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My first weird shopping experience and some questions


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Consider 3 irons from Titleist or Mizuno.

You sure do see a lot of DCI's out there. When I was struggling with my Macgregor MB's last year, I wished I still had my DCI's.

Just because an iron is more sought after than another, it doesn't mean the other is obsolete. For Callaway and Ping the new offerings have more garish decals, badging, and color scheme's than the old ones. Does that make the X-24's obsolete compared to the x-20? Just because a clubs "life cycle" ends, doesn't make it obsolete. Most people on these types of boards love to have the latest and greatest in thier bags because they are enthusiasts. They 1996 DCI's will work just as good as their 2010 ap1's.
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thanks a lot, thwak/ very useful link.

I'm no guru, but my understanding is it's subjective, as the manufacturers define the club for their target market, while the MPR is an independant study. Certainly Titleist would never define their club as "super game improvement" !!!

There are basically 2 types of irons - game improvement (normally cavity backs and larger clubs) and player clubs (smaller cavity and blades). Considering you are starting you should be looking in the game improvement category, otherwise you will have difficulty improving at the beginning and lose interest. Golf is hard...at first!

A) You need to hit alot of different clubs.
B) Whatever works for you.
C) It's the indian, not the arrow.
D) A 5 wood, 19* hybrid or a lob wedge.

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OP, take this with a grain of salt, because I am not a scratch golfer nor do I know very much about the clubs you are looking at.

This situation reminds me of someone who is new to driving or motorcycling. You would not want to just right on a 1000cc sport bike or hop behind the wheel of a Corvette. These machine will do everything you ask them to if you know HOW to ask them. They will also bite you quick if you are not speaking the same language and tell them to do something stupid.

I would look into something like a game improvement iron set pre owned and put in some serious play/practice time. Once you are comfortable with your ball striking, then look to get something with a more traditional look and sell your game improvement irons to someone else looking to take up the game!

Good luck either way!

ETA: I went with my Zings because of what I had read about them online. I was able to get a used set and have been enjoying them very much!

Driver G2
Hybrid 22 degree
Irons Zing
Wedge 60.07 RAC Chrome
Putter Karsten Zing

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You sure do see a lot of DCI's out there. When I was struggling with my Macgregor MB's last year, I wished I still had my DCI's.

Obsolete in the sense that the purchaser will feel goaded into buying a newer version of the same sh** w/ new decals.

The Titleist DCI is one of the best iron designs in the history of the game - wish I had a set. I picked up a set of Lynx Parallax irons for my brother for $2.99 at Value Village (the set was missing the 3 and 5 iron - he didn't care about the missing irons or the fact they might be obsolete). I hit them at the range and they totally blew me away - if they didn't throw the ball so high, I'd have kept them for myself. My point is that the OP was already not crazy about looks of the current Titleist AP1 and hinted the same for some of the Mizuno offerings. Would he in time grow to love one of their SGI iron sets? Possibly, but since the OP is including aesthetics in his decision, then less is quite often more.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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If you haven't looked at the Titleist and Mizuno websites have a look at who they market their irons to. You know your level, see what clubs they recommend.

http://golf.mizunoeurope.com/irons/ (click the HCP tab)

http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/default.asp

A) You need to hit alot of different clubs.
B) Whatever works for you.
C) It's the indian, not the arrow.
D) A 5 wood, 19* hybrid or a lob wedge.

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They 1996 DCI's will work just as good as their 2010 ap1's.

Really? Is that why the majority of pros switch to the latest company offering? It's not because of their contracts but because they see performance gains in using the newer model. How many Titleist staff members still play the ZM or ZB? I can guarantee that the majority switched to the 710 CB or MB. Of all the Titleist staffers, one of the few I can think of who still plays old irons is Steve Stricker. Most of the others have upgraded to the latest Titleist offerings.

A reason why you see a lot of old irons is that some golfers don't see enough of a performance gain to shell out 800$ or because they have convinced themselves that the latest clubs have the same technology. The truth is that the majority of golfers does not have enough disposable income to upgrade to the latest equipment. Does this mean that I will upgrade to the next AP2s when they come out just because I have the money to purchase the newer clubs? Until I feel that I can't do what I want with these they'll stay in the bag. Now going back to the OP's post, as many have suggested the least forgiving end of the spectrum of MP clubs would be a lot of club for a beginner. Trying the MX 300 or MP 52s would be good if you're looking for a forgiving "players" iron, however I wouldn't give up on the Titleists.
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Last bit of advice - the best place to start when looking for new clubs is the latest (and previous years for that matter) Golf Digest HOT LIST.

