Can somebody explain?

[gfd66]

I just don't really get it. What is the difference between woods that are "set up" with a draw / neutral, etc. I'm looking to upgrade my old driver and fairway woods and when I bought my last set (many years ago) this didn't exist.

[inthecup]

If you are a righty a draw biased club face will be slightly closed (facing left) at address, neutral will be " straight" and fade will be open (facing right).

The adjustable clubs make it easier because you do not have to make a choice.  Go to the store and hold a neutral and draw club of the same make next to each other and it will be obvious.

[gfd66]

OK, so one can perform the same trick by adjusting one's grip. Why would someone purposely buy x,y or z? Is it just a form of swing correction without actually correcting the swing? If you fade or slice, buy the draw? Etc.?

[inthehole]

Originally Posted by gfd66

OK, so one can perform the same trick by adjusting one's grip. Why would someone purposely buy x,y or z? Is it just a form of swing correction without actually correcting the swing? If you fade or slice, buy the draw? Etc.?

A slice isn't an easy thing to correct (S&T did it for me).     Buying a driver that will minimize it, makes sense to alot of people - just sayin'.

[rustyredcab]

If you are going to keep your current swing, you can get a club that compensates for whatever you want in your ball flight. If you are a 22 handicap, and have not been playing for 40 years (like my Dad), I'd suggest getting a neutral setup and learn to change  your swing to hit it straight. The choice is to either fit the swing you have or fit the swing you are striving to attain.

Some woods' bias is very small. A straight ball becomes a slight draw or fade. A fade becomes straight... Some are pretty big and are trying to fix a big slice into a straight ball.

Years ago, different clubs did have a bias but were not listed that way. Often Game Improvement clubs were set up closed (draw bias). Players clubs were often set up a bit open (fade bias).

[inthecup]

Originally Posted by rustyredcab

If you are going to keep your current swing, you can get a club that compensates for whatever you want in your ball flight. If you are a 22 handicap, and have not been playing for 40 years (like my Dad), I'd suggest getting a neutral setup and learn to change  your swing to hit it straight. The choice is to either fit the swing you have or fit the swing you are striving to attain.

Some woods' bias is very small. A straight ball becomes a slight draw or fade. A fade becomes straight... Some are pretty big and are trying to fix a big slice into a straight ball.

Years ago, different clubs did have a bias but were not listed that way. Often Game Improvement clubs were set up closed (draw bias). Players clubs were often set up a bit open (fade bias).

I agree with Rusty, some people play a few times a year and their life mission is not to hit a draw with the driver.  In that case the biased club can help the game be more enjoyable.

I always get a neutral club and try and play it right.  I recently got fit for a new driver and its neutral spec is .05 degrees closed.

[LankyLefty]

I have one "draw bias" club and I must say though the reason I bought it was purely price, It does seem to help. Its slight but noticeable.

[rustyredcab]

I THINK the issue with just adjusting your grip is that you then change the loft -- close the face means less loft and open face is more loft. Your 10.5* driver just became a 9* driver when you close the face. So, you could buy a club with more loft than you want and close the face. Or you can buy a club that is biased closed with the loft you want. You are correct that is a bit of marketing and positioning in many cases.

[Aleks7243]

For the improving golfer, the better option by far is to get a neutral-bias club (or a least one with adjustability) and work on changing the swing to hit it straight.

For the 'seasoned' golfer that has established a swing and doesn't really want to change it, draw or fade-bias clubs can be a good idea, depending on the golfer's natural shot shape. If you tend to hit it straight, I wouldn't bother as a biased club could induce a hook/slice. But for someone who has a distance and direction sapping fade/slice, a draw-bias club is probably a good idea. Usually fade-bias clubs are only required by better players (eg. 8 handicap and below) as they are more workable.

:D

[gfd66]

OK, so we have the "bias" figured out. So if I may ask, what do you have in your bag and are you happy? I am currently running a Big Bertha 460 "neutral" at 10*. I've been hitting the ball REALLY high and losing distance (roll). Thought it was just my tee height, tried several differing heights and pretty much always ended up with the same result. I was thinking about possibly an 8 1/2* or 9*.

[JasonFL]

I would look at changing the shaft before you go and buy a club with a lower loft.  The 10 will be more accurate (theoretically) and the lower loft doesnt always equate to a lower ball flight (especially if the shaft and/or launch angle are off).

[Precis1on]

Go hit on a launch monitor with your old driver and see what you get. Hit a different driver/shaft combo and see if your results are better.

[sean_miller]

Draw and fade bias involves weighting as well. Some clubs just tend to sit closed or open and feel awkward in a neutral address position. Others tend to close easier or stay open during the swing. Just my experience. I use a Mizuno MP600 with adjustable weights.