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Who can tell the difference between a $300 and a $900 set of irons?


Note: This thread is 6309 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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Posted
I'd like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

Or it the difference only noticable to pros?

Posted
I like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

No. I bet if you removed the stamping from most clubs there would be few individuals who could actually tell the difference. There is an abundance of well-made equipment that because of limited marketing does not fall into the consciousness of the average golfer. Two prime examples are Snake Eyes and Geo. Snake Eyes makes a five-step process forged blade made from top of the line steel that can be purchased, new, for less than $300. Geo is a Japanese company that makes forged irons. You can purchase their head, 4-PW, for about $300. They look exactly like Taylormade RAC TP series and are made of the same steel. The savings is almost $600 per set.

Titleist 905T Accra SC75 M4 Shaft

Nike SQ 4W Accra T70 M4 Shaft
HB001 17* Hybrid with Mitsubishi Diamana Thump X Stiff Flex
Baffler Pro 20* Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Taylor Made 24* Burner Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Mizuno MP-32 5-PW Black Oxide Finish Project X 6.0 Shafts

Vokey 52* Oil Can Finish TTDG S400 Shaft

Cleveland 588 60* TTDG S400 Shaft

Rife Bimini Blade Putter

 

Ball-White and Round

 


Posted
Probably the better you are, the more you can tell the difference. And a lot of that would probably be personal opinion. As for me, I will spend the most I can afford AND am willing to spend. For me I would say that would be the 300-400 range. I could probably AFFORD to spend more, but I am not WILLING to spend more. Luckily, it's probably going to be 3 years or so before I will be buying a new set of irons.
My Equipment:
Northwestern 3-, 5-, 7- and 9-wood;
Goldwin AVDP Irons (5-10 plus PW);
U.S. Golf 60 degree wedge;
See-More Putter; Bushnell Yardage Pro 1000 Rangefinder;Golflogix GPS.

Posted
Neither Geo nor Snake Eyes seem to have a website. Are the Geo made in Japan?

Posted
Neither Geo nor Snake Eyes seem to have a website. Are the Geo made in Japan?

For Geo, you can go to http://www.tourspecgolf.com/proshop/...olf/index.html For Snake Eyes, you can find them on http://www.golfsmith.com/ps/browse.p...=275624+284598

Titleist 905T Accra SC75 M4 Shaft

Nike SQ 4W Accra T70 M4 Shaft
HB001 17* Hybrid with Mitsubishi Diamana Thump X Stiff Flex
Baffler Pro 20* Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Taylor Made 24* Burner Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Mizuno MP-32 5-PW Black Oxide Finish Project X 6.0 Shafts

Vokey 52* Oil Can Finish TTDG S400 Shaft

Cleveland 588 60* TTDG S400 Shaft

Rife Bimini Blade Putter

 

Ball-White and Round

 


Posted
are the Wilson's Pi5? If so, get them! I got a brand new set for 125$ brand new and they are amazing! They look almost like blades but are forgiving.

Sumo 10.5*
R7 Draw 15* 3W
3dx 17* 2H
Pi5 3-PW
Spin Milled Vokey 54* CG11 60* C-01


Posted
I'd like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

But are the Pings and the Wilsons at all similar? Pings are a fairly distinctive sets of clubs which people seem to readily discern and either love or hate them. There is one heck of a lot of technology and forgiveness in the Raptures and great playability in the I10s. The new Ping players clubs are really hot and forgiving. Wilson may not be in the same league.


Posted
It depends which $900 clubs you are comparing the $300 clubs to. If the $900 set is forged, you will notice a difference in feel over the $300 set which will likely be cast.
You likely wont see a night and day difference from the $300 set to the $900, but if you are an accomplished player (a 20 handicap or lower), you will notice a difference.
I used to have a set of Knight Virage irons (oversize SGI) and I can tell a difference in feel from those clubs to the Titleist DCI 981s (cavity-back player's irons). The Knights didnt feel any different no matter how bad you mishit them, but with the Titleists they feel and sound different when you mishit.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted
as someone who just made this switch recently and now has a few rounds under his belt with the new sticks, I would answer yes in my case.

With my game and ball striking imprevemnt came the need for a better "class" of irons. They are smaller heads, much less offset, and less forgiving on mishits. I actually "felt" a mishit 8 iron today and knew while the ball was in the air it would come up short. I would never have noticed with my old irons. Was right at the flag but out towards the toe... a strange place for me to strike a ball for certain.

On the flip side, perfectly struck a 7 iron that went a country mile... much longer then I am used too but it felt so sweet! Still trying to learn the new distances; I am longer with the new irons.

I moved from a super game improvement to a set between game improvement but not yet blades.

Depends on who you are and where you are along your quest for game improvement.

Taylormade TP 2010 9.5 Fubuki stiff
07 Burner 5W stiff

Adams F11 Ti 3W Adilia NVS Stiff
Bobby Jones 21* & 25* Hybrid
AP1 4-gw
CG14  60*::X forged Vintage 56* Ping b60 putter Balls: Bridgestone B330, ProV, Goals: Shot par over 18 holes, Best shot: Par 5 18th hole, Alling Memorial New haven CT; holed my 2nd shot for an Albatross! (June 20th, 2008)


Posted
I'd like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

Are the price tags still on the shafts?

