Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5503 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
blades , only if your good enough and don't have to rely on peremeter weighting to launch the ball of the toe / heel.

always give way to the Greenskeeper!!

in my bag:
whatever clubs i find left behind on the course... But the Ping Anser will never be beaten!!


BALL: only get off tractor for PRO v1's..... Now, which way to Q School???


  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
K.J. Choi must be pretty rubbish then, eh?

no he is a champion player in case you didn't know.

always give way to the Greenskeeper!!

in my bag:
whatever clubs i find left behind on the course... But the Ping Anser will never be beaten!!


BALL: only get off tractor for PRO v1's..... Now, which way to Q School???


Posted
I never thought that I could hit blades but the mp33 are easy to hit, I sometime hit thin shots but the irons are so soft that my hands do not hurt or stink. Unless you try hitting blades at least once it all only cheap talk.

I recently started blading my wedges off the green with great results and many feedback that I received were, I only use my putter from off the fringe, why blade a wedge, but unless you try it and play around with this shot you will never know the benefit and the ease of executing this shot unless you don't try it at least once.

This also is for the golfers who never tried hitting a blade and say that pros use cavities why should I hit a blade and make the game more difficult. Unless you try hitting a blade for yourself you may not see the benefit of playing blades.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
[, but unless you try it and play around with this shot you will never know the benefit and the ease of executing this shot unless you don't try it at least once.

This also is for the golfers who never tried hitting a blade and say that pros use cavities why should I hit a blade and make the game more difficult. Unless you try hitting a blade for yourself you may not see the benefit of playing blades.[/QUOTE]

i agree, you must try...
one of the other main benefit of a blade is feel. 3/4 hits with higher irons make for much better length acuracy with a blade...

always give way to the Greenskeeper!!

in my bag:
whatever clubs i find left behind on the course... But the Ping Anser will never be beaten!!


BALL: only get off tractor for PRO v1's..... Now, which way to Q School???


Posted
I would love to try to hit blades, just two things hold me back. Almost all the used blades come in a stiff shaft and my swing speed isn't enough to play with a stiff shaft. (Keep the jokes to minimum please) The second is after talking my wife into letting me get my Callaway x 22 tour irons 3 months ago it will be to frosty if I were to spend money on new irons. Especially since I need new woods and wedges so I'll be happy with my irons and live with the accuracy issue.

Though I am a bit envious of those of you who can play blades. Good luck to you all no matter what you play.

Posted
they are cavity backs. forged/cast has nothnign to do with whether its a blade or a cavity back. The Ping S59's are cavity backs because they have a cavity on the back of the club. A blade would be like a Mizuno MP-33 which has no cavity at all. golfro

Show me the cavity... I don't think that little 1/16" dip counts. There is a cavity that's filled up by the black plastic but usually cavity backs don't have the cavity filled up, right? This looks more like a muscle back iron. And I know you can have forged cavity backs and cast blades.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...


Posted
the cavity is right where it says USA and Ping

I'd say that plastic insert also qualifies as a cavity.

Yonex Ezone Type 380 | Tour Edge Exotics CB Pro | Miura 1957 Irons | Yururi Wedges | Scotty Cameron Super Rat | TaylorMade Penta


Posted
Those might not be full cavities but they are not blades either.
Driver: taylormade.gif R9 Superdeep TP 8.5* - Aldila RIP 70x | 3-Wood: taylormade.gif R9 TP 15* - Diamana Blueboard 83x | Hybrid: taylormade.gif Rescue TP 19* - Motore F3 95x | Irons: taylormade.gif RAC TP MB 3-PW - Dynamic Gold x100 | Wedges: taylormade.gif TP xFT 54.12* and 60.10* - Dynamic Gold s400 | Putter:  ping.gif Karsten Anser - 33"

Posted
Those might not be full cavities but they are not blades either.

They're Flades.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I just sold my Ping G2s and bought a set of S59 blades. I'm looking forward to playing a round with them later this week to see how they work out for me. I already like the way they look at address, and I'm thinking that alone is going to give me a psychological edge.
My Implements of Destruction (carried in a Hoofer Lite bag):

DRIVER: Big Bertha Diablo 10 degree draw, Aldila regular flex
FAIRWAY WOODS: G2 14 degree 3 wood & 17 degree 5 wood
IRONS: S59 3-PWWEDGES: M/B 54, 58, & 60 degree PUTTER: I Series Anser 4 (or G5i Anser, Anser 2F, or original...

Posted
good morning

i play blades and have done for the past 5 years i use titleist 690 mb which have been delofted 1 degree on each iron

i dont think i would change back from blades now but you do have to keep up the practice time on the range with them to get the best out them....

Posted
Hi

Well recently got rid of my X-16's and got some Callaway X-forged irons and wedges to match, having not played blades for 20 years i looked around and was surprised what was available for LH's, had a fitting at Callaway in Surrey, but bought my irons from the USA, saved £200 even after carriage and customs duty. Gotta say i am so happy with the irons, they do have some muscle on the back but they look so good and you know you are looking at a blade when the 3 iron looks the same size as the ball at address.

