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Offset or no offset driver?


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So Ive got an offset knockoff FT-i driver. While I like it and it keeps "most" of my shots in play, should I be playing a neutral driver head.

I feel like my swing will not improve if I use a club that compensates for my bad driver swing.....

Plus the face is offset and very closed at address, which is a)weird and b) the trajectory is painfully high. I make ball marks in fairways! It carries about 250 260 but then thats it, when it hits the ground it stays there.

You think I should deal with that, or should I get a neutral driver and just practice hitting it in bounds, I think I'd like more carry and more roll after my drive, but Im afraid I'll be putting it in other fairways most of the time...

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

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You'd probably benefit from something that wasn't a knock-off either as well...

I'd try out some of the newer drivers. A strong suggestion for the Ping G10, you'd probably really like that club.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2

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I say get a neutral-face driver and practice with it, but you have to be patient. I spent several months and many lessons to correct my driver slice, which was due to an over-the-top swing (caused by bad swing mechanics).

2011 Goals:
* Improve club-head speed to 90 mph with the driver
* Ensure increased speed does not compromise accuracy
* Prevent overextending on the back-swing (left-arm is bending too much at the top)
* Relax arms initially at address ( too tense)* Play more full rounds (failed from 2010)

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My experience is that those offset face drivers will only slightly compensate for improper swing mechanics.

"You can live to be a hundred if you give up all the things that make you want to live to be a hundred." Woody Allen
My regular pasture.

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I agree. If you want a new driver, go for a Ping G10 with the Graffaloy ProLaunch Red Shaft. They just lowered the price by $50 because of the new G15 coming up so thats a pretty good deal.

The shaft will give your ball a much lower trajectory which will add distance with roll and Ping drivers are really nice.

"Yep. Inside each and every one of us is one true authentic swing. Somethin' we was born with. Somethin' that's ours and ours alone. Somethin' that can't be taught to ya or learned. Somethin' that got to be remembered."

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I bought the R9 this year so that I could change the clubface and eventually get used to having a neutral or even open clubface. Unfortunately I don't like the R9 itself however I can now hit it with a neutral setting.

Given your handicap I'd suggest going with the closed face. Golf is so much more fun when you are hitting fairways. For myself I'm thinking of getting an Adams Insight Tech A4 (expecting a price drop now that the new clubs are out) and using that for the driving range to work on my swing while going back to my Cleveland XLS on the course.
Driver :Adams Speedline 9032LS 10.5*
Woods:Wilson Staff FYbrid 3W
Hybrids:Wilson Staff FYbrid (wood/hybrid gap)
Hybrids:Ben Hogan Edge CFT 3H & 4H
Irons:King Cobra S9 5I-PWSand Wedge:Cleveland CG12-58*Putter:Ping Redwood AnserBall:Nike Karma/Topflite GamerFavourite Gizmo:Club Caddy
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Hey guys, I have the pro launch red on the driver im playing now. The G10 is so expensive, saw it at golfsmith for like 250 bucks....

Ive got about 100 dollars to spend and Ive been looking at the R7 draw, does that have a noticeably closed face?

Thanks!

Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer

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Reading between the lines here it would seem that some posters are confusing an offset driver with a closed, open or square faced driver.
Offset clubs are designed to allow a non perfect swing to have more chance of meeting the ball square as it gets through a fraction later.
Offset has nothing to do with draw, fade or neutral bias.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 

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Well, the offset itself creates a closed face on the driver that I have right now. I have read that most drivers now have a very slightly closed face anyways, something like .5* to 1*...

Im fine with that, but I swear the one im playing now is a solid 3 to 4* closed face.... It kills my confidence when I look at it at address, and the trajectory is wicked high...

Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer

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Try the R7 Draw. There is nothing wrong with it, maybe it will work for you.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2

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Dicks has the SQ sumo 5000 on sale for 129... whatya guys think of that one?

Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer

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Well, the offset itself creates a closed face on the driver that I have right now. I have read that most drivers now have a very slightly closed face anyways, something like .5* to 1*...

Offset has nothing to do with any kind of horizontal flight bias. The only thing it affects is flight height. If you hit a 3-4 degree closed face straight then you obviously need 3-4 degrees closed, as your club is quite a bit open at impact.

