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Posted

I'm looking at scheduling a private lesson with the only aimpoint instructor in the area and I was hoping some of you veterans could answer some questions for me:

What should be the standard takeaway package with any introductory aimpoint lesson?  Do the charts come with it?

Are there different versions of the aimpoint charts?  I read Richie3Jacks blog and he mentioned basic vs. pro..

Can I buy planar charts and play around with them to get a feel for using them before taking the private lesson?

What do you think of the ipod app?  Does it have all of the charts included, assuming my previous Q about basic vs. pro is correct?

What is a "saddle"?  Is it a rounded trench or an inverse crown (bowl)?

Can you have a long anchor point if the low point is also flat?

[ Equipment ]
R11 9° (Lowered to 8.5°) UST Proforce VTS 7x tipped 1" | 906F2 15° and 18° | 585H 21° | Mizuno MP-67 +1 length TT DG X100 | Vokey 52° Oil Can, Cleveland CG10 2-dot 56° and 60° | TM Rossa Corza Ghost 35.5" | Srixon Z Star XV | Size 14 Footjoy Green Joys | Tour Striker Pro 5, 7, 56 | Swingwing


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Posted

Originally Posted by bunkerputt

What should be the standard takeaway package with any introductory aimpoint lesson?  Do the charts come with it?

Are there different versions of the aimpoint charts?  I read Richie3Jacks blog and he mentioned basic vs. pro..

You can't buy the charts beforehand, and that's fine, because you won't really know what to do with them. The only difference in "Basic" vs. "Pro" is how the information is laid out. One puts all four charts (one chart per half circle) on one page, the other puts them on two pages (one chart per circle).

You should also get a PDF. But I'm assuming you're doing the full 2-2.5 hour "Fundamentals" class.

Originally Posted by bunkerputt

What do you think of the ipod app?  Does it have all of the charts included, assuming my previous Q about basic vs. pro is correct?

What is a "saddle"?  Is it a rounded trench or an inverse crown (bowl)?

Can you have a long anchor point if the low point is also flat?

I bought the app but I'm an instructor. I typically recommend you save your $30. You can't use the app on the course and it's slower than using the charts.

Greens aren't flat. Kinda defeats the main reason.

You can get into the other stuff with your instructor. I really wouldn't "pre-think" about it too much. The best thing you can do going in is work on your distance control and hitting your line.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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Posted

After I took the 1st level class, I took pictures of the chart on my smartphone and left it there for good. That's all I ever needed.

I'll get the iPhone app if it goes on sale for $5 or so but I doubt that will happen.

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted

I took the fundamentals class before all the changes you mention so I can't make any suggestions there unfortunately. I assume as per iacas's description above that "Pro" is the multiple charts on one page and "basic" one chart per page. I refuse to buy the app firstly on the price of it and secondly because you are given charts that are legal in play when you do a class whereas the app is illegal in tournament play.

Before you take a class work on two things:

  1. Putting the ball on your intended line each and every time (find a flat, level putt and keep hitting balls until they almost always go in)
  2. Getting your pace right (put a CD or somesuch down on the ground on a level and flat surface and putt so that the ball dies 6-12 inches past the CD on as many putts as possible)

With those two things down you'll be in an excellent place to maximise on the clinic and get the most out of it. You'll also be in more wonderment than if you occasionally push putts, sometimes pull them and randomly leave them long/short.

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Posted


Originally Posted by MiniBlueDragon

Before you take a class work on two things:

Putting the ball on your intended line each and every time (find a flat, level putt and keep hitting balls until they almost always go in)

Getting your pace right (put a CD or somesuch down on the ground on a level and flat surface and putt so that the ball dies 6-12 inches past the CD on as many putts as possible)

With those two things down you'll be in an excellent place to maximise on the clinic and get the most out of it. You'll also be in more wonderment than if you occasionally push putts, sometimes pull them and randomly leave them long/short.



Thanks guys.  I just found out about Aimpoint and I'm expecting it to be a breath of fresh air.  Since I first started playing 5 years ago, my putting strategy has always been to build solid alignments and stroke so that I can hit pretty much anything I'm aiming at, then just work on speed.  Consequently, I'm really good on perfectly flat surfaces (like in my house :)....  I figured if I just practiced making lots of straight putts and then worked on speed and spot putting, I could just pick a spot past the hole when I play on actual greens and pretend it's straight, make a straight stroke and do pretty well.  What I've found happens quite a bit is your conscious read and unconscious read tend to fight each other if they're not in sync.  The result is your stroke can break down and you push or pull them to get them on the right line.  So I'm basically at a point where I need a green reading system to apply that straight rolling stroke to.  I'm a little under the weather right now, so I'm not sure if it will be this week, but I'll post back and let you know how it went.

[ Equipment ]
R11 9° (Lowered to 8.5°) UST Proforce VTS 7x tipped 1" | 906F2 15° and 18° | 585H 21° | Mizuno MP-67 +1 length TT DG X100 | Vokey 52° Oil Can, Cleveland CG10 2-dot 56° and 60° | TM Rossa Corza Ghost 35.5" | Srixon Z Star XV | Size 14 Footjoy Green Joys | Tour Striker Pro 5, 7, 56 | Swingwing


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