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How do you approach shots that are inside 100 yards?

It's all about course management for me. I try not to leave myself those half shots if possible. I'm not particularly long with my irons and wedges, so my 56° SW is about a 60 - 65 yard club. I will usually try to play for a full shot with that or with my GW (80 - 85 yards). That means hitting less than a driver on some par 4 holes, and planning for a deliberate layup on many par 5 holes. If I can get to within 20 yards of the green then I will go for it, otherwise I'll lay up. I find that I improve my scoring chances that way.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

What is exactly your problem with the short shot from 50 - 60 yards out?
1) do you hit the short shots fat?
2) are you making solid contact?
3) is the distance control the problem?
4) how often do you practice this shot?
5) how many times can you get up and down from around the green and within 100 yards?

It took me a long time to hit a partial wedge approach shot without hitting it fat and occasionally I still hit it fat. but I have discovered that my backswing and take away was incorrect. Now, I can hit this shot with confidence.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


What is exactly your problem with the short shot from 50 - 60 yards out?

I have a huge problem hitting these shots fat. I've started using my PW with small 3/4 swings instead of using my SW until I am close enough to chip. What did you work on to slow down the frequency of fat shots in these shorter pitch shots.

LIVING A DREAM
BOWLING GREEN STATE UNIVERSITY #56


Can you elaborate the last sentence? When to use 1/2 PW, 3/4 SW and a full LW?

A 1/2 PW will go lower and run out more so I guess he uses it if he's into the wind or has a lot of green to work with.

Most of what James_Black said is right but I also add some more for determining what wedge to hit. Here is a example: My GPS is telling me I have 86 to the middle, 98 to the back and 69 to the front of the green. The pin is in the front. I figure about 75 yards to the pin. Now my 53* with a 1/2 swing, my 56* with a 3/4 swing and my 60* with a full swing will all get me there. I would hit my 3/4 56* and here is why. If I were to hit my 1/2 53*, I could possible catch it better than I wanted and possible fly the green. Don't want that. If I hit my full 60*, I might not get it all and come up short. My full 56* is about 90 yards so I'm safe from flying the green, (unless I skull it) and my 1/2 is about 65 yards so I probably ends up just on the green if I don't get enough. I know that all sounds complicated, but once you start using it, it will really become second nature to you. I've been using this system for about 4 years now.
The only thing a golfer needs is more daylight. -Ben Hogan

 

I play shots within 100 yards totally by feel - like shooting a basketball or tossing a wad of paper into the trash. Ironically, getting to a point where you just feel distance, takes even more practice on the range. At some point you have to work on 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 shots, but I like to push that out of my brain on the course. Last time at the range I hit about 150 balls (got a range pass) and most of them were to either the 120 yard flag or the 80 yard flag. I was working on trajectory, playing the wind, and trying to hole every shot.

I've started trying to hole more short irons on the course this year, and even though there's still no guarantee the ball will end up on the green, I've already had more birdies in 2010 than the last 3 seasons combined.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


This thread got me thinking and I went to the range hitting balls with my 3 wedges to find what distances I hit certain clubs with different amounts of backswing. I always find myself trying to guess the length with half and 3/4 shots. I don't know why I didn't do this before. Making a cheat sheet just makes sense (which I'm sure I'll get into memory). That way there's no guessing and you can commit to shots.

As a side note: There's a little net about 50-60 yds out I always try to hit in and I made it in for the first time yesterday.

Now, I just need to sort out something similar for my putter.


I carry lots of wedges so I have options. I have worked hard on my wedges over the years. I use club selection, stance, and length of backswing to control distance. I never move the ball up in the stance with a wedge. I want that to be always consistant but if I am hitting a 46 yard wedge where I want it to land 44 yards, I then narrow my stance, open up a bit, and take a short back and try to nip my 64 with a very shallow divot.

For me it is all about visualizing the shot and what kind of lie. A bad lie 65 yard shot is very different from a perfect lie shot of the same yardage. I try to stay very compact with my wedges which helps me control the distance and where my divot is.

Brian


Most of what James_Black said is right but I also add some more for determining what wedge to hit. Here is a example: My GPS is telling me I have 86 to the middle, 98 to the back and 69 to the front of the green. The pin is in the front. I figure about 75 yards to the pin. Now my 53* with a 1/2 swing, my 56* with a 3/4 swing and my 60* with a full swing will all get me there. I would hit my 3/4 56* and here is why. If I were to hit my 1/2 53*, I could possible catch it better than I wanted and possible fly the green. Don't want that. If I hit my full 60*, I might not get it all and come up short. My full 56* is about 90 yards so I'm safe from flying the green, (unless I skull it) and my 1/2 is about 65 yards so I probably ends up just on the green if I don't get enough. I know that all sounds complicated, but once you start using it, it will really become second nature to you. I've been using this system for about 4 years now.

Very good explanation.

How about the lies? How does it affect the club choice?

