Irons? Blades?

I would recommend you start with a set of forged, cavity-back irons designed for the better player. The MP-30 is a modern example of what I am talking about. I started playing with ben hogan edge forged irons that were produced in like 1989, or something. They were my grandfather's, so the price was right:) You can pick up a set here ( http://www.globalgolf.com/product/go...edge.aspx?gd=3 ) for $40. Pretty good price, right? Sure beats dropping a grand at Golfsmith for whatever the newest fad is.

Clubs like this tend to have less offset and a smaller clubface. However, they still have some perimeter weighting to help you out on offcenter shots. I think that playing this type of club will prepare you for ultimately playing blades. If blades don't interest you, getting good with these clubs should result in you being very good when you transition to more forgiving clubs in the future.

I recommend you purchase a set of used clubs for ~100-300 bucks. For this price you should be able to pick up a set in good condition that was "state-of-the-art" at some point in the recent past. Titleist makes great clubs (obviously). Mizuno and Hogan do as well. Ask around and read reviews at sites like www.golfreview.com to determine what specific brand/club you think you would like. I would bet that some diligent research on a specific manufacturer will yield a short list of about 2-3 clubs, produced in the last 10 years or so, that everyone agrees were really great models. Like the manufacturer just got everything right, you know? (An example for me in the automotive world is the 1992 Honda Civic Si hatchback. This car was fast, had an amazing transmission, and was relatively cheap. Best part is that auto insurers and state troopers could not recognize what a speed-machine this car was! VW Golf VR6 from ~2003 is another example. Anyway, sorry for the tangent. I am sure you get the point.)

Once you find a set that interests you, search sites like globalgolf.com, and the used section of your local stores, to try and find a bargain. I picked up my current clubs, Mizuno MP-33's, in this fashion. Any research into Mizuno will reveal that these clubs are considered by many to be their best (if not some of the best blades produced by any manufacturer, ever). Some prefer the MP-14 or MP-29, but regardless they are good enough for me! I got them used for like ~240 bucks from GolfSmith. What a steal. I don't think the previous owner even played two rounds with them!

Obviously, the key point is do research and buy used! Whatever type of irons you end up with is up to you.

You asked, "I plan on going to Golfsmith soon to get my specs tested out, that should determine what type of clubs, right? (such as shafts)."

I think people get too worked up about shafts (and swing speed, etc). At this point, I am simply trying to make consistent contact to strike the ball with a downward blow, and to focus on proper alignment of feet, hips and shoulders to the target line. When I'm consistently hitting the ball on the sweet spot of the club face in the proper direction, I'll start comparing shafts. Until that time (which for me is probably 2 years away), I don't want to worry about shafts. If you are of average build, and you go the used club route, stick with Dynamic Gold S300. There is a reason they are the most popular shafts ever. I am sure you will hit them just fine. Tinker with shafts in the future when everything else about your swing is a constant. My 2 cents.

You asked, "I also plan on getting a hybrid. Hybrids take the place of high irons right? Or do they take the place of woods? I should still get a 3 wood?"

One of my best friends is a scratch golfer who played US Amateur's and had a scholarship in college. He has replaced his 2-iron with a hybrid. Many on this board and the various tours use hybrids as well. So there is obviously a benefit to them. I've never used one, simply because I want to be able to hit the long-irons before I actually replace them. This goes back to the above philosophy, but it is probably pretty foolish/hard-headed. Hybrids are likely the wave of the future. Replace your 2, 3, and 4 irons with them if you like. I just think it is cool, and a challenge, to hit the clubs that players hit in the past. (Kinda like how in North Shore, Chandler made Rick become proficient with the oldest and largest surf boards first, before he would let him try his hand at the newest boards. Sorry, another tangent.)

However, one benefit of hybrids, you can buy used 1-irons and 2-irons for dirt cheap. Try hitting a 1-iron blade on the range! (I'm sure you know the old Lee Trevino joke.)