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No offset...I recommend using a regular club and focusing on improving your swing.

I slice into the next golf course...but I bought a regular driver to force improvement...and no regrets...it's certainly paying off!
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Dicks has the SQ sumo 5000 on sale for 129... whatya guys think of that one?

I have the Sumo2 5900, have hit the 5000 several times and really like it. Check on Ebay, as well. You may have luck there, especially with used clubs. One other thing to consider is your ball flight. If you are hitting it too high and not getting roll, you could be swinging too steeply and/or "over the top". You could try a lower lofted driver or work on swinging more "inside" the ball. That would definitely bring your ball flight down.

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Dicks has the SQ sumo 5000 on sale for 129... whatya guys think of that one?

I've got the 5000, and I actually bought it used for more than that a little while back. It got bumped in favor of my Dymo Str8-Fit, but I really liked it, and I'll still use it from time to time. I plan on getting it reshafted soon, and I'm sure I'll use it a little more once I get that done. With that said, I'm not sure what your swing speed and tempo is like, but I recommend favoring a little stiffer and maybe a little heavier shaft on this one. I'd jump on that if I were you.

I have the Sumo2 5900, have hit the 5000 several times and really like it. Check on Ebay, as well. You may have luck there, especially with used clubs. One other thing to consider is your ball flight.

I was thinking the same thing when I read this post. Either that, or your weight is hanging back a little bit on the downswing. That's a problem I've been fighting off and on. Focus on a good weight shift, and hit through the ball, and the flight should come down.

 
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You'd probably benefit from something that wasn't a knock-off either as well...

Why would you say this? I don't know the original poster, but given what he is saying, I imagine the club he is playing is probably the Integra Quadratic offset. And contrary to the OP's knowledge it isn't an FTi knock off it actually came out before the FTi.

Integra also is not a clone company, they have unique designs and are a regular in LDA compititions. In fact, most components are not clones, and most would say they are just as playable as the OEM clubs. I think alot of people assume that Nike, Callaway, Ping, etc all make better stuff because they charge more for it. You are paying for the advertising. Component clubs like those sold through Golf Works, Hireko, Golfsmith, and others are all excellent quality clubs that offer an excellent value for those of us without a ton of money to spend.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water

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If you are hitting a 10.5 degree driver with a closed face and you are hitting it high, I fear that it is a swing flaw. In most cases a closed face club causes the loft to be less, but because you are opening the club face 3+ degrees it you are adding a bunch of loft. I recommend you spend your $100 on a few lessons to try to work out your swing flaw and then pick up your regular club.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water

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Why would you say this? I don't know the original poster, but given what he is saying, I imagine the club he is playing is probably the Integra Quadratic offset. And contrary to the OP's knowledge it isn't an FTi knock off it actually came out before the FTi.

Meanwhile, back at the original post in this thread ... I've been building my own clubs for a number of years. Places mentioned above, i.e. Golfsmith, Golfworks, Dynacraft, etc. all have high quality standards. So assuming the clubhead is of inferior quality/construction and therefore forces a poor swing, i.e. push, slice, hook is incorrect . What happnes a lot is people see these heads for less than 100 bucks, buy a shaft someone said was a "good" shaft and toss on a grip. "Whalla, I got an FTi knockoff for 125 bucks!!!" The head is so poorly matched to the shaft, the grip, shaft length, flex and torque are not considered and the club has a poorly designed swingweight/dynamic weight ratio. Tiger Woods couldn't hit a club so poorly constructed. People building (or buying) clubs need to know a lot more about club dynamics, construction, swingweighting, etc. to understand how to put a club together. My guess (having no idea) is that the shaft, head, grip and length of your "knock-off" is a pooly matched set. You can't just buy a club (off the rack or something built) and expect it to work. You need to know something about clubs, your swing, etc. in short: get fitted.
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I make all my own clubs:
Driver: Snake Eyes Python XLD | | 3-Wood: Snake Eyes Python XL Faiway, 15*  | | Snake Eyes HT Iron Set, 3-, 4-Utility, 5-, 6-Hybrid, 7-PW Cavity Back | | Golfsmith G-40 Wedges, 52, 56, 60 | | Distance Master DM-AS2 Putter | |Ball? The last one I found ... that... was YOURS!!
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Note: This thread is 3539 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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