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Posted

I want to try to get a little more back spin around the greens.  I have been looking at the new 56 degree wedge, clevland 588 forged.  what about yall and what do yall recomend?


Posted

What wedge do you currently play and what kind of spin do you get now? Generally the type of wedge will make little difference in the amount spin unless you asking old grooves vs new grooves.

Driver: i15, 3 wood: G10, Hybrid: Nickent 4dx, Irons: Ping s57, Wedges: Mizuno MPT 52, 56, 60, Putter: XG #9 

Posted

Mizuno MP T-12.  Theyre amazing wedges and even out of the rough I have no issues with being able to stop the ball on the green.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted

I hate to be that guy... but you have to give the Titleist Spin-Milled Vokeys a try. Just a suggestion.

Mitch Wayne

 

 RBZ 9.5* or  910 D2 9.5* |  910F 15* Fairway Wood |  910H 19* Hybrid titleist.gif 710 CB 4-9 Irons | vokey.gif Wedges (48,52,56,60) |  California Monterey 2012 or  Studio Newport 2 |  Pro V1 Golf Ball |


Posted

The most important thing to getting the ball to spin is how you make contact with the ball.  Mizuno, Titleist, Cleveland, Ping, Callaway... you can do it with all of them.  The ball you use can make a difference too of course.  I would suggest getting to a pro shop with an outdoor range/chipping area and hit them all.  Then narrow it down to what you feel the most comfortable with.

Personally, I play Cleveland wedges.  I got a good deal on them back in the day and I've become accustomed to them.  Come 2014 (for amatuers) when I need to get new ones to conform to the groove rules, I will likely get the 588s (tried them out at my local pro shop and they are great).

That's my two cents


Posted

Well for back spin I play Reid Lockhart dual bounce wedges. The spin milled cast models. They can be ball shredders but for back spin and shot making they have worked fine for me. I would rather have my spin milled clubs be cast vs forged. The softer forged face seems to loss the sharpness of the milling rather quickly. Unlike the pro I can not afford switching wedges every month or so.

9* Geek No Brainer with red Stiff Gallofory shaft
15* R5 3 wood with Burner shaft
21* 24* Nike CPR hybrid Aldila by you shaft
5-pw Titleist 680 cb irons-SK Fiber graphite shafts
52*, 56*,60* Reid Lockhart Dual Bounce spinner shaftScotty Cameron Newport MidSlant with Tiger Shark GripTM LDP Red balls---used because I'm...


Posted


Originally Posted by danieldrieberg

I would rather have my spin milled clubs be cast vs forged. The softer forged face seems to loss the sharpness of the milling rather quickly. Unlike the pro I can not afford switching wedges every month or so.

*sigh* Once again, forged is not what makes it soft.  Carbon steel is what makes it soft.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted

Wishon  715 CLC-AXE5 A shaft -hard steppedt -44.5"
4 wood-Infiniti 17*-UST IROD A shaft-Hard stepped(2009 model)
Hybrids 19* & 24*-Trident DSW-UST IROD Hybrid A shaft-hard stepped (2009 model)
Irons-5-PW- Wilson Staff Progressive Forged-TT Release  sensicore( 5&6-Soft stepped R-7,8&9-R-wedge hard stepped R
Wedges-52*-Wilson JP BeCE(54* bent to 52*)-TT-Release sensicore-hard stepped R

              56*Wilson R-61 BECU Sandy Andy- Release sensicore tipped same as 8 iron

               60* Wilson Harmonized BECU-Release sensicore tipped same as 8 iron

Woods- Star Grips  Irons Energy Grips

:Putter-Rife IBF with Ping Blackout Grip-35"

Ball-Wilson Staff Zip Golf. or C-25


Posted


Originally Posted by TitleistWI

*sigh* Once again, forged is not what makes it soft.  Carbon steel is what makes it soft.

You are guilty of spreading misinformation. You have got to stop doing it. People like you are the reason why so many beginners think forged = good and cast = bad.

And, you have the hide to condescendingly "sigh" as if you are politley waiting for another poster to catch on. YOU ARE WRONG.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 


Posted

Originally Posted by Shorty

You are guilty of spreading misinformation. You have got to stop doing it. People like you are the reason why so many beginners think forged = good and cast = bad.

