Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5769 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Having read several of the threads concerning used clubs and their value, I'm almost ready to commit. Being 5'7" tall, I need a club with a lie that is about 2 degrees flat. That being said, most of the used clubs that are reasonably good deals are standard lie. Is it a good idea to just buy the standard lie clubs and get them adjusted? Anything I need to consider (heard forged is better for this)? Is the benefit of buying new clubs to get them to the correct lie up front worth the cost?

Lastly, about how much will it cost to adjust the lie of used standard lie clubs?

Posted

I adjusted the lie of my 7 yr old clubs about three weeks ago at GolfSmith. The cost is $4.99 per club. They will have you hit a ball on a lie board and then determine how much adjustment is needed. I am also 5'7" and they adjusted 3* flat for PW-8 and 2* flat for 7-5 and no adjustment for 4-3.

My clubs are forged, they are easy to bend. Hope your clubs are forged to.
Having read several of the threads concerning used clubs and their value, I'm almost ready to commit. Being 5'7" tall, I need a club with a lie that is about 2 degrees flat. That being said, most of the used clubs that are reasonably good deals are standard lie. Is it a good idea to just buy the standard lie clubs and get them adjusted? Anything I need to consider (heard forged is better for this)? Is the benefit of buying new clubs to get them to the correct lie up front worth the cost?


Posted
Lie adjusting is a couple dollars a club. Forged clubs are easier to bend, but a good clubs adjuster should be able to adjust just about any iron 2*. That said, you might want to find someone who could adjust the lie, and then ask them if they could adjust the specific clubs you are looking at.

In my bag:

Driver: Titleist TSi3 | 15º 3-Wood: Ping G410 | 17º 2-Hybrid: Ping G410 | 19º 3-Iron: TaylorMade GAPR Lo |4-PW Irons: Nike VR Pro Combo | 54º SW, 60º LW: Titleist Vokey SM8 | Putter: Odyssey Toulon Las Vegas H7

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5769 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.