Super Game Improvement
http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...list_sgi_irons

Game Improvement
http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...?currentPage=1

Players
http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip..._players_irons

A) You need to hit alot of different clubs.
B) Whatever works for you.
C) It's the indian, not the arrow.
D) A 5 wood, 19* hybrid or a lob wedge.

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Really? Is that why the majority of pros switch to the latest company offering? It's not because of their contracts but because they see performance gains in using the newer model. How many Titleist staff members still play the ZM or ZB? I can guarantee that the majority switched to the 710 CB or MB. Of all the Titleist staffers, one of the few I can think of who still plays old irons is Steve Stricker. Most of the others have upgraded to the latest Titleist offerings.

For the general public, 99% of golfers, whether hitting DCI's or AP2's won't make a difference. For pro's there may be technological advancements that can enable them to control and shape their shots but for the most part, give me my old set of TZoid Pro II's in my hands and I'll play just as well.

and just to clarify, it IS heavily due to their endorsement contract. Brands want to sell their latest and greatest. What better way to market it then to get them in the hands of a pro? With that said, the clubs pro use aren't the same as the ones they sell. They are heavily customized to fit the exact needs of the player. How much technological advancements do you think there can be with blades...? Classic blades (which is what most pro's play) haven't drastically changed in decades.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco

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Given the language barriers and his new intro the golf I think the "debate" going on in this thread may be diluting any information the OP needs.

benchan1, you should try to find a set of Game Improvement irons that suit your eye, you will learn the game much faster.
In my bag

Superstrong 12*
- Firepower Hyper Ti 15*
- Launcher 18* Hybrid - 21* Hybrid - S2 Max 5i - SW - MP T-Series 47* - 60* LW - White Hot XG #1
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Understandable. I'm personally not a fan of the AP1/AP2 look either but they are some of the best irons on the market right now.

+1 on the AP1

Listen, there are many, many options out there for you. I would recommend not to settle on one or two brands without really understanding the options you have. AP1 you didn't like, fine, look at big berthas, taylormade has great deals on last year's sets... Stay away from "Players" clubs, as they will only frustrate you alot, but if you think that you will be disciplined enough to practice alot to improve you mechanics rapidly, then they may not be too bad. If you wan to listen to someone...spend a little money in getting fitted by a teaching pro and not the dumbass sales folks, findout what you need and what will give your best results and start from there. There are many types (grades) of clubs: classic >> conventional >> game improvement >> super game improvement these farther right in that sequence, the easier they are to hit for a beginner. When I started playing I got a set of used Titleist AP1 with graphite shafts (reg) for $200. I got them from a relative that had used them from 6 months..they were (and are) in great shape. When was shopping around for the other clubs (driver, 3w, 3h, wedges,putter) the salesman at the Golf Galaxy told me that those clubs were too much for me...that it would take me a few years to really be able to play them. I tried to convince me to trade them in for something more suited for me. I refused to think he was right, and kept them....My first few round scores were 146, 123, 113. 106, 101, 105 which proves that I could handle the clubs just fine. So my advice...shop around try a few clubs and buy what you like and feel most comfortable with, independent of what the salesman is pushing on you...
It's the indian, not the arrow! But it sure is nice to have good arrows!!!!!

Driver : r7 Limited 9.5* Matrix Ozik X-Con 5.5 (Reg) | Fairway: 906F4 15.5* (Reg) | Hybrids: DWS Baffler 3/R 20* (Reg) & Baffler Rail H 4-H 22* (Reg) | Irons: AP1 5-G (Reg) | Wedges: SW - SM56-10 & LW - SM60-04 | Putter:.....
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Dear all,

Yes, you overestimate yourself. One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is to overestimate their skills. Golf looks easy, but it's not. You can hit a club great in a shop's simulator and think it's the one for you, but the real test comes on the back 9, when you're hot, tired, and frustrated. See how much you like the super hard to hit clubs then.

One of the biggest reasons people give up golf is that it's too hard, and here you are wanting to buy irons that force you to hit them right on the center. I, like many people here, learned to play the game on blades, and it was a painful experience. I spent years off during my childhood and early 20s. When I was 24, I finally tried cavity back clubs, and I've been playing nearly daily since then. On the back 9, when you're running low on energy, when you're frustrated, they give you some room for error. I even bagged a hybrid 3 iron for a while. Forgiveness is a great thing to have. Always remember that clubs, like women, look great under the hot lights of the store, and when you're not thinking clearly. The next morning, when you wake up and face reality, it's not so easy to swallow that you've now got a club that you just cannot hit with any consistency.
(3) I know the MP58 is the newer version of MP52, likewise for MP68. If I really like the MP series, which among the 4 models I should target for? What are the difference? I tried looking up the info from mizuno website but seems they are really similar, can you share the key difference? Appreciate you help.

