Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5981 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I currently have a TaylorMade Burner driver with a regular shaft as I have a slower swing speed. I use my friend's TaylorMade Burner 3-wood with a stiff shaft, have demoed the R9 with a stiff shaft, and every once in awhile hit a few drives with the Callaway FT-9 with a stiff shaft that my boss owns, and hit all of them fairly well with good feel.

I have gotten much better from last year, and have played a LOT more golf this year, and I know my swing speed has increased, but still nowhere near the "fast" swing speed that I have always thought constituted a stiff shaft.

What I'm getting at is I hit my regular flex stuff good, and from what I have hit so far of the clubs with stiff shafts, hit those well too.

What are your thoughts on stiff vs. regular for someone with a slower swing speed? I'm guessing I should go get fitted to actually see what my swing speed is.

Driver: Burner Draw, Regular Flex Shaft, 10.5*
Irons: i3
Putter: White Hot XG Sabertooth
Ball: e6+ Pro V1x


Posted
Getting fitted is the way to go.

Someone at a local golf shop once told me that Ping says if you hit a five iron farther than 150 yards you should use a stiff shaft...take that as you will, and still go get fitted.

In my stand bag:
9* G10 driver
904F 15* 3 wood
3-PW MP-52 irons
Burner Rescue 19* HybridSpalding 60* lob wedge Tiffany 34"Leupold GX-I rangefinderTitleist Pro V1 ball


Posted
I currently have a TaylorMade Burner driver with a regular shaft as I have a slower swing speed. I use my friend's TaylorMade Burner 3-wood with a stiff shaft, have demoed the R9 with a stiff shaft, and every once in awhile hit a few drives with the Callaway FT-9 with a stiff shaft that my boss owns, and hit all of them fairly well with good feel.

If you have a smooth controlled swing and are improving, you could hit a stiff shaft. A stiff shaft will help with dispersion with lower torque. You might lose some distance, but you'll probably get it back with time. BUT you still have to be careful, if your swing is still developing and your swing is NOT consistent, maybe you should stick with the Reg.

G10 (VS Proto 65 X) or 905S (speeder X) / X Tour 3W (VS Proto S) / Adams Idea Tour Proto 18* (VS Proto S) / S59 Tour, Z-Z65 Cushin (D2) / Mizuno MP-T 51-06 , 56-10, / Miz TP Mills #6 ~or~ Cleveland BRZ #5
 
 
85,84,85,84


Posted
I tried to game a stiff but 70% of shots I couldn't get it very high. I had to put a perfect swing on it to get my desired shot. I'd say go with the regular.

Tour Burner 9.5 Aldila NV65R
MP-57 3-PW R300
588 SW 54
588 LW 60


Posted
I tried to game a stiff but 70% of shots I couldn't get it very high. I had to put a perfect swing on it to get my desired shot. I'd say go with the regular.

The shaft stiffness is a factor in ball flight, BUT there are 1000's of stiff shafts that produce different launch angles, torques, and every stiff shaft is different. It could have been many factors that produced a low ball flight.

G10 (VS Proto 65 X) or 905S (speeder X) / X Tour 3W (VS Proto S) / Adams Idea Tour Proto 18* (VS Proto S) / S59 Tour, Z-Z65 Cushin (D2) / Mizuno MP-T 51-06 , 56-10, / Miz TP Mills #6 ~or~ Cleveland BRZ #5
 
 
85,84,85,84


Posted
get fitted, see what works for you with ss launch etc

R9
Burner 3 wood
Burner #3 hybid
R7 4-P
Vokey Spin Mill 54 58 Studio Select Midslant Newport


Posted
Getting fitted is the first thing you should do. Wondering though why you would want to move to stiff shafts if you hit regular shaft clubs good. My swing speed averages 87-89 with a nice smooth tempo and I hit all regular shafted clubs. Works well for my game and I don't give it a second thought about switching to stiff shafts. I have several rounds under par this year so you don't have to have stiff shafts to play well.

:cobra: Amp Driver 10.5*(R)
:tmade: Burner 3W 15*(R)
:tmade: Burner 2.0 Rescue 3-4
:titleist: 714 AP1 Irons 5-pw, gw(Steel XP95 R300)
:callaway: MD3 Wedges 56, 60
:nickent:Omen Long Putter(un-anchored)


Posted
Getting fitted is the way to go.

are you serious?? ive never heard this. i hit my 8 iron 150 does that mean i need extra stiff shafts??

i think not. i play reg. flex shafts in all my clubs except the fairway woods. and i probably need to reshaft it anyway.... i try to swing smooth... and look cool while i do it...

RBZ stage 2 driver & 3 wood

Original AP1 4-GW

Vokey 54.10 & 58.04

Scotty Newport 2


Posted
Someone at a local golf shop once told me that Ping says if you hit a five iron farther than 150 yards you should use a stiff shaft...take that as you will, and still go get fitted.