I'd stick with a 3-wood, because it is a handy club off of the tee. In fact, get real friendly with your 3-wood. Nothing better than being able to turn to this club on the tee, confident that you can hit a solid shot, when you have to hit a tight fairway. Hit as many as you can until you find one you are comfortable with. I mentioned the F-50 in that prior post, and others mentioned some good choices as well (specifically, the cleveland launcher comes to mind). I also liked the Nike NDS 3w when I was starting out. Easy club to hit, I thought. I'll probably keep my 3w until the thing literally falls apart. (Finding a good 3-w is like finding an honest mechanic. Stick with it!)

You asked, "I was thinking D, 3w, 5w, 3h, 4h, 5i, 6i, 7i, 8i, 9i, PW, a 52d/54d wedge, SW 60d, P. That sounds right?"


I'd skip the 5w, particularly if you go with a hybrid. However, I have found that practicing with a 5w off of the deck is a good way to learn how to ultimately hit your 3w off of the fairway. (hope that makes sense.) So, if you can find a used 5w which is the same model as the 3w you ultimately settle on, it will probably be good to practice with when you haven't played in a while, or if you are having trouble hitting your 3w on approaches into par-5's.

With regard to wedges, I recommend you get 4. You PW will likely be around 48 (depending on the age of your clubs/choice of manufacturer. Older clubs were less lofted than many of today's clubs, and some man's just use weird lofts.) Most people recommend 4 degrees between clubs, so if you have a 48 PW you can get a 52 gap wedge, 56 sand wedge, and 60 lob wedge. If you decide to only carry 3 wedges, drop the lob wedge from your bag first, because it's the hardest to hit and will get you in the most trouble. But it is a very useful club to have in your bag, in my opinion.

My recommendation for the driver is the same as with the other clubs. Buy a used model from 2-4 years ago. I hit a titleist model that is like 6 years old. Bought it cheap and I can hit it 300 yds. Why would I buy a new club?
Clubmakers are always introducing new drivers. You should be able to find a cheap one that is of good design fairly easily.

The good shops in my area allow you to demo a used club. Just give them your credit card number and check-out the driver, 3w, or whatever and take it to the range for a few days. If you like it, you just call them and they charge your card. If you don't like it, you just return it at no charge. (assuming you didn't scuff it or something. Must be in the same condition.) I love these guys and try to give them my business. Other stores require you to buy the club first, even if it is used, and you can only return it for store credit, or they will buy it back at 90% of what you paid. I try to never buy anything from these stores. Just FYI.

Overall, I say go D, 3w, 2h, 3h, 4i, 5i, 6i, 7i, 8i, 9i, Pw, GW, SW, P. If you like switch the 2h out for a 60 lob wedge. But my main suggestion is to buy the great club designs of the past ~8 years, buy them used, play them alot, and ultimately formulate your own strategy. As you get better, trade in these clubs and buy other used models that suit you better.

Take the money you've saved and get a membership to a good course that allows you to play all the time. And then play all the time. ha ha. And when you have reached the point where you are confident with your shotmaking on the course, and the results are consistent with your intentions, splurge and get fitted for a set of your dreams clubs with rifle-flighted shafts and a scotty cameron putter. If you never develop confidence in your swing on the course, at least you have saved some money:)

