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Game Improvement clubs = Easier to shank?


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During my round of golf today I had a thought, there is a wedge company (the name escapes me) that designs 'shank proof' wedges where the hosel of the golf club is set well back from the leading edge of the golf club. Better players irons are known to have minimal offset but still more offset than the wedge, so should in theory be slightly easier to shank than the 'unshankable' wedge. Game improvement irons however have a lot of offset (meaning the hosel of the club is in front of the leading edge of the club) so does this in theory make game improvement irons easier to shank?

Anyone else agree/disagree?

Discuss.

In my Ping UCLAN Team Bag

Nike Sasqautch 9.5 - V2 Stiff
Cleveland HiBore 15 - V2 Stiff
Ben Hogan Apex FTX, 2 - PW - Dynamic Gold StiffNike SV Tour 52, 58 - Dynamic Golf StiffYes Golf Callie - 33 inchesBall - Srixon Z star X

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No. My dad's forged Taylor Made blades are much easier to shank that my Taylor Made RAC OS.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2

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Are you reffering to the f2 wedge?

Thats the one

In my Ping UCLAN Team Bag

Nike Sasqautch 9.5 - V2 Stiff
Cleveland HiBore 15 - V2 Stiff
Ben Hogan Apex FTX, 2 - PW - Dynamic Gold StiffNike SV Tour 52, 58 - Dynamic Golf StiffYes Golf Callie - 33 inchesBall - Srixon Z star X

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I'm not entirely sure. Pretty much regardless where the hosel is in relation to the rest of the clubface, if you push the club too far to the outside, it's going to hit the hosel anyway.

However most offset clubs, when I do try them, are hook machines.
"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...
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Not sure if this still applies to days, most blades/clubs back in the day had the sweet spot really close to the heel of the club. Most GI have them right in the middle and bigger for the player to hit. If the blades now a days still have that same sweetspot set up as they did in the past, I would think it would be easier to shank a blade than a GI.

Driver: Tour Burner 10.5*
3 Wood: Hibore 15*
3 Hybrid: 3dx DC 20*
Irons: i5 4-PW
Gap Wedge: cg12 50*Sand Wedge: cg12 54*Putter: g5i anserIn my grom bag :)

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Not sure if this still applies to days, most blades/clubs back in the day had the sweet spot really close to the heel of the club. Most GI have them right in the middle and bigger for the player to hit. If the blades now a days still have that same sweetspot set up as they did in the past, I would think it would be easier to shank a blade than a GI.

When talking about the possibility of shanking I am talking about the pronounced position of the hosel on a game improvement club. Although your right sort of, it is favourable to strike the ball slightly favouring the heel rather than the toe.

In my Ping UCLAN Team Bag

Nike Sasqautch 9.5 - V2 Stiff
Cleveland HiBore 15 - V2 Stiff
Ben Hogan Apex FTX, 2 - PW - Dynamic Gold StiffNike SV Tour 52, 58 - Dynamic Golf StiffYes Golf Callie - 33 inchesBall - Srixon Z star X

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I think it's like this: if you shank it, you shank it.

Musclebacks tend to be a little smaller, and the sweet spot closer to the heel, so I think they're a bit easier to shank.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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Note: This thread is 5871 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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