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Practice Clubs?


Rusty2228
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Since blades are supposed to give feedback on mis-hits, would it be wise to practice at the range with the blades, to promote better ball striking, and play with cavity backs?

I realize that distances would be off, and I would finish with shots with my real clubs. But was wondering if this might be a better way to improve contact.
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if the huge difference in feel at impact doesn't bother you... I guess. I'd never do it however - it's like driving V-10 in the warm-up lap and sit down into V-8 for the actual race

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I wouldn't recommend this ever. Golf is hard enough without adding this type of complexity.

Swing = Stacked and On Plane when possible.
In My Bag:
Driver: Ping G5 9° Alidila NV 75g Stiff
3-Wood: Nike SQ 15° Diamana Stiff (Stock)
Irons: NIKE FORGED SPLIT CAVIY (S300)Wedges: Taylormade RAC Fe2O3 (Rust) 52°/56°/60°Putter: Titleist/Cameron Newport 1.5Ball: Looking for a new...

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Please elaborate, I am not sure how it is adding difficulty. To use an analogy, I am envisioning this to a baseball player swinging a weighted bat.

I would only be using them to help make sure I am making solid contact everytime...which I would be more readily able to see using a less forgiving club.
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Distance is one thing that will be different. I know you said that you'll adjust for the difference when you play.

Another is the the feel. It will be way different. You'll never get the same feel on a pure shot with a cavity back club as you will with a forged blade.

Also, unless the clubs are matched so the irons have a similar swing weight your timing could get thrown off when you get onto the course.

I understand what you are trying to accomplish, but to me it just doesn't seem like this would be the way to do it.

One other thing is that I can definitely tell if I've had a mishit on my cavityback irons, I don't need a blade to see that.

All this being said, far be it from me to say what will and won't work for a certain player when they practice. Try it, and if it works for you, great. Take it to the bank.

Swing = Stacked and On Plane when possible.
In My Bag:
Driver: Ping G5 9° Alidila NV 75g Stiff
3-Wood: Nike SQ 15° Diamana Stiff (Stock)
Irons: NIKE FORGED SPLIT CAVIY (S300)Wedges: Taylormade RAC Fe2O3 (Rust) 52°/56°/60°Putter: Titleist/Cameron Newport 1.5Ball: Looking for a new...

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Please elaborate, I am not sure how it is adding difficulty. To use an analogy, I am envisioning this to a baseball player swinging a weighted bat.

It really isn't like using a weighted bat, it would be more like the batter warming up with a thinner bat. I see where you're coming from, but I don't think it would be a good idea for the following reasons:

1. The irons would probably have different sole widths seeing that most blades have very narrow soles with sharper leading edges when compared to the wider-soled soft-edged game improvement irons. This would cause your "gamers" to react differently with the turf and you would lose control and accuracy. 2. They would also most likely have different offsets, this is a bigger deal than the sole widths because you would get used to the barely offset blade and would most likely tend to hit a harsher draw with your "gamers". 3. Game improvement irons look ugly after you grow accustomed to thin blades. I love looking down at my 3 iron and seeing the thin topline, it looks simply badass, If I were to set up to an iron with a fatter topline I feel like a surgeon using a butterknife instead of a scalpel. 4. Its just not a good idea. Get a solid set of irons, get to know them in and out and stick with it. If all things were the same your idea would be a good one, but I can't see this being a good idea in actuality.

Jeff Gladchun

In my bag:
Driver: TaylorMade R7 Quad, 9.5°, Aldila NV
3 Wood: Titleist 904F, 15°, YS-6+ StiffIrons: Titleist 695CB 3-PWWedges: Titleist Vokey 252.08, SM56.10 SM60.08Putter: Odyssey White Steel #5 Center-ShaftBall: TaylorMade TP Black / Titleist ProV1xHome Course: Oakland Hills...

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get some marking spray for your clubs it shows you exactly where you hit the ball on the club you wipe it off when your done.. I wouldnt change to a blade to warm-up or work on your ball striking skills..

