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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


muskegman
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Cast clubs are probably more durable, which is why i suppose that is the method used for irons manufactured with higher handicaps in mind. Forged clubs will tend to ding and scratch much more easily. Ive had my AP2's for about a year, but they look like they're 5years old. They still perform fine, though. The process that goes into making a forged clubhead is also more expensive than casting, and alot of rec players (the primary golf market) arent looking to pay a whole lot of money for irons.

I dont think the process itself means much in terms of how the club plays, its just the reality is that GI irons tend to be cast, and players irons tend to be forged. Ping makes cast players irons and i could see myself using them as easily as i could a titliest or mizuno. Its all about the specs and what i want to club to do.
THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball
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The difference that is first and foremost is in the manufacturing process:

Cast irons are made by using a cast and pouring molten metal into it to produce the club head.

Forged irons are made by taking one piece of metal and using a very high pressure stamp die and pounding that one piece of metal into the shape of a club head.


As David mentioned above, forged irons tend to get dinged a bit easier because the manufacturers typically have to use softer metals in the forging process; whereas, manufacturers can use harder metals in the casting process because they simply melt them down to pour into the cast.


There is probably a bit more to the manufacturing processes themselves, but this is the general idea and the most basic difference between cast and forged irons.

In my X-Series Bag:

Driver G10 10.5*
Woods V-Steel 3W, 5W
Hybrids Pinemeadow ZR1 19* 3HIrons MX-19 4-GWWedge MP-R Black Nickel 54/10Putter Rossa Sebring AGSI+

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The difference that is first and foremost is in the manufacturing process:

I realize the difference in the process (poured vs stamped), but is one better or not? If I can buy a cast club that lasts longer, doesn't ding easily, and is debatable on feel: Why should I spend the extra $$$$ to buy forged?

I guess this argument stems from <10 handicap golfers to golfers that think they are the best, saying they will only buy forged irons, when probably only 1% of them can give me a good answer why.

G10 (VS Proto 65 X) or 905S (speeder X) / X Tour 3W (VS Proto S) / Adams Idea Tour Proto 18* (VS Proto S) / S59 Tour, Z-Z65 Cushin (D2) / Mizuno MP-T 51-06 , 56-10, / Miz TP Mills #6 ~or~ Cleveland BRZ #5
 
 
85,84,85,84

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I realize the difference in the process (poured vs stamped), but is one better or not? If I can buy a cast club that lasts longer, doesn't ding easily, and is debatable on feel: Why should I spend the extra $$$$ to buy forged?

If you truly feel this way then you should just buy cast irons.

Honestly this argument can go on forever and the bottom line is that it all comes down to preference. I prefer forged irons and I believe they do feel better, however there has been evidence that my thinking that they feel better is totally psychological. (I still think they feel better than cast irons.)
Taylormade R9 TP 9.5*w/ Diamana Kai'li 70 S (SST PURE)
Callaway FT 3 Wood
Adams Pro Black Hybrid 20* w/ Voodoo NV8 S
MP-68 3-PW irons w/ KBS Tour X-flex (softstepped 1x)
Cleveland CG-12 52.10Cleveland CG-15 DSG 56.08 Vokey Limited Edition 60-V w/ KBS black nickel S-FlexCircle T Beached Center Shaft...
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It is all in the feel and workability of the iron.

Swing a forged iron, and then swing a cast iron...

... You can immediately feel the difference apon striking the ball. The forged club feels much sweeter at impact.

:cleveland:         Classic 10.5° w/ Miyazaki C.Kua Limited X-Stiff
:cleveland:         Launcher FL 3 Wood 17° w/ Miyazaki C. Kua Stiff
:cleveland:         Mashie 3H 20.5° w/ Miyazaki C. Kua Stiff
:mizuno:   MP-57 4 - PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300
:cleveland:         588 - 52° 56° 60°
:scotty_cameron:          Studio Newport 2
:srixon:              Z-Star Tour Yellow 

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I just hate the bag chatter marks, i guess ill have to buy some iron covers for my next set of forged irons

R9
Burner 3 wood
Burner #3 hybid
R7 4-P
Vokey Spin Mill 54 58 Studio Select Midslant Newport

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I just hate the bag chatter marks, i guess ill have to buy some iron covers for my next set of forged irons

No. There is no need for those.

Driver: G15 9*
Fairway Wood: 904F 15* and 19*
Hybrid 3: Quickstrike II 19*
Hybrid 4: 4DX 23*
Irons: MX-23 5-PWedges: CG14 52* and 56*Putter: SabertoothBall: Laddie X or Gamer

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No. There is no need for those.

He just said what the need was.

In the blue Colts bag:

Driver - FT-5 10°
Hybrids - 4DX 15.5°, 20°
Irons/Wedges - CI-7 4-GW, SW | "Free" Warrior 60° LWPutter - TiffanyBalls - various

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I realize the difference in the process (poured vs stamped), but is one better or not? If I can buy a cast club that lasts longer, doesn't ding easily, and is debatable on feel: Why should I spend the extra $$$$ to buy forged?

I don't think it is debatable on feel, forged club have a softer feel then cast. Casting gives the manufactor more options in moving weight then forged. As far as one better then the other, that is debatable. They each have pro's and con's, based on those only you can decide which you prefer.

I played forged irons because I prefer the feel, the look, the head size of my current set over any of the cast clubs I have played.

Craig 

Yeah, wanna make 14 dollars the hard way?

