Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6275 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I was wondering how much would the flex of a UST ProForce V2 65 gram stiff shaft change with a 1" tip trim. According to their website, you can trim these shafts from the tip to fit fairway woods. Their specs are 1" tip trim for 3 woods and 2" for 5 & 7 woods.

So If you have one of these in your driver, and it is but cut to a finished length, would tip cutting the shaft have as much of an effect on flex as it would with say, a true temper steel shaft?

Would love some input from anybody that knows how that works with graphite and this shaft specifically. Thanks in advance for the help!

Posted
Well tip cutting anything will automatically make it more stiff. You will change the kick-point in the shaft, but usuing a driver shaft for a fairwood is very common.
So you will have youself a stiffer shaft that will most likely deliver you a lower ball flight with the higher kick point.

Posted
Well tip cutting anything will automatically make it more stiff. You will change the kick-point in the shaft, but usuing a driver shaft for a fairwood is very common.

All of that makes perfect sense except the kickpoint. It seems to me (and someone can correct me) that if a kick point was at a certain point, that point would be lower on the shaft it that shaft was tip cut. And conversely that point would raise toward the butt with a butt cut.

Thanks for the input.

Posted
Yes thats right stacey_e, trimming from the tip would lower the kick point, not sure how much it would affect the ball flight though.
adams.gif Speedline fast 10 9.5˚
adams.gif Speedline fast 10 15˚
adams.gif A7 17˚
adams.gif Idea Pro 3-PW
mizuno.gif MP T-11 52˚, MP T-10 58˚  cameron.gif Red X  titleist.gif NXT

Posted
I believe, though, that the lower ball flight would be attributed to the shaft becoming stiffer.

Posted
I believe, though, that the lower ball flight would be attributed to the shaft becoming stiffer.

I believe that is right. I've even heard and read that flex point has little effect if you don't have a late wrist release. Even if you held your wrist angle late, moving the flex point an inch would seem to me to have far less effect on ball flight than the stiffening of the shaft that would occur.

I started the thread for opinions on just how stiff that would make a shaft. I suppose there are quantitative ways to measure the change (shaft frequency?). From what I'm hearing so far, a 1" trim on this graphite shaft would have a great deal of stiffening effect. The thing that does interest and confuse me is this. If the same shaft is designed to be tip trimmed one inch for a 3 wood, how does that not make a 3 wood built to spec with the same shaft in the X-Stiff (or whatever) range? I think I explained my question? Let me try again. If I built a 3 wood with the V2 65 stiff I should tip trim 1" and but trim to length, say 43". So there I have a stiff flex 3 wood. But if I tip trim that same shaft 1" and put it in a driver with a finished length of 44" would that somehow make it play "stiffer"? If anything it seems that the shaft being longer would make the shaft more whippy. But I suppose this has a lot to do with head weight? Thanks again for all the input so far, and the input to come.

Posted
Why don't you just Butt cut the shafts and not worry about changing the flex and the kick point? You would basically have the exact same shaft as you did before but a little shorter. You wouldn't be changing much of the shaft if you were to do that.

Posted
I believe that is right. I've even heard and read that flex point has little effect if you don't have a late wrist release. Even if you held your wrist angle late, moving the flex point an inch would seem to me to have far less effect on ball flight than the stiffening of the shaft that would occur.

When you start tip trimming for different length clubs, it isn't the length that is most important here. In most cases the shorter club has a heavier head (a typical 3w weighs 5 to 15 grams more than a typical driver) - a constant swingweight thing (or constant MOI).

If you shorten your driver and don't increase the head weight, you'll drop the SW significantly. But in that case I would not do any tip trimming to maintain flex. dave

In The Bag:
- Wishon 949MC 10.5* Driver
- Wishon 525 F/D 3W
- Wishon 515 949MC 5W
- Wishon 60* Cx Micro LW- Wishon 550M SW (55*)- Wishon 550M GW bent to 50* - Wishon 550C 6i - 9i (9i bent to 45*)- Wishon 321Li 3i/4i/5i hybrids- Odyssey Two Ball Putter


  • 2 months later...
Posted
old thread i know, but my question relates to this topic :P. im considering a ping g10 9degree with a ust v2 stiff shaft .. i believe the standard length of the shaft in this club is 46 and the shaft is rated from 95-105 ss. my ss is around 110-115 average. would tip trimming this shaft result in it playing like an xstiff if after getting this driver i feel its to soft?

Note: This thread is 6275 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Wordle 1,816 4/6* 🟨🟨⬛⬛⬛ ⬛⬛🟨🟨⬛ ⬛🟨🟩⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I mean there has to be some thought. For eg., something like 'soft knees and wrists' at set up and maybe a dynamic 'left arm to chin' as a trigger to start DS. I have these one or two anchor thoughts and have served me well. In fact, my wildest swings are the one where I have no thoughts or if I forget to walk thru my anchor thoughts. In contrast my best rounds are where I am consistent with the anchor thoughts.    OTOH, if I am running my entire half hour lesson (hypothetical) with some pro that I had last Saturday or whatever before every swing then I'm probably in trouble before I even get over the ball.      
    • Two bits. Bit 1 The NCAA's appeal of Brendan Sorsby being granted a temporary injunction will not be heard until February, so there will be nothing to prevent Sorsby from playing the full season and potential CFP.  Bit 2 The Big Ten Conference will hold a meeting and is expected to ban all of its athletic programs from playing Texas Tech in the regular season. Georgia has done the same. The SEC will meet to consider a similar ban. Fellow Big 12 members TCU and Kansas State are spearheading a similar ban, but the conference charter might not allow it. Meanwhile, Big 12 athletic directors are meeting this week to explore what options the conference might have.
    • No, but I'm also in disagreement that golfers have no thoughts over the golf ball, and/or don't ever think I've met someone I truly believe is thinking nothing but "target" or something on most shots.
    • StuM,  I have, in the past, added a left handed club. (Ususally a 7 iron) However, I usually take a stroke penalty and move the ball to where I want it.  I play for fun and in a pinch can use theback side if my club if I don't want the penalty stroke.    RetiredOldMan,  Terry 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.