Driver: Taylor Made R7 425 9.5° TP Stiff
Fairway: Taylor Made V-Steel #3 w/Fujikura Rombax Stiff
Irons: Taylor Made rac LT 4-PW shaft; Rifle Flighted 6.0
Wedges: Tayor Made rac 52° 56° 60°Utility: Taylor Made Rescue TP #3 (Aldila NV Hybid 85g Stiff)Putter: Scotty...

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What I believe is true about the blades is that they ARE a game improvement club. You are forced to improve your contact point with them to be able to hit them well at all. I wouldn't recommend using them to just practice because I think you might get frustrated.

The advantages of the forged muscle backs are to give the player better workability because the offset is less. This also can cause some problems for people because it can be harder for a person to square the face. These clubs are a totally different feel as other members have stated.

If you were planning on switching totally to muscle back blade then I would totally be for it because they would force you to improve your swing and contact point. Either that or you'd just get frustrated and quit the game, which is something I don't think anyone here wants you to do. Like aqua said, I'd think sticking with a marking tape you could see your contact and work from there.

Best of luck!

In the bag
907 D2 8.5 Matrix Ozik shaft
904F 13 UST Proforce shaft
585-H UST Proforce
4-PW 690.MB Vokey Oil Can 52 56 and 60 Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 1.5 Pro VIHome Course- Somerby Golf Club site of the Nationwide Tour Scholorship Fund Tournamenthttp://www.somerby.com

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what the heck, give it a shot...your a 20 handicap and i off and on battle hitting the ball extremely fat so i know how u feel wanting just to make solid contact...just keep experimenting, i do it all the time and most of the time it doesnt work but who knows, maybe you'll practice with blades and something will click, you just never know

In My Bag:
9.5 degree Mizuno MX-500
15 degree Titliest 904F
Mizuno MP-32 3-PW
Cleveland CG10 Black Pearl 52 degree
Vokey Spin-Milled 56.14
Ping i5 Anser

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hmm...is it just me, or is getting practice clubs a horrible idea? I think it's a better idea just to hit with your regular clubs. This way, you could get a better feel and get used to your actual clubs.
In The Bag:
Driver: 9 degree King Cobra 440 SZ (ETP Penley S Flex)
3 Wood: Taylormade 540 XD (M.A.S R5 Series S Flex)
5 Wood: Mizuno MP .001 (Exsar 60 S Flex)
Irons: Mizuno MP-60 (Dynamic Gold) Gap Wedge: Titleist Vokey SM Oilcan (Dynamic Gold) Sand Wedge: Cleveland Tour Action (Dynam. G) Putter:...
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hmm...is it just me, or is getting practice clubs a horrible idea? I think it's a better idea just to hit with your regular clubs. This way, you could get a better feel and get used to your actual clubs.

The only problem with that is that you're already introducing another variable: I'm pretty sure the range balls don't feel, react, or even look like the Pro V1x I play.

So I'm not sure they really do much. Maybe players who struggle with rhythm want a lighter club for practice (so that their heavier clubs on the course help keep them in a slower, smoother rhythm). Or maybe they want heavier ones. Or true musclebacks on the range when they play cavity-backs. Or whatever... I don't do it, but it's mainly a cost and convenience issue.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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from Golf Magazine's private lessons...

GOLF MAGAZINE's Private Lessons

The infusion of perimeter-weighted clubs into the market has been a boon for all golfers. Miss the sweetspot and these forgiving clubs will still produce a pretty good result. In contrast, wooden woods and blade-style irons are not very forgiving: Mishit the ball even slightly and you'll see a noticeable loss of distance, direction, and trajectory. Because of this difference in performance, many players, even Tour pros, have made the switch to perimeter-weighted woods and irons. If you're among them, be sure you don't get sloppy. Because the quality of contact with perimeter-weighted clubs doesn't have to be quite so precise, there's a tendency to downplay the importance of making solid contact, and that can lead to sloppiness, swinging too hard, poor clubhead path, swaying, and so on. Never forget about the quality of your swing.
To help instill this concern, take a wooden driver and blade 5-iron every time you go to the practice range and spend a few minutes hitting each. This should help keep your swing honed and your focus on making solid, square contact with every club.



Maybe I am smarter than I think I is.
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Note: This thread is 6496 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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