Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5762 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Hi all, I need some adivise. My driver is at least 6 years old. Possibly 7, I can't recall. My swing speed calls for a regular flexed shaft and this has stiff. On a good day, I can hit my driver 250 yards total. Therefore I assume longer with the correct shaft. It is in pretty good condition. And I also spent enough money this season already for irons, plus $100 fitting costs, then lessons. I also need a new stand bag too, to use with my push cart. I wrote yesterday about going for a new driver this weekend and driver advise. My question is....... will I gain that much more yardage with a new driver, all the new technology, etc, compared to my current one if I only replace the shaft with a regular flex???

Posted
Go check out your driver speed on a monitor, i would say you'd better play with a regular flex driver shaft if your driver speed is below 95 m/h. Softer flex will add distance. Also the 460 cc driver head will give you a bit larger sweet spot than your current 420 R7. Larger sweet spot will help you hitting a bit more distance and better accuracy.

Driver: Cleveland Launcher 9.5* (UST Proforce V2 65 R)
#3, #5, #7 and #9 Wood: Cleveland Launcher (Cleveland Gold, UST Proforce and Grafalloy ProLaunch regular shaft)
Hybrid irons: 5-6, Adams (Graphite Design YS+ Graphite R)
Irons: 7-PW, Adams Tech OS Hybrid (True Temper GS75 steel R)
Wedges: 52*...


Posted
Hi all, I need some adivise. My driver is at least 6 years old. Possibly 7, I can't recall. My swing speed calls for a regular flexed shaft and this has stiff. On a good day, I can hit my driver 250 yards total. Therefore I assume longer with the correct shaft. It is in pretty good condition. And I also spent enough money this season already for irons, plus $100 fitting costs, then lessons. I also need a new stand bag too, to use with my push cart. I wrote yesterday about going for a new driver this weekend and driver advise. My question is....... will I gain that much more yardage with a new driver, all the new technology, etc, compared to my current one if I only replace the shaft with a regular flex???

Go the shaft route first, or trade it in for what you need. There are a lot of decent drivers at PIAS and places like that with virtually no wear.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
Either option would help your distance a bit and I'm a big fan of the 460 drivers because they're much more forgiving on mis-hit shots but in this case I think it's a matter of how much you want to spend. 250 with a stiff shafted R7 doesn't seem that bad to me so I think I'd go with the reshaft option if for no other reason than because you'll end up getting more bang for the buck. There's also a pretty good chance you'll find someone with a regular flex driver wanting to swap for a stiff flex.
My Implements of Destruction (carried in a Hoofer Lite bag):

DRIVER: Big Bertha Diablo 10 degree draw, Aldila regular flex
FAIRWAY WOODS: G2 14 degree 3 wood & 17 degree 5 wood
IRONS: S59 3-PWWEDGES: M/B 54, 58, & 60 degree PUTTER: I Series Anser 4 (or G5i Anser, Anser 2F, or original...

Posted
You should gain more distance with a regular flex shaft. I switched from a stiff flex driver down to a regular flex and increase my average by about 15-20 yards! They were different drivers and different shafts, though... so it wasnt comparing apples to apples.

I would get go to a Golfsmith or Golf Galaxy and try out some used drivers on a launch monitor. See what kind of numbers you're getting. Often times you can get a "last years model" driver for significantly less than a new model. Or...going used is another option.

I bet, if you dont have to have the "latest and greatest" and don't mind getting a used one that's only a year or so old, you can find yourself a good 460CC driver that fits you well for $100-150.

What I Play:

Driver: R9 460
4 Wood: G15

Hy: Callaway FT 3Hy

Irons: AP1 4-PW

Wedges: Vokey 52* & 60*, Mizuno MP-T 10 58*

Putter: Newport Studio Select 2.7

Ball: Nike One Vapor


Posted
Ok. I took a lesson this weekend. As with the lesson for my irons last week, what an improvement in my ball striking and distance for the cost. $55 - 30 minutes. Anyway, I could not help myself. I just purchased a Ping G10 10.5*, regular flex, from TGW for $179. I figure at my handicap, the difference between 9.5, 10.5 and 11.5 loft won't make an extreme difference in my game. So long as the driver is more forgiving and accurate than my older one. And I've always read good things about this driver. Better than spending $300 plus for a new one, having similar technology. My only concern is the grip size. Obviously it will be a standard grip, where I need 1 size smaller. No big deal, for another $10 or so I can replace it. BUT, will this make a huge difference in my game until I do replace it? Does anyone now how Ping grips run?

Posted
Ok. I took a lesson this weekend. As with the lesson for my irons last week, what an improvement in my ball striking and distance for the cost. $55 - 30 minutes. Anyway, I could not help myself. I just purchased a Ping G10 10.5*, regular flex, from TGW for $179. I figure at my handicap, the difference between 9.5, 10.5 and 11.5 loft won't make an extreme difference in my game. So long as the driver is more forgiving and accurate than my older one. And I've always read good things about this driver. Better than spending $300 plus for a new one, having similar technology. My only concern is the grip size. Obviously it will be a standard grip, where I need 1 size smaller. No big deal, for another $10 or so I can replace it. BUT, will this make a huge difference in my game until I do replace it? Does anyone now how Ping grips run?

Put your favourite driver grip on it. PING stock grips suck - hard!

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5762 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.