Iron help

[I KyotE I]

So I am now realizing that maybe I can't use players irons. So when I was at dicks today I was just window shopping and I picked up a few clubs. Some of the game improvement clubs bugged me in the fact that I could see the bottom flap on the cavity on the long irons. I was hoping to get insight on some improvement irons that don't let me see the back. I guess I can get past the thick topline but being able to see the back is just too much.

And for that matter...I know most gi clubs are there so that even if you don't make good contact it goes about as far, ect. my problem is that I don't get the club square at impact. is me using thin sole, shallow cb irons now the cause of that? or is buying gi irons a good way to go about getting rid of a 15 yard slice? I was looking at the nike victory full cavity and I could still see the back up to the 5 iron.

If anyone has maybe a idea of what I might be a good iron choice for losing some of that slice and not being able to see the back. It feels like I hit the ball fairly clean I just can't get square.

[LBlack14]

Golfsmith P2's would be perfect for ya. The older version. Thinner topline minimal offset and medium sole width with forgiveness, a players cavity back. They are on clearance for $6.94 a head right now.

Check out my WITB photos.

[I KyotE I]

After buying the shaft, how much would it cost in store to shaft them? That is way in my price range haha. cheap is sometimes good =D

[PiKapp23]

It might be worth checking out the TaylorMade r7 Draw irons. A friend of mine who has fought a slice as long as I've played with him finally broke down and purchased these and they have really helped him. They are not quite like the Draw drivers in that they do not lead to hooks on a well struck ball, but they do some correction. He picked his up off RockBottomGolf.com for about $250 (or less). I'm not sure about the look at address, though. They are not as oversized as some GI models. They are sleeker and less bulky than most other GI irons. These were the top choice on the Gold Digest Hot List in 2007 in Game Improvement Irons (or Super GI), I think.

[golfinanuj]

I really like my Ben Hogan BH-5. The sole on it is as small as i've seen for a game improvement iron and the cavity looks very classy. You can get that for around 150 or less. They hit very solid and would definitely be something you can improve with.

[Snake]

I don't know if you consider MP52s players irons, but you could give those a look. They are relatively forgiving cavity backs but with a thin top line and a narrow sole. MX200s would be Mizuno's next step up the game improvement ladder. I have never liked the idea of draw biased clubs. It just seems like putting a band-aid on a broken arm. I'm sure I could benefit from them as much as anyone, but I would rather try to get my swing right than use a quick fix. Just my 2¢.

[noefi13b]

Have you considered Wilson staff Di7 or the just released Di9?

I have just bought a set (Di7) after read some good reviews and am awaiting delivery.

They are going pretty cheap on Ebay due to the new Di9 being released I assume..

Cheers,
Dek

[kevntri]

Cutting across the ball causes a slice. Offest clubs will help, but it is just a bandaid and the faulty swing is still there and will limit your progress.
My suggestion is take the first $100 or so you are going to spend on irons and get a few private lessons.
If you learn what is causing your slice, it opens up a lot of options.

Sorry if I sound like a prude.......

[LBlack14]

  I KyotE I said:

After buying the shaft, how much would it cost in store to shaft them? That is way in my price range haha. cheap is sometimes good =D

I'll tell ya some other heads to check out are at

www.Hirekogolf.com the Acer Xp 905 Pro's, a beautiful head for $8. Also there NEW XK Pro is $9 per head, but none any better than the P2 IMO. Apollo stepless shafts are $3.15 a piece. I've played them and they are a very smooth and under rated steel shaft. I align my shafts NBP to target or spine @ 12 o'clock. I can take you to forums where people praise Hireko and Apollo products. These are peeps that are not ignorant to the fact that alot of components are just as good as OEM products. You get the stuff and ship it to me, I'll spine the shafts and build 'em for ya. Just a cheaper option on quality stuff. Don't let anybody tell ya any different. There's many cheaper options than the OVER-PRICED OEMs, believe me.

[cfmgolf]

Please don't take the the wrong way, but if you have a consistent 15 yard slice, and you know this, my recommendation would be to not purchase anything and spend some time with a decent teacher correcting the problem. This big of a slice just can't be cured with new equipment. You can probably get a little less slice with a draw set of irons, lot of offset, etc. but i don't think you will be happy until you can get the club into the proper position to hit a straighter shot. Once you can get the swing back in sync, it opens up enormous possibilities for clubs. Hope this helps - sorry for sounding preachy. Good Luck.

[Bamma]

I agree with the lesson suggestion, and need to do some of that myself as I get set to start playing again after a couple year layoff. Discounting that, I still would have a difficult time answering your question because I really do not know the price range. You say you want something fairly inexpensive, but that is all relative. Example: I purchased just this weekend a set of Big Bertha 2006's used from Golfsmith for $309. When my wife asked how much I spent I said they were "pretty cheap," which they were given prices I have seen elsewhere for those clubs in similar condition. When she pressed for more info and got the price paid, she did not consider that "pretty cheap" at all.

So, we can recommend any number of good clubs for what we consider pretty cheap, but to one person that would be $300. I see one person recommended the Hogan BH-5 which can be had used for under $100 or around $150 new at Rockbottom I believe. Probably a great suggestion in that range. The TM R7 draw irons recommended will run you close to $300 new, but are supposed to be quite a good set for folks suffering your type of swing issue.

Best of luck.

[Kcas77]

Any of the macgregor mt line.

[I KyotE I]

I know why I slice. I just can't correct it. The last teacher I had couldn't get me away from a hockey swing. I have a very still lower body from start to finish and I can't seem to break that. I tend to hit about 7/10 irons shots straight. I just don't think that is good. If anyone lives in CO and has a recomendation for a instructor, that would be good. I live in Denver in school months, and CO Springs in summer. Thanks for the constructive feedback.

[elchene]

Lessons first... Here are some nice GI irons that don't have a bulging cavity but are plenty forgiving: Mizuno MX-23/MX-25, Adams Idea Tech A4

[Caddyshack]

  elchene said:

Lessons first... Here are some nice GI irons that don't have a bulging cavity but are plenty forgiving: Mizuno MX-23/MX-25, Adams Idea Tech A4

Add the CG gold to that list, very forgiving with a tradational look. Should be pretty cheap too now that the CG7 have been released.

[Celler]

The Cobra FP's are a nice Game Improvement set. Worth taking a look at and not as bulky as most GI clubs. The Nike CCI cast irons are nice as well and offer a pretty thin top line. Both are good sets

[I KyotE I]

topline thinkness I can live with...it is seeing the bottom of the back cavity that does. The golds I have thought about I'm calling around here. 200$ for a lesson is something that I havn't really decided on. I could buy dvd's and continue on my self teaching pride for that cost. I would like to see 100$, that I could live with.

[jonesc03]

I think there are two issues here. One is equipment and the other is technique.

I am of the mindset that, while you cannot buy a better swing, equipment can have a huge impact on the result of any swing. If it were me, I would start by analyzing your swing. Setup, grip, swing plane, swing speed, etc. Then determine some specifics you can base your analysis off of. Even a good cavity back, that might have too stiff a shaft, or is too short, or have the wrong lie will cause poor results.

Once you get the basics figured out, then you can try to solve the real problem.

If you start changing equipment too soon, you might be changing it more than once.

Remember, lower lofted irons are harder to hit, hence the larger cavity. If you don't want to see the cavity at all, you might not get the forgiveness you are looking for. Maybe consider a partial set with a thinner top line on the 6-PW and go with some good hybrids for longer irons. If it were me, I would be more concerned with the view of the ball in the air than on the ground... :)