You have some great ideas, and ultimately this is all your decision.
In my opinion, the most important part of your game is the short game. I can't tell you how many people i have seen hit a drive 270+, hit a nice 3 wood up the green on a par five, and not get up and down. I think it is a great idea to invest in wedges. I'll start there: I really don't think that you would really need 4 wedges. Plenty of players survive on just two or three. I would recommend (if you have a 48* PW) a 53* and a 58*. the make and model is all preference. With this set up you will have 5* between each wedge. this is fine. also, 58* is both considered a sand and a lob. You just need to adjust your placement and that sort of stuff. A 53* is considered a gap but i have seen people hit bunkers shots with it. Try all types of shots before you buy (if possible). Try off the fairway, rough, flop, chips, pich, etch.
As for irons, your 25 handicap (according to your pic and stuff) shows me (though i do not know) that you can be somewhat inconsistant at times. I would recommend buying game improvement irons. These include:
Ping Raptures-expensive but very long and consistent,
Wilson Di7-good value and very long,
Nickent 3DX-longest irons on the market and can include hybrids,
F2 irons-consisent. The list goes on
Of course you could go used and get anything from a callaway to a ping to whatever. I would get used just b/c of value, but if you have the $$ then new is great.
Hybrids-Find out what iron distance evens out. What i mean by this is if you hit your 6-iron 140, 5-iron 150 and your 4-iron 155, distance has stopped on your 4 iron. You may not have a fast enough swing speed to get the ball up or just not be comfortabe hitting it. This is what a hybrid is for. It is also great out of the rough. And it can be used to chip with. Just try hybrids out. The TM's are great but some don't like the set up. Try before you buy, especially with these.
Woods-Get at least 3 and 5. Maybe a seven depending on your game. Again try before you buy.
Driver- 25 handicaps generally have trouble getting off of the tee with a driver. You may not, idk. If you do, a driver may be a waste of money. It is by far the most expensive club, and the hardest to hit. It is also not used that often. On a par 72 (4 par 3s), you use it 14 times maybe less. How many times do you use a particular wedge or your irons? I would recommend (if you have trouble with the driver) to not even buy a driver. Tee up your 3 wood and be in the fairway. If you are a 25 handicap, then you should try to play bogey golf. On a par 4, this would be fairway, lay-up, pitch/chip to the green, and two put. Bogey every hole and you have a 90. If you play bogey golf, distance on drives is second to fairways

This is what i recommend be your set up (but it is your decision):
3W,5W,3H,4H,5H,5i,6i,7i,8i,9i,PW,53*,58*,putter
Maybe drop the 5H and get 7W or driver.

Awesome, thanks for the help everyone. Den Nuggs you're right, I am inconsistent and I do need player improvement clubs. I didn't realize that blades were much tougher to hit than back cavities. Now I am getting them for sure, back cavities, blades won't cross my mind.

I know your confusion. I was in the market for new clubs and I wanted a good club to help my swing, but also I wanted it to be good enough for me in 2-5 years. Which may not be possible, but I went for an intermediate club that was a cavity back but still able to do things as I get better.
I hit all the Golf shops in the East and South East Valley trying all different clubs. I narrowed my search down to 4 clubs and keep hitting them and hitting them on the demo floor. I know that isn't a true judge, but that was the best option I had.
Then I knew I was going to buy my clubs from Van's Golf since they offered a 90 day return or exchange if I didn't like the clubs. What more can you ask for? So after hitting all the clubs on there indoor range for a month I really liked the Mizuno MX-25's. As you can see they are still in my bag.

Your best bet is to go into the store and try them out. Hit the snot out of them and see what you like the best. They can also fit you to your clubs.

I would suggest starting out with getting the x20 irons, just picked up a set a couple weeks ago. They are probably the most forgiving irons that you can still work. Then I would find some wedges you like. Then driver, 3 wood, and finally a hybrid. The reasoning for that order are irons are your scoring clubs on longer holes, wedges when you get close and around the green, driver gets you in the fairway, 3 wood on par 5's, and hybrid for the long iron shot. I would go in to just test hit and not look for particular clubs. I went in looking at getting the titleist 755's, but ended up with the x20's, the rac tp's and mizuno 67's are nice if you really want player irons.

how long did that take?

Apologize for nitpicking but I disagree at this point. Shaft flex is very important. I wasn't taken seriously during a fitting at Puetz Golf here in the Seattle area and ended up with Regular shafts when I most certainly should have gotten Stiff. It makes a huge difference.

If you're approaching it casually, getting a cheaper set makes sense. If you truly want to grow into your clubs (irons through driver) pay close attention to your swing speed. Getting a good clubfitter to answer your questions, watch you swing, and look at your potential is a good idea.