MP = Mizuno Professional. They are not for you. Wait till you've played for at least a few months at least, or maybe have something around a 20 handicap. For now, check out offerings by Callaway, Ping, TaylorMade, Adams, and other manufacturers. Find a club that's forgiving, but that you like the look of.

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He would be right in warning you, but he was dead wrong on not even giving you a price. Buy what you feel comfortable with.

"I play in the low 80's. If it is an hotter than that, I don't play"

Joe E. Lewis

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My 2 cents worth:

The salesman crossed the line from being helpful to being a jerk. It is his job to advise you, not to dictate to you. Bottom line: it's your life, your money, and you're the one that has to live the the consequences. The final decision (right or wrong) is yours, not his.

What club to buy? When I first started (which wasn't that long ago) I went to Goodwill and mixed-and-matched a set from what they had. It was a full set of irons, wedges, and a putter, but they weren't all the same (different brands, but mostly Wilsons, and different types--from forged muscle-backs to cavity backs; even got a 1 & 2 iron). $1.25 per club. Also bought a bagthere ($8). That's really enough to get you started playing. You'll get a feel for what type of club you like and don't like to play. The in a few months (with a little experience under your belt) you can pop for a more expensive & make an intelligent decision.

Remember, golf clubs (like air conditioners) go on sale in the fall. You'll get a better deal if you can wait till the fall to purchase.

Instight XTD A30S Driver 10.5° ($69 new ebay)
Instight XTD A3OS Fairway Wood 15° ($45 new ebay)
Fybrid 19.5° ($35 new ebay)
Ci7 4-GW ($175 new Rock Bottom Golf via ebay)
53° & 58° 8620 DD wedges ($75 each new PGA Superstore) C2-DF ($35 new Rock Bottom Golf) Riley TT stand bag ($7 n...

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My 2 cents worth:

The salesman crossed the line from being helpful to being a jerk. It is his job to advise you, not to dictate to you. Bottom line: it's your life, your money, and you're the one that has to live the the consequences. The final decision (right or wrong) is yours, not his.

What club to buy? When I first started (which wasn't that long ago) I went to Goodwill and mixed-and-matched a set from what they had. It was a full set of irons, wedges, and a putter, but they weren't all the same (different brands, but mostly Wilsons, and different types--from forged muscle-backs to cavity backs; even got a 1 & 2 iron). $1.25 per club. Also bought a bagthere ($8). That's really enough to get you started playing. You'll get a feel for what type of club you like and don't like to play. The in a few months (with a little experience under your belt) you can pop for a more expensive & make an intelligent decision.

Remember, golf clubs (like air conditioners) go on sale in the fall. You'll get a better deal if you can wait till the fall to purchase.

Instight XTD A30S Driver 10.5° ($69 new ebay)
Instight XTD A3OS Fairway Wood 15° ($45 new ebay)
Fybrid 19.5° ($35 new ebay)
Ci7 4-GW ($175 new Rock Bottom Golf via ebay)
53° & 58° 8620 DD wedges ($75 each new PGA Superstore) C2-DF ($35 new Rock Bottom Golf) Riley TT stand bag ($7 n...

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I'm no guru, but my understanding is it's subjective, as the manufacturers define the club for their target market, while the MPR is an independant study. Certainly Titleist would never define their club as "super game improvement" !!!

got it, thanks thwak

finding my lifelong sportssss

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I'm no guru, but my understanding is it's subjective, as the manufacturers define the club for their target market, while the MPR is an independant study. Certainly Titleist would never define their club as "super game improvement" !!!

MPF is completely objective, so it's a better number. It's also highly accurate. Maltby's numbers seem to almost always reflect reality in my experience, as they're based solely on science, not marketing.

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Given the language barriers and his new intro the golf I think the "debate" going on in this thread may be diluting any information the OP needs.

Yes, that is what i am doing now.

No, the debate is very constructive one. I can understand most of the argument. Now I am thinking whether I should but the newer models (MX1000 or MP52) of the older ones (T Zoid?) as it will make no difference to me. A second thought is i am going to play golf for a long time, buying a newer model (used clubs) with more technology advance and better condition will serve me a longer period

finding my lifelong sportssss

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