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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


muskegman
Note: This thread is 1426 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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As the title says, when should one start looking at forged blades vs cavity back? I know I'm probably far away from this point, but I'd like to have a goal to strive towards to get a set of Callaway X prototypes. I know it will probably take years with my game!

Forged != players' irons. Forged just is a way of making the clubs. There are plenty of cast players' irons (Ping i10s, for example) and plenty of forged clubs that are GI/SGI (much of Mizuno's MX series, for example).

What you seem to be asking is when to move to players' irons. Well, I moved when I was a handicap of about 23. Anthony Kim has always played blades. There are people who have won on the LPGA Tour with clubs that would be considered "Game Improvement". In fact, there are players on the PGA Tour with SGI and GI irons in their bag (although usually not for 5-W). So the answer is, it depends - why would you switch, where are you going, and what do you hope to gain?

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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Ben Hogan clubs are forged and have cavity backs for game improvement. Mizuno like stated above makes forged clubs that are for game improvement as well. So you can play forged right now if you'd like. I like the feel of forged over cast but some cast clubs like AP1's, Wilson Ci7's, Callaway X-22's, and Ping's all feel great. No need to limit yourself to "forged" clubs.

You guys can become 15 handicaps fairly easily since I am one. My ballstriking is horrible, I have quite a few duffs during the course of a round. My shortgame is far from spectacular. When you get here, you'll definitely want to get better which is the best part of the game and why it is so god darn addicting.

« Keith »

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It depends on what you want to do with your game. I know that I will never play blades. My skill will never reach that level, and I do not aspire towards it anyway. I do not have that much time, effort and money to put into golf in order to become a single digit handicap and start considering blades. My goal is a handicap index in the 15ish zone. So I will just play anything that's easy to hit, forgiving and goes straight and nice.

blades are not as hard to his as everyone makes them out to be! i hit a set of older mp 32s today and while miss hits might go shorter its not that bad

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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blades are not as hard to his as everyone makes them out to be! i hit a set of older mp 32s today and while miss hits might go shorter its not that bad

And that might be the catalyst I needed to pull the trigger on a set of X Prototypes!

In my Warbird bag:
Hyper X 10* (soon to be FT9 tour 9.5*!)
X Fairway 3 Wood
X Prototypes 3-PW
X Forged 54*.14 wedge X Forged 58*.10 wedge X Forged 64*.9 wedge Black Series #1 HX Hot balls

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haha there was a whole thread on just the subject that blades arent as hard to hit as there made out to be... but if you practice a decent amount i whould asume you whould be good off

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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Looks like I'm saying goodbye to this week's paycheck!

In my Warbird bag:
Hyper X 10* (soon to be FT9 tour 9.5*!)
X Fairway 3 Wood
X Prototypes 3-PW
X Forged 54*.14 wedge X Forged 58*.10 wedge X Forged 64*.9 wedge Black Series #1 HX Hot balls

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in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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Thanks for the links. Pouring over them right now. I'll give this one a week or two to mull over.

In my Warbird bag:
Hyper X 10* (soon to be FT9 tour 9.5*!)
X Fairway 3 Wood
X Prototypes 3-PW
X Forged 54*.14 wedge X Forged 58*.10 wedge X Forged 64*.9 wedge Black Series #1 HX Hot balls

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haha smart idea... im kinda in the same boat debating to get a players iron next... kind of discouraging i hit everything off the hossel at the range today then went to my local shop and hit in the cage for awhile and everything was perfect lol

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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It's true that blades aren't as bad as so many people make them out to be. My first set of irons when I was 13 was a set of Titlest 981, which although aren't blades, are definitely not game improvement. I've tried SGI, GI and players irons but it's really not all that much different. If you hit the blades really fat or thin, the chances are that you would've done the same with a GI iron.

What I Play!

x86 Stand Bag
Driver: 907D2 10.5* w/EPIC-S
Irons: 735.CM irons 4-PW PX 5.5FW Wood: 909F2 15.5* Aldila Voodoo SHybrid: 909.H 21* Diamana Blue Board SWedges: Vokey 250.08 (oil can), Spin Milled 54.11 & 60.07 (Black Ni)Studio Select 2.5Ball: Pro-V1x/Bridgestone B330s (or anything I...

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Thanks for the links. Pouring over them right now. I'll give this one a week or two to mull over.

IMO if you are a decent ball striker who does not suffer from slices then blades are not a problem to hit. Its when you are a slicer you need the offset etc that GI irons will give you. I have Mx900 set but i also have mp32 6iron and an mp67 6iron which i got just to practice with and i don't have problems with either of them.

In my Sun Mountain bag :

Driver : R7 Superquad
Irons : MX-900 3i - PW
Wedges : CG14 52 & 56Putter : 'Fang' #7Balls : TP Red

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Are Callaway prototype blades available for public purchase?
I would suggest Mizuno MP67 if you want blades.
My achievements:
Eagles: 0
Birdies: 18
Best Round: 89
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You may want to look into one of those progressive cavity back sets. They are great because the so-called "scoring irons" are blades but the long irons are cavity that makes them much easier to hit. It would be a nice intermediate set so you don't have to make the jump straight to blades, especially with the long irons.

909D3 9.5° w/ UST ProForce V2 (XS)
975F 14.5° w/ UST ProForce V2 (XS)
735CM 3-PW w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold (S300)
56° Spin Milled
60° Spin Milled Studio Style Newport 2 35" Pro V1x or Tour B330

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Looks like I'm saying goodbye to this week's paycheck!

If I was you, I would spend the money on lessons instead of new clubs. When you get down to a 20hc, then look into your blades. With a hc of 40, you are a poor ball striker. The proto's will frustrate and punish a poor striker. They will not improve your game. You will then be on here asking why your new clubs are 15 yards shorter than your current clubs. But it is your money.......
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I will never understand golfers. The object of the game is to be as good as you can be, why make the game harder than it needs to be? I love the look of blades as much as anybody, but I'm certainly not going to play them -- and I have a single digit index right now.

Driver: Hi Bore XLS Monster 9.5º Fujikura Gold Fit-On Stiff

3 wood: Hi Bore XLS 15º Fujikura Gold Fit-On Stiff

Irons: i10 3 - PW Dynamic Gold S300Wedges: Vokey 200 Series - 50º, 54º, 58ºPutter: Abaco 33"Ball: AD333

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The difference between forged and cavity irons are just the process of making, there is no right or wrong time to change ur iron types. Many ppl start off with forged blades and still handle them pretty well. The only reason people choose forge irons are becos they're made very precisely and many forged irons are custom for lower handicappers due to their setup such as sole width, offset etc. these lower handicappers look for workability rather than playability at that stage, becos with the offset they cannot freely shape their shots as much. Also the forge irons giv more accurate distance everytime u hit the ball.
hope it helps
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The object of the game is to be as good as you can be, why make the game harder than it needs to be? I love the look of blades as much as anybody, but I'm certainly not going to play them -- and I have a single digit index right now.

Because some people can be better with blades than GI irons. Better feel, more workability (particularly in shot height). I play worse with GI irons and I don't like the feel.

And no, last time I checked the object of the game is to get the ball in the hole in as few shots as possible. And this isn't an invitation to re-open the discussion of "why blades?" Look up the many previous times that discussion has already been had. In fact, maybe I'll just merge this thread...

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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Note: This thread is 1426 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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