Regarding the Ping S59, sorry but cant really call that a true blade as it is a cast head made to look like a blade as per ping, think they are bringing out their first true "forged" irons this year which will be worth looking at :)

Speedline 10 with Harrison Saga
X Tour fairways 3 & 5 Fujikura tour platform 26.3
X Forged 3-PW Project X 6.0 rifles
X Forged 56-14 and 60-10 wedges
2 ball blade Tour is balls


Posted
Hi

forged and cast have nothing to do with blades. X-forged is also not a blade. They're both cavity backs with a thin topline/sole profile.

eitehr way, congrats on the X-forged purchase. They're absolutely great irons!

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco


Posted
Ok ok, just having a little pop at ping and got found out by a superior intelligence :), I know the X-forged are not "true" blades but i dont think i play enough anymore to use a true muscleback blade.

My only concern with the X-forged is my lack of confidence with the 3 and 4 irons, for the first time in my golfing life i am considering going hybrids :(

Speedline 10 with Harrison Saga
X Tour fairways 3 & 5 Fujikura tour platform 26.3
X Forged 3-PW Project X 6.0 rifles
X Forged 56-14 and 60-10 wedges
2 ball blade Tour is balls


Posted
Just practice with a 2i or even old 1i and the 3i and 4i will be as easy as your 8 iron .......

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter


Note: This thread is 5503 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 470 - 2026-01-13 Got some work in while some players were using the sim, so I had to stick around. 🙂 Good thing too, since… I hadn't yet practiced today until about 6:45 tonight. 😛 
    • That's not quite the same thing as what some people messaged me today.
    • Day 152 1-12 More reps bowing wrists in downswing. Still pausing at the top. Making sure to get to lead side and getting the ball to go left. Slow progress is better than no progress.  
    • Yea, if I were to make a post arguing against the heat map concept, citing some recent robot testing would be my first point. The heat map concept is what I find interesting, more on that below. The robot testing I have looked at, including the one you linked, do discreet point testing then provide that discrete data in various forms. Which as you said is old as the hills, if you know of any other heat map concept type testing, I would be interested in links to that though! No, and I did say in my first post "if this heat map data is valid and reliable" meaning I have my reservations as well. Heck beyond reservations. I have some fairly strong suspicions there are flaws. But all I have are hunches and guesses, if anyone has data to share, I would be interested to see it.  My background is I quit golfing about 9 years ago and have been toying with the idea of returning. So far that has been limited to a dozen range sessions in late Summer through Fall when the range closed. Then primarily hitting foam balls indoors using a swing speed monitor as feedback. Between the range closing and the snow flying I did buy an R10 and hit a few balls into a backyard net. The heat map concept is a graphical representation of efficiency (smash factor) loss mapped onto the face of the club. As I understand it to make the representation agnostic to swing speed or other golfer specific swing characteristics. It is more a graphical tool not a data tool. The areas are labeled numerically in discrete 1% increments while the raw data is changing at ~0.0017%/mm and these changes are represented as subtle changes in color across those discrete areas. The only data we care about in terms of the heat map is the 1.3 to 1.24 SF loss and where was the strike location on the face - 16mm heal and 5mm low. From the video the SF loss is 4.6% looking up 16mm heal and 5mm low on the heat map it is on the edge of where the map changes from 3% loss to 4%. For that data point in the video, 16mm heal, 5mm low, 71.3 mph swing speed (reference was 71.4 mph), the distance loss was 7.2% or 9 yards, 125 reference distance down to 116. However, distance loss is not part of a heat map discussion. Distance loss will be specific to the golfers swing characteristics not the club. What I was trying to convey was that I do not have enough information to determine good or bad. Are the two systems referencing strike location the same? How accurate are the two systems in measuring even if they are referencing from the same location? What variation might have been introduced by the club delivery on the shot I picked vs the reference set of shots? However, based on the data I do have and making some assumptions and guesses the results seem ok, within reason, a good place to start from and possibly refine. I do not see what is wrong with 70mph 7 iron, although that is one of my other areas of questioning. The title of the video has slow swing speed in all caps, and it seems like the videos I watch define 7i slow, medium, and fast as 70, 80, and 90. The whole question of mid iron swing speed and the implications for a players game and equipment choices is of interest to me as (according to my swing speed meter) over my ~decade break I lost 30mph swing speed on mine.
    • Maxfli, Maltby, Golfworks, all under the Dicks/Golf Galaxy umbrella... it's all a bit confounding. Looking at the pictures, they all look very, very similar in their design. I suspect they're the same club, manufactured in the same factory in China, just with different badging.  The whacky pricing structure has soured me, so I'll just cool my heels a bit. The new Mizuno's will be available to test very soon. I'm in no rush.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.