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Casting is much cheaper then forging a clubhead. Cast clubs are usually designed for higher handicappers. For example the only cast club in Mizuno's range is the MX-100 which is designed for high handicappers. Forged clubs have better feel. Forged irons are much easier to bend than cast clubs
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I just hate the bag chatter marks, i guess ill have to buy some iron covers for my next set of forged irons

Check out the Sun Mountain Four 5 carry bag. It has 14 separate dividers, I use it and love it...

:cleveland:         Classic 10.5° w/ Miyazaki C.Kua Limited X-Stiff
:cleveland:         Launcher FL 3 Wood 17° w/ Miyazaki C. Kua Stiff
:cleveland:         Mashie 3H 20.5° w/ Miyazaki C. Kua Stiff
:mizuno:   MP-57 4 - PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300
:cleveland:         588 - 52° 56° 60°
:scotty_cameron:          Studio Newport 2
:srixon:              Z-Star Tour Yellow 

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I prefer forged, but nobody makes a midsize, low offset, pocket cavity back with notch weighting like the TPs.

R9 SuperTri 10.5*
Exotics XCG-3 4W 16.5*
Idea Pro 18* and/or 20*
i15
X-Tour 54/60PM Trinidad TP Black LDPAll in a SCB and MicroCart

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I'm one of the rare titliest guys that actually play a cast iron, check the sig. I got them because they were what I was looking for in an iron back when I got them and I'm still playing them because they work well for me. Although not as common, there are cast irons like my 762s out there with features typically preferred by better players (smaller head, thin topline, minimal offset ect.). One reason more forgiving models for high-handicappers aren't forged is because a miss-hit is going to feel bad no matter which way the club was made, negating the primary benefit of forged clubs. If you took two identical club heads, one cast and one forged, the forged one would have more loft/lie adjustablity and feel softer/better (mostly on off-center hits), and the cast one would last longer and be less expensive - both would perform the same.

Playing regularly again after a few years off. Started playing in 1999.
Whats in the bag?
Driver: R7 425 9.5*, Reax 65 shaft
3 Wood: V Steel 13* tour-spoon, M.A.S.^2 shaft
Hybrid: Rescue TP 19*, Dynamic Gold shaft Irons: DCI 762 (4-PW), Dynamic Gold shaftsWedges: Watson VI, 52.08, 56.14,...

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I prefer forged (the feel, the asthetics - mostly the sound), but I'm not so arrogant to say it's always better. The thought of stainless steel is interesting e.g. grooves not flattening out after 10 years of play. Imagine finding the perfect sand wedge or gap wedge and only having to replace the grips.

Regarding overall quality, the easier casting process allows the use of inferior metal. Not to say they're all inferior, there are top quality cast clubs, but there's a lot of junk too.

If you strike the ball properly and get the desired result use what you want - one is no better than the other. For me though, the thought of playing all cast irons again reminds me of having sex wearing a condom. It's good, but it could be so much better.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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  • 1 month later...
I'm shopping around for a new set of irons and am torn between what to get between blades or game improvement irons. I hear that getting blades at my handicap might not be such a good idea. However, I enjoy blades look so much more than anything else. I like my clubs to be very simple looking. My main question is, is it a terrible idea to get blades at my current skill level? I wonder how much I will handicap my improvement if I do decide to switch to blades.

Thanks,
Bauer
In My Bag (upgrading soon hopefully)

Driver: TiSI 10°
Irons: ISI Black Dot 3-PW (minus lost 5i)
Putter G5i Piper JMAX Milled Wedge 52°Ball: Whatever I Can Find
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Very very bad idea for blades at your handicap.


For blades you need to have very consistent ball striking.
A miss hit will end up very badly.
Wait until you get into single figures for blades

Game improvements are a good idea.
They go far and straight on all hits.

Go for game improvement irons.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...

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I'm shopping around for a new set of irons and am torn between what to get between blades or game improvement irons. I hear that getting blades at my handicap might not be such a good idea. However, I enjoy blades look so much more than anything else. I like my clubs to be very simple looking. My main question is, is it a terrible idea to get blades at my current skill level? I wonder how much I will handicap my improvement if I do decide to switch to blades.

definately a bad idea to get blades with your current handicap. Yes, you hear stories of people only ever using blades (TW and AK). But one is the best player ever, and the other is top 25 in the world.

There are more and more Game Improvement clubs out there with similar lofts to players irons, are midsize and with thin toplines too. I would definately look at a set of game improvement irons. You will definately enjoy your golf more and your handicap will come down considerably. My suggestions are: Ping i5, Pingi10/g10, Callaway x20/22, Bridgestone CGMid, Cleveland CG Gold and Nike VR Split Cavity. Make sure you get fitted with the RIGHT shaft. This is more important as your more likely to keep the same shaft-set through various clubs going-forward. Cheers, Chris
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...
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Get the clubs you feel most confident and comfortable with and which you hit best. My guess is that these will be the GI variety.

For the aspiring amatuars, no matter the handicap, it is more or less always better to err on the side of forgiveness over workability. Certainly for me I'd rather hit the ball consistantly straight than be able to hit a low cut into the wind every once in a while.

It's a tough game and forgiveness is important!

Driver - RAM FX V
3 Wood - Callaway Steelhead Hybrid - Mizuno MP Fli-Hi 21 degree
Irons - Titleist DCI 4-PW
Wedges - Cleveland CG10, 52, 56, 60 degree
Putter - Rife Antigua

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Note: This thread is 1426 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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