My Clubs
Driver - Nike SUMO 13* R flex
Wood - Cobra 5 wood 18* R flex
3-PW hybrids/irons - Mizuno MX-950 R flex
Wedge - Mizuno MX-950 51* Wedge - Cleveland CG14 56* 14*Putter - RifeBall - Taylormade TP LDP RED


I play shots within 100 yards totally by feel - like shooting a basketball or tossing a wad of paper into the trash. Ironically, getting to a point where you just feel distance, takes even more practice on the range. At some point you have to work on 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 shots, but I like to push that out of my brain on the course.

I am right there with Sean...I go by feel. Just from a strategy standpoint I have my pet distances. If laying up on a par 5 I try to be really close (within 25 yards) or about 90-100. If I am 50 yards it is usually by accident, but I will hit either the 54 or the 60 depending on what kind of shot I want to hit. I don't think about the length of swing, I just try to get a mental image in my head and concentrate on accelerating through the ball. On the range I will spend time hitting to different targets with all three wedges 48-54-60 and get a little more mechanical in my thinking to see the relationships between the three clubs. Lately, I have been practicing a lot of knock-down 48s from about 110-115 which is a tweener distance for me (105 for the 54, 125 for 48) and it has paid off the last couple of rounds.

Cobra LTDx 10.5* | Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4-23* | T100 5-P | Vokey SM7 50/8* F, 54/10* S, SM8 58/10* S | Odyssey 2 Ball Blade | Vice Pro Plus  


For me it was a mind barrier that kept me from hitting those kind of shots. I would hesitate at the last second fearing a shot over and past the green. The key I found was follow through. I'd change my swing, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, open the face or square it out, either way as long as I finish my follow through properly it's usually great contact and the ball where I want it... well at least close, as I would prefer it to get in the darn hole.

The best way to play 100 yards and in for me is to just swing smooth and swing normally. If I try to worry about the distance too much and don't trust myself it is for sure going to be bladed, shanked, etc.

In my Tour Sasquatch Stand Bag

Driver: 10.5* R9 460
Fairway Wood: Dymo2 3 Wood
Hybrid: SUMO 21* 3 HybridIrons: Pro Combo Forged Irons 4-PW Gap Wedge 52* Vokey Sand Wedge: iWedge 56* Lob Wedge: MX-950 60*Putter: Studio Select Fastback No. 1 35"


I used to struggle with the < 100 yard shots (along with my chipping). One shot I would hit great, the next would be hit thin or fat and possibly cause some huge numbers. Then, I did two things to help my chipping: went to a reverse overlap grip (i.e. typical putting grip) and lined up the ball in a "shank" position (close to the hosel). I did this because I discovered I was catching the ball out towards the toe leading to inconsistency. It was a little disconcerting at first, but I've yet to shank one . Anyways, I just adapted that same technique to my < 100 yard shots, but made it a 1/2 to 3/4 swing with some wrist action as well (usually using my gap wedge). I strike the ball fairly solid almost every time. Also, the use of the "long" chipping motion with the wrist action has made distance control so much easier as the ball flies lower than normal with more spin -- it's become almost a "feel" shot. I'm certainly getting a lot more of these within 10-15 feet, and more importantly, just getting them on the green and avoiding the big numbers.

Anyways, it's not something I would necessarily recommend, but it's always fun to experiment.

It took me a long time for me to figure out why I hit fat shots, with trial and error, I discovered this:

1) your goal is to make consistent solid contact with any club each time consistently.
2) an indicator of making solid contact is feel and also the click sound the ball makes coming off the club face.
3) the backswing is key
4) start with your feet together and knees bent slightly
5) the backswing should be as natural as possible
6) start by moving your hands back and as you are turning your hands the club is lifting up and around your body naturally.
7) To summarize the backswing, three thing are happening simultaneously
a) your hand is slowly turning
b) the club is lifting off the ground
c) your hands are lifting up in a circle


When you do this successfuly you can take the club back as slow as you want and you will return back at the ball without any effort or redirection on your forward swing and make solid contact. After making several solid contact with this backswing, I will begin to take full shots and incorporate this take away into my full swing for my irons, fairway wood and even driver.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


i hit most of them with my pitching wedge, back in my stance, firm left wrist, and the rest is feel.

Colin P.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Been hitting my pitch shots solid now but my misses are pulls due to a yank here and there. Also being aggressive has been leaving me way past the hole at times but I guess I can live with that for the most part.

« Keith »


Been hitting my pitch shots solid now but my misses are pulls due to a yank here and there. Also being aggressive has been leaving me way past the hole at times but I guess I can live with that for the most part.

That's exactly my miss. Left and long. I'd rather fly the green or land it past the hole then miss it short though.


That's exactly my miss. Left and long. I'd rather fly the green or land it past the hole then miss it short though.

If long and left of the green is preferable to just short, that sounds like a sucker pin.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5260 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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