And, you have the hide to condescendingly "sigh" as if you are politley waiting for another poster to catch on. YOU ARE WRONG.


I was under the impression that forged clubs were made with softer steels and that is why they are easier to bend lofts and lies, no?  I think that was all he was saying, that physically they are softer material, which certainly wouldn't lead me to the conclusion that cast=bad.

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Posted


Originally Posted by Shorty

You are guilty of spreading misinformation. You have got to stop doing it. People like you are the reason why so many beginners think forged = good and cast = bad.

And, you have the hide to condescendingly "sigh" as if you are politley waiting for another poster to catch on. YOU ARE WRONG.



Oh, I get it ... this response was to a compilation of his posts form this, and the "forged irons" thread.  My comment defending him was only in relation to the one comment I quoted.

For the record, I have, unfortunately for me, never hit a forged iron, so I have no idea.  Your info seems reasonable to me though, and I would imagine that people think the better feel is a result of the manufacturing process, when in actuality its the quality of the club.  Guess I need to go test some new clubs and find out for myself!

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Posted


Originally Posted by Golfingdad

Oh, I get it ... this response was to a compilation of his posts form this, and the "forged irons" thread.  My comment defending him was only in relation to the one comment I quoted.

Correct.

The softness makes sense if you need to adjust lofts and lies.

As for the "forged" v "cast" BS, Titleist Vokey wedges are amongst the most played wedges on tour, and number 1 in wins, according to their marketing, and presumably Darrell Survey reports

They are cast. That should be the end of the story.

I would bet that they could make more money by introducing a "forged" line too cater to the sheep who believe the BS, but maybe they don't want to be tarrec with the same brush.

As I've mentioned elsewhere - I've played them all (Mizuno, Cleveland, Vokey, Callaway, Nike) and never really used a wedge I hated. I am currently using a Callaway forged. I like it because I like it. Not because it is forged.

The idea of a steel golf club hitting a very soft golf ball and feeling "soft"is ludicrous if you think about it for more than 3 seconds.

Imagine hitting a golf ball with a forged hammer and an identical  cast hammer, and claiming to be able to discern a difference. It would be idiotic.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 


Posted

Originally Posted by Shorty

I am currently using a Callaway forged. I like it because I like it. Not because it is forged.


And I have older Clevelands (the RTG 588's) and love em.  Hoenstly, I have no idea if they are forged or not ... don't really care.

Perhaps the forged iron players who insist that they feel softer are muscleback or blade players, and what they are actually comparing is the larger difference in feel between solid hits and misses than the more forgiving (and usually cast) clubs have.  The bad shots feel so bad and vibrate so much, that it makes the good shots seem extra soft.

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Posted


Originally Posted by Golfingdad

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shorty

I am currently using a Callaway forged. I like it because I like it. Not because it is forged.

And I have older Clevelands (the RTG 588's) and love em.  Hoenstly, I have no idea if they are forged or not ... don't really care.

Perhaps the forged iron players who insist that they feel softer are muscleback or blade players, and what they are actually comparing is the larger difference in feel between solid hits and misses than the more forgiving (and usually cast) clubs have.  The bad shots feel so bad and vibrate so much, that it makes the good shots seem extra soft.



They're cast and they rock. Hang on to them.l

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted


Originally Posted by jnew47

I want to try to get a little more back spin around the greens.  I have been looking at the new 56 degree wedge, clevland 588 forged.  what about yall and what do yall recomend?



Wow ^^^ (posts above).

Cleveland forged 588 look good. These days, they all spin well. Select a wedge that looks good to your eye and has sufficient bounce to work for your swing. If you like to get creative, a lot of people like the Vokeys in the highest lofts (58-60) because of the amount of heel, toe and trailing edge relief. Being creative, I say creativity is overrated for most of us. You don't have to open up your high lofted wedge on every shot - so I'd say get enough bounce with a bit of relief, but nothing radical for the 58-60. Enjoy.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Posted


Originally Posted by Golfingdad

I was under the impression that forged clubs were made with softer steels and that is why they are easier to bend lofts and lies, no?  I think that was all he was saying, that physically they are softer material, which certainly wouldn't lead me to the conclusion that cast=bad.