Driver: 400 SZ
Irons: Maltby custom fit KE4's
Sandwedge: Maltby Slider
Others: random selection


Posted
The guy I play with the most often uses a set of Dunlop irons he bought at Target. He shoots in the mid 30's and does not even have a pitching wedge or wedges. He will just borrow mine or whoever is closer to him. I'm not saying to go buy a set of cheap irons at Wal-Mart, just see which you like better.

In My Bag:

L5V 9.5*
X-Hot 3W
3H HybridIrons: Soon to Come X-Tour Forged 52* 56* 60* Wedges Detour 1


Posted
I'd like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

If you really are a 36 HCP, IMHO you should go with the best, yet least expensive game improvement clubs you can find. At this point just striking the ball much less straight is probably your biggest challenge. So, that said, you probably won't notice much of a difference because you'll suck with all of them.

I am a 23 HCP and consider myself a average to below average player. I don't think I'll ever have the time or skill to shape shots. I just want to get it to the green and give myself a shot at Par. A few years ago I looked at $900 Pings, $700 Callaways, $500 Adams and a few others. I bought the Adams A2 OS because I felt they offered the best value for my game. I liked the Adams so much I just picked up the latest generation off Ebay for $450 shipped to my door. Good clubs, good price and I couldn't be happier. They were good for *me*. I guess what I'm saying is that you should really hit them all at the shop and figure out which club(s) are going to give you your best Return on Investment and buy them. Good luck!
Drivers:
FT-i Draw 9* W/Grafalloy Red
Sumo2 5900 9.5* W/Grafalloy Red

Irons: A3OS 3-PW Graphite/Steel regularWedges: A3OS GW, SW, LWPutter: Rossa Monza SpiderLittle round white thing:

Posted
i can certainly tell the difference to my crappy wilsons ultras to the ap1's. no question about it

Driver: Taylormade R11 set to 8*
3 Wood: R9 15* Motore Stiff
Hybrid: 19° 909 H Voodoo
Irons: 4-PW AP2 Project X 5.5
52*, 60* Vokey SM Chrome

Putter: Odyssey XG #7

Ball: Titleist Pro V1x


Posted
I dont think its price that makes a club work for me. It is more about feel. Some cheaper sets feel better than expensive sets and vice versa. Go with what you are comfortable with and is in your budget.

Posted
Take the advice of that guy who said "you'll suck with either".

On a semi serious note, I don't think price is as relevant as some others.
What's in my bag are the clubs I like right now.
They range in age from 4 years to 30 years.
I think some people exhibit their clubs as status symbols.

I played the best golf of my life in the 80s with sets I built myself.
Total cost of the irons was like $18 a club.
Plus, those original Ping knock-offs (which all said Tour Model some place) had grooves so illegal (now) they literally peeled the cover off.

Best, Mike Elzey

In my bag:
Driver: Cleveland Launcher 10.5 stiff
Woods: Ping ISI 3 and 5 - metal stiffIrons: Ping ISI 4-GW - metal stiffSand Wedges: 1987 Staff, 1987 R-90Putter: two ball - black bladeBall: NXT Tour"I think what I said is right but maybe not.""If you know so much, why are you...


Posted
I'd like to buy a set of graphite Pings ($900), but Wilsons ($300) are closer to my budget. So I'd like to ask: can anyone really tell the difference between a decent, inexpensive set and a top-of-the-line set?

Price is driven by the materials that are in the set and the design gives you a difference in performance for your specific swing.

The Hibores are middle of the road but the most forgiving of the irons. Feel is subjective and forged clubs have a certain feel that are unlike cast clubs - regarding Muscleback and blades compared to cavity backs. However, there are forged cavities and cast cavities that feel very similar, to me, (Cobra S9 or the Original Fusions) to forged cavities (Apex Edge). What is most important is what feels right for you and what gives you the performance that you expect.

STR8 Dymo 10.5
Dymo 3W
Mid Rescue 3
MP-33 4-PW
Eidolon 52* GW LW, SW Titleist Bullseye Putter


Posted
Most people cannot tell the difference. Feel is a word tossed around loosely in the golf world. The golf ball stays on the clubface for a short period of time. A solid shot is a solid shot. However:

Technology is an amazing thing, balls, clubs, grips, bags, GPS you name, it helps.

Wilsons to Pings? Not the biggest deal if they are both their latest models.

Give a nike Cavity back iron to Tiger, and then a wal-mart set. You betcha that he'd pick that out like a sore thumb.

Give it to a beginner, or maybe someone less experienced. No difference at all.
Driver : 905 D2, Proforce V2 76 gram
Fairway: Steelhead 4 wood, S300
Irons: Pro Carbon Forged, Project X stiff
Wedges: Vokey, 50, 54, 58.Ball: :Titleist: ProV1xGlove: Players Leather.Where I play?Shawneeki Golf Club, Newmarket, Ontario Canada-If people gripped their knife and fork the same way...

Note: This thread is 6309 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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