I've heard 7-iron at 150 as a general rule; sometimes, I've heard this as 160. I've never heard 5-iron at 150: 3 years ago, I could hit my 5-iron 145, and I know stiff flex would have been wrong for me then!

Then again, I've got a slow swing speed (I think: 5-iron ~ 160), use R-flex, and my misses tend to be to the left with just about every club.

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I believe flex depends more on tempo than swing speed. If you have a shorter backswing with a quick transition to the downswing, you may need a stiffer shaft than someone who has a longer, more smooth swing that is faster.
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
[ QUOTE=ToddziLLa;360473]

What are your thoughts on stiff vs. regular for someone with a slower swing speed? I'm guessing I should go get fitted to actually see what my swing speed is.[/ QUOTE]

TZ,

Back in the 1970s, this was conventional wisdom for shaft flex this: If you're on the line between regular and stiff, have regular in woods for distance, and stiff in irons for control.

Jack Nicklaus wrote about the flex plan of Bob Kepler, his Ohio State golf coach. Kepler had whippy shafts in woods and long irons, regular in medium irons, and stiff in short irons and wedges.

Lately I have been hearing curious things about shaft flex. The golf pro where I play thinks the opposite of Jack's coach. This pro is about 60 years, but slender and very fit. He's about 5-foot-7 and 150 pounds. He has regular shafts on all his clubs, except for stiff shafts on driver, 3-wood, and 3 iron.

He has a smooth swing with lots of acceleration at impact, and says he can bend stiff shafts fine on the longer clubs - and, it helps him with accuracy.

His idea would mesh with the recent arrival of Wedge Flex. These shafts are between R and S for your wedges, especially if you mainly use them for partial shots close in.

Final advice - Like you and others have said, go get fitted. Try out Driver A, B and C in both regular and stiff shafts. A computerized fitting will give you a printout comparing the clubs on clubhead speed, ball speed, launch angle, overall effectiveness and a couple of other statistics I have no idea what they mean.

Besides helping you select a driver, it's a good seminar on how golf clubs actually work - when we swing them properly.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Like the guy above me said and pretty much what is always the answer to these types of questions. Go get fitted and demo everything, from X to A flex so you can actually see the difference in raw data (spin launch etc) . Don't waste your time asking something that none of us can give you an educated answer to.

In my all black Four 5:
909 D2 9.5 Harrison Saga 60 X
909 F2 13.5 Harrison Saga 70 X
909 H 19 Stock VooDoo S
AP2 710 3-PW Project X 6.5 Spin Milled C-C 54 & 58 California Del Mar Penta SYNR-G 1600 TEHomecourse(s): Crandon GC 76.2/145/7301


Posted
Someone at a local golf shop once told me that Ping says if you hit a five iron farther than 150 yards you should use a stiff shaft...take that as you will, and still go get fitted.

No, there's no way that can be right. I hit my 7 iron 150 yds and I use regular flexed shafts in all my clubs.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2


Posted
Generally all shafts have different flexes, not all stiff are all stiff.

but generally what would happen if you are regular shaft user switching to stiff shaft, is change in launch angle and carry. It might also alter your directions too depending on how you hit the ball. you better get fitted at your local golf shop.
In my Warbird Hot Stand Bag:

Driver: R9 420cc 9.5° stiff
3 Wood: Burner 07 Fairway #3 Stiff
5 Wood: Burner 07 Fairway #5 Stiff3 Hybrid: Burner 08 Rescue #3 StiffIrons: MX-25 4-G Project X 5.5SW: CG12 STD bounce 56° Black PearlLW: CG12 STD bounce 60° Black PearlPutter: California...

Posted
I currently have a TaylorMade Burner driver with a regular shaft as I have a slower swing speed. I use my friend's TaylorMade Burner 3-wood with a stiff shaft, have demoed the R9 with a stiff shaft, and every once in awhile hit a few drives with the Callaway FT-9 with a stiff shaft that my boss owns, and hit all of them fairly well with good feel.

The best thing to do, IMO is go get on a launch monitor with a knowledgable tech and see what numbers you come up with. That will direct you toward a good driver loft and shaft (reg vs stiff and which "kick" will work best for you).

A couple of things tho. 1 companies stiff is another companies reg flex. There is no consistancy between companies. Also if its a OEM that put in the shaft, say for instance a Ping driver that has a V2 shaft, the OEM shaft will be a little more flexable than then the same after market shaft. The reason for this is b/c it will work for a wider amount of ppl compared to the after market shaft. A couple of things about the launch monitor. 1st you will get more accurate information if you have a consistent swing. And not all sales ppl know what they are doing on the launch monitor, thats why I said "a knowledgable tech". When done correctly it will give you some very good information. Pay attention to club head speed, launch angle and ball rpm's. Don't pay attention to caluclated ball flight or distance, do that on the range.

Note: This thread is 5981 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟩🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Should have got it in two, but I have music on my brain.
    • Wordle 1,668 2/6* 🟨🟨🟩⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.