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My first weird shopping experience and some questions


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Dear all,

Would keep my story short …

I went shopping today, targeting to buy a set of iron to begin my serious golf learning. My experience is one time driving range, so I pretty much rely on the professionalism of the salesperson to recommend the club. Having said that, I did several days of research on the internet, including to this forum. After reading the “Dream set” thread below, I intended to go for Titlelist AP1/AP2 or Mizuno MP52/58/62/68. What I know is that many of you is that they are very good irons but to be frank, I do not know why it is good.
http://thesandtrap.com/forum/threads...eam-Set/page31

(1)I went to a shop, which sells both used and new club. I lean to buy used ones because of budget constraint. I told the salesperson what I was looking for. STRANGE enough , he immediately refused to sell me a used set of MP62. He said it is not forgiving enough to let me enjoy golf. He then handed me a set of AP1 (used) but I found that I dislike the appearance of it. As a pure beginner, I did not try the swing because I won’t be able to feel the difference anyway. While I asked him again regarding the MP62, he refused to tell me the price. I then end up leaving empty hand. Actually, I got his point on forgiveness. But my belief is that if I am going to learn this sports seriously, I will buy some very good tools. There is no point to buy some shit to destroy the interest. Moreover, I want a set that I can use for many many years such that I can eliminate the cost of exchange a new set when I find the entry level one not good enough. What do you think? Do you think he is too stubborn? Or do I overestimate myself to be able to handle the MP series?

(2) I found some used MP irons on ebay. How comes the price is much cheaper in ebay than in the shops in Singapore? Are there fake MP’s?

(3) I know the MP58 is the newer version of MP52, likewise for MP68. If I really like the MP series, which among the 4 models I should target for? What are the difference? I tried looking up the info from mizuno website but seems they are really similar, can you share the key difference?

Appreciate you help.

finding my lifelong sportssss

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1. If you are an absolute beginner you would be better served to buy a reasonably priced set of used irons which fit your body (length, lie), learn the mechanics of the swing and get fitted for another set of clubs in a year or two. There is no single 'best' set of golf clubs and the chance of you picking right the first time are a bit slim. As long as you have a set of irons that fits you well don't worry about brand or model. Good ballstriking is all about your swing, not your clubs.

2. Their are counterfeit versions of most popular clubs available. Also, prices from golf shops in Singapore might be higher than what might be available on the internet.

3. One is newer, more shiney, and more expensive. (/cynisism)
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Dear all,

1. I understand your desire to buy a set that you can learn on and not have to replace but the MP-62 is a bit of a stretch for a complete beginner. While they are not complete blades, MP-62's are for players with lower h'caps. You're better off buying a reasonable priced set and learning how to golf before you dive in and buy a players club. I guarantee, if and when you get better, you will want to replace your irons after a couple years or maybe more. Get a reasonably priced game improvement iron (lots of Ping irons on sale...such as the G5 for like $300 last time i saw) and learn to play the game and enjoy the game before you dive into something that you can't hit for the life of you.

2. Yes there aer a lot of fake clubs especially from ppopular brands like Mizuno and Titleist. I would avoid it unless you really do some research into the sellers' history. 3. fr0sty is correct on this. you're not going to notice the difference from the older ones and the newer ones. Like I said in #1, theres no point in you buying a nice set of players irons yet. Buy a reasonably cheap set to start off and learn to hit the ball before you dive in and spend a lot of money on clubs that aren't fit for you.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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I love the MP series as much as the next guy, but the 62's might be a bit much. I would look for the 52's or try the MX line. The MX 200 and 300 are likely both right up your alley. You shouldn't give up on the Titleist AP 2's or AP 1's either.

In my bag:

Driver: Titleist TSi3 | 15º 3-Wood: Ping G410 | 17º 2-Hybrid: Ping G410 | 19º 3-Iron: TaylorMade GAPR Lo |4-PW Irons: Nike VR Pro Combo | 54º SW, 60º LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 | Putter: Odyssey Toulon Las Vegas H7

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1. I understand your desire to buy a set that you can learn on and not have to replace but the MP-62 is a bit of a stretch for a complete beginner. While they are not complete blades, MP-62's are for players with lower h'caps. You're better off buying a reasonable priced set and learning how to golf before you dive in and buy a players club. I guarantee, if and when you get better, you will want to replace your irons after a couple years or maybe more. Get a reasonably priced game improvement iron (lots of Ping irons on sale...such as the G10 for like $300 last time i saw) and learn to play the game and enjoy the game before you dive into something that you can't hit for the life of you.