Thats exactly what I was saying.  Softness comes from the metal that is used, not the process which is used to form the metal.  At no point have I ever said that cast is bad.  Different, yes.  Bad, no.  The 2 process are very different but to say that one is good and the other is bad is a very narrow-minded way of thinking.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted


Originally Posted by Shorty

Correct.

The softness makes sense if you need to adjust lofts and lies.

As for the "forged" v "cast" BS, Titleist Vokey wedges are amongst the most played wedges on tour, and number 1 in wins, according to their marketing, and presumably Darrell Survey reports

They are cast. That should be the end of the story.

I would bet that they could make more money by introducing a "forged" line too cater to the sheep who believe the BS, but maybe they don't want to be tarrec with the same brush.

As I've mentioned elsewhere - I've played them all (Mizuno, Cleveland, Vokey, Callaway, Nike) and never really used a wedge I hated. I am currently using a Callaway forged. I like it because I like it. Not because it is forged.

The idea of a steel golf club hitting a very soft golf ball and feeling "soft"is ludicrous if you think about it for more than 3 seconds.

Imagine hitting a golf ball with a forged hammer and an identical  cast hammer, and claiming to be able to discern a difference. It would be idiotic.


Actually, Bob Vokey chooses to cast his wedges because its a much cheaper manufacturing process.  The wedges that he sells in Japan are forged because people in Japan have no interest in cast clubs.

As for the whole cast vs forged think, it comes down to 2 very simple things: air pockets and metal density.  Forging eliminates the air pockets that are in cast metals and it packed the molecules more tightly together because the metal is pounded into shape instead of merely being poured into a mold.

A simple demonstration of this would be to take a small trash can and then crumple up a dozen or so sheets of paper.  Now, drop those sheets of paper into the trash can.  Notice the air pockets and the irregular shapes?  Now, do the same thing but pack the crumpled up piece of paper into the can.  Notice the lack of spaces between the paper and how uniform the shapes are?  Its the same with forming metal.  I find it actually laughable that is ever other field where metal parts are used (automobiles, motorcycles, trains) forged parts are always considered to be of highly quality, high durability, more precise and just overall better than their forged counterparts but somehow in golf people have been convinced that forged and cast is the same.  They are not the same and never will be.

Thats not to say that cast is bad.  Cast has its advantages, especially in clubs that you want more distance or more forgiveness with because you can make them more springy (because you can cast metal much thinner than you can forge it) and because you can make a much deeper cavity with a casting than you can a forging.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


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Posted

Originally Posted by TitleistWI

Actually, Bob Vokey chooses to cast his wedges because its a much cheaper manufacturing process.  The wedges that he sells in Japan are forged because people in Japan have no interest in cast clubs.

As for the whole cast vs forged think, it comes down to 2 very simple things: air pockets and metal density.  Forging eliminates the air pockets that are in cast metals and it packed the molecules more tightly together because the metal is pounded into shape instead of merely being poured into a mold.

A simple demonstration of this would be to take a small trash can and then crumple up a dozen or so sheets of paper.  Now, drop those sheets of paper into the trash can.  Notice the air pockets and the irregular shapes?  Now, do the same thing but pack the crumpled up piece of paper into the can.  Notice the lack of spaces between the paper and how uniform the shapes are?  Its the same with forming metal.  I find it actually laughable that is ever other field where metal parts are used (automobiles, motorcycles, trains) forged parts are always considered to be of highly quality, high durability, more precise and just overall better than their forged counterparts but somehow in golf people have been convinced that forged and cast is the same.  They are not the same and never will be.

Thats not to say that cast is bad.  Cast has its advantages, especially in clubs that you want more distance or more forgiveness with because you can make them more springy (because you can cast metal much thinner than you can forge it) and because you can make a much deeper cavity with a casting than you can a forging.


In other words, you completely believe everything Mizuno tells you. :-) Air pockets, etc. etc.

And you can forge metals just as thin as you can cast them, perhaps even thinner. Hammer on a metal long enough and you can get it down pretty thin.

Really not the point though. Vokey's wedges are cast because they're easier and faster, and the point others were making is simply this: if a cast Vokey is good enough for a PGA Tour pro, it's good enough for the average golfer.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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