Where on earth did you see a new set of G10's for $300? You can get a brand new set of G5's for $400.

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i meant the G5. I just edited it :)

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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thanks all for the reply...

I am just wondering whether the differnece between MP68 and 58 are soooo big.

And 68 is really sooo hard to hard compared to even AP1 and AP2?

finding my lifelong sportssss

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Dear all,

How long was the long version? Just kidding - although I'm still wondering what part Mike Weir plays in all this - was he the guy refusing to sell you the MP-62s?

Buy what you want, but basically the more austere looking irons, especially if they're thinner with smaller heads, are generally seen as harder to use for a beginner, but are more likely to last a lifetime. The more badges and "sh**" glued/welded on the back, the more likely you'll have a dated POS in 5 years.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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thanks all, really start to gain more light here.

Golf is difficult, even for the purchasing decision. E.g. how can I find such information from anywhere? If I did not ask in this thread, where can I find out MP 68 wil never be able to handled by me? I am not lazy to do my own research, but I really find no better place than forum.

guys, appreciate if you can teach me more. I really like by impression mizuno, especially for the MP series, and maybe the MX as well. What will be your suggestion? I want something can be handled by beggering (actually i am quite althetic) and can last for say 5 years in my golf life. Difficulty is when I was searching for info on the MP58, i found 57, 32 .... ...

Thanks so much for your time...

finding my lifelong sportssss

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thanks all, really start to gain more light here.

I'm sensing some potential language issues, so bear with me. For thoughts on iron selection also check out other golf forums, but beware of people with an agenda. For every person that tells you MP-68s are not for you, there will be another telling you that you'll grow into them.

Personally, I'd get whatever has the most classic setup with respect to lofts and clubhead size, whether or not it was an MX or an MP. There are some relatively important differences between muscleback blades and perimeter weighted irons. You'll likely be able to hit the ball a bit higher with perimeter weighted irons and the distance dispersion will be a little tighter with them. As you get more consistent, these may be the right irons, or you may find you want to be a little bit more in control of your shot trajectory and you may want to hit a wider range of distance with each club - that may or not be something that will interest you down the road.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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thanks all for the reply...

Yes the MP-68 is very different from Ap1 and Ap2. The MP-68 is a true player's blade while the AP1 is quite forgiving for beginners. Even the AP2's are much more forgiving than the MP-68. There is a reason why most players even with low h'cap don't opt for a true blade like the MP68. A beginner as yourself will have a very dificult time striking the ball well.

Even the MP-58 will be much more forgiving than the 68. The mp58 is still a player's iron but is much more forgiving.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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That isn't true.

I didn't say it was carved in stone, but it does seem to be the standard OEM business plan.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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I didn't say it was carved in stone, but it does seem to be the standard OEM business plan.

I agree to a certain point. I'm not a big fan of irons with all kinds of different colored parts glued and welded to it.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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I didn't say it was carved in stone, but it does seem to be the standard OEM business plan.

Their business plan is to make money. Ping can slap a G20 tag on the G15's tomorrow without changing a thing and they will sell like hot cakes because people think they are new and better. When in reality, there is a minute difference between the G5's of 2005 and the G15's of 2010. See Callaway's X series. They are all practically the same from the 12/14's. Doesn't make theM an obsolete POS.

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Their business plan is to make money. Ping can slap a G20 tag on the G15's tomorrow without changing a thing and they will sell like hot cakes because people think they are new and better. When in reality, there is a minute difference between the G5's of 2005 and the G15's of 2010. See Callaway's X series. They are all practically the same from the 12/14's. Doesn't make the and obsolete POS.

I don't think this detour is helping the OP (like that ever stops us - LOL), but it's the manufacturers that tell us the the previous versions are out of date, obsolete, and one can ascertain the POS part. Have you read the print ads for TM Burner or Cobra S2 irons? Whatever TM or Cobra you had before that should basically be flattened and melted down.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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I don't think this detour is helping the OP (like that ever stops us - LOL), but it's the manufacturers that tell us the the previous versions are out of date, obsolete, and one can ascertain the POS part. Have you read the print ads for TM Burner or Cobra S2 irons? Whatever TM or Cobra you had before that should basically be flattened and melted down.

In this case it wasn't the manu that was telling him his club would be outdated. You